Catteleya Hybrid dropping green leaves, is this normal? - Orchid Board

wilson79 · #1 06-30-2012, 11:29 PM

(Aloha Case x Hunting Island) "Hawaii"

I've had this plant for a few months now and it had one big beautiful fragrant flower when I purchased it. It has been doing well even since the flower wilted, but recently has lost 2 leaves. They were fully green when they dropped from the plant. A few weeks back I moved the plant up in the pot because I was worried that the roots were not drying enough in between watering. It is potted in miracle gro orchid mix, which I know isnt great, but was all ive been able to find so far in my town. I generally mist the plant every other day and have it sitting on an improvised humidity tray. It is inside and gets indirect sunlight during the day. Any ideas?

Wynn Dee13 · #2 07-01-2012, 12:52 AM

Older pbulbs do drop their leaves at some point but usually turn yellow first. I think you REALLY need to get that plant out of that Miricle mix. This mix kills Phals and Catts like to dry out more than Phals. It would even be better to mount that plant if you can't find any medium. Or even hang it bare root in a humid area and water it a few times a day until you find something better. Do you have a Lowes near by? They sell a bark mix that is called Better-Gro Special Orchid mix. I have used it for some of my Catts and it's not a bad mix for being sold in a big box store. It is a mix of fir bark, charcoal and perlite. I just bought a new bag and it was $6. Some Home Depot stores carry it too but where I live I can only find it at Lowes. Otherwise I would buy some new medium online. That Miricle grow mix is too soil like and it is probably keeping your plant too wet and it is suffocating your plant. I think that is why it is dropping green leaves. So get it out of that mix! Good luck!

silken · #3 07-01-2012, 01:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wynn Dee13

Older pbulbs do drop their leaves at some point but usually turn yellow first. I think you REALLY need to get that plant out of that Miricle mix. This mix kills Phals and Catts like to dry out more than Phals. It would even be better to mount that plant if you can't find any medium. Or even hang it bare root in a humid area and water it a few times a day until you find something better. Do you have a Lowes near by? They sell a bark mix that is called Better-Gro Special Orchid mix. I have used it for some of my Catts and it's not a bad mix for being sold in a big box store. It is a mix of fir bark, charcoal and perlite. I just bought a new bag and it was $6. Some Home Depot stores carry it too but where I live I can only find it at Lowes. Otherwise I would buy some new medium online. That Miricle grow mix is too soil like and it is probably keeping your plant too wet and it is suffocating your plant. I think that is why it is dropping green leaves. So get it out of that mix! Good luck!

My thoughts exactly. I grow all my Catts in med. bark with nothing else mixed in. They really need to dry out between watering. The roots on top in your picture look all dry and dessicated, but I would check the roots in the media as they are possibly rotting. It is not normal for green leaves to just drop off. Have you checked for things like spider mite? They are very hard to see but are usually found on the undersides of the leaves and have very fine webbing. If you wipe the leaf with a Kleenex you would see a red smear or fine red dots. Just a thought regarding green leaves dropping.

Otherwise I would check the roots. Often if there is no obvious cause it is a time to check for root problem. If you can't find bark in your town, you can order online from places like Quartre Acre Orchids, or Repotme.com. If you check the roots, post a picture so we can have a look.

Bud · #4 07-01-2012, 01:20 AM

You have four mature bulbs that have bloomed before and a new bulb is growing that I think will also give you another flower....
I see that your have dehydrated bulbs that shed its leaves but what is strange is: you said it was still green when it shed; and yet the bulbs are wrinkly and tiny....
heed the two ladies advice and repot.
add also these factors: the humidity, temperature and air flow of your environment that is affecting your plants that is important for the necessary culture in your grow zone

Leafmite · #5 07-01-2012, 01:25 AM

I live in an area that is deprived of good mediums and so I now grow mounted (I buy cork bark at a petstore) or in lava rock (there are other types of rock that will also work). With rock, it is important to stake the orchid until the roots hold the orchid firmly in place. Good luck.

Mira-Claude · #6 07-01-2012, 01:57 AM

I too would unpot the cattleya to ascertain the state of the roots. They look a little dehydrated.
A botanist told me that the best way to make sure the roots are healthy is to soak the plant for fifteen minutes and then lightly press on them. If they are firm, what ever the color, they are fine. If they are mushy it is best to cut them off. If you lightly pull on them and the cover of the roots comes easily it's fine, just keep pulling but leave the little cord inside be. I am uncertain about the fact, but some people says it can still absorb some liquid.
As for potting media, you would be surprised what you can find in a petshop. There is mounts, coco husk chunks, sometimes bark too.
In this case I would go with mounting as cattleyas do like to dry out. Just make sure to water her once a day and spray her early evening if it gets really dry and hot.
Good luck!

wilson79 · #7 07-01-2012, 02:24 AM

Thank you all for the advice! I will get a picture up of the roots tomorrow if I can find the time. To my beginners eye they seemed to be in bad shape, which is why i've been letting it get a little dry. Is there any solid reference or guide to what roots should be cut and what should be left? I dont want to ruin it by being too aggressive.

Good tip on petstores by the way, I wouldnt have thought of that! I'll be checking that out as ASAP.

silken · #8 07-01-2012, 02:27 AM

If the roots are soft and mushy, they should be cut up to where they are firm. If they are totally hollow and the outer cover just slides off, those are dead too. As Mira-Claude mentioned, it doesn't hurt to leave the inner string behind and they help anchor the plant. Anything firm even if it is brown should stay. sometimes they can get stained brown from the bark or what they are growing in.

wilson79 · #9 07-01-2012, 02:29 AM

Also, any good guides/advice on mounting a Cattleya type of this size in case I find a good mount? I've never tried before, but I've seen them grown this way.

Mira-Claude · #10 07-01-2012, 05:48 AM

I like to mount my orchids. A lot!
What I do is first choose a mount.
If you want something water retentive (if you have low humidity problem or in case of orchids that needs more water) a tree fern mount or a coconut cover is good.
For less humidity you can simply take a tree branch and boil it for fifteen minutes to sterilize it.
The less humidity retentive material would be the cork mount. It's what I use the most for my cattleyas.
Otherwise, and I have to admit that I don't talk from personal knowledge, but a friend from the orchid society I participate in take terra cotta pots with no holes, he mounts the orchid on the outside of the pot and just fills the pot with water when the level gets low. He says he sprays the orchids once a week in the case of cattleyas and that they are doing amazingly well. I want to try it, but I have never done it.
As for attaching the plant to the mount I simply use whatever fine rope I have that will not degrade nor absorb water. My favorite is the dental floss, but fishing lines, fine metal lines and many more can be used too. You can take the rope off once your orchid will have bounded to her mount.
If you have sphagnum moss it is always good to put a little between the orchid and the mount. If you don't have any it's fine, just remember that a little spray at the root will be more important in order to make sure the plant will no dehydrate.
If you have anymore questions don't hesitate.