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  #11  
Old 06-24-2012, 01:29 PM
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The coolest plants I recommended were the Cyps. Cyps are meant for outdoors growing. They can take the frosts because they go dormant during the winter. Some of them are native to areas close to where Tiffany lives in.

Everything else likes mild temperatures - not too hot, not too cold.
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  #12  
Old 06-24-2012, 02:13 PM
Rowangreen Rowangreen is offline
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OK, they might work then if you've got suitable outside space for the Cyps.

My point still stand though: ones that like a centrally heated house all year might be a lot simpler to accomodate, depending on how high you like your heating Tiffany!
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  #13  
Old 06-25-2012, 05:49 AM
naoki naoki is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:) View Post
The coolest plants I recommended were the Cyps. Cyps are meant for outdoors growing. They can take the frosts because they go dormant during the winter. Some of them are native to areas close to where Tiffany lives in.

Everything else likes mild temperatures - not too hot, not too cold.
Cyps for her fourth orchid? Hmmm, maybe you missed that she was looking for an easy orchid to take care of. I'm trying to grow lab propagated Cyp. guttatum (yes, they natively grow around here), but it requires very specialized care. Some plants grow natively doesn't mean that they are easy to grow. And Cyps aren't cheap.

When I started, Oncidium hybrids were the easiest.
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  #14  
Old 06-25-2012, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naoki View Post
Cyps for her fourth orchid? Hmmm, maybe you missed that she was looking for an easy orchid to take care of. I'm trying to grow lab propagated Cyp. guttatum (yes, they natively grow around here), but it requires very specialized care. Some plants grow natively doesn't mean that they are easy to grow. And Cyps aren't cheap.

When I started, Oncidium hybrids were the easiest.
I've not had a terribly difficult time with Cyps even down here in the warm climate of Southern California.

My only problem with them was that I couldn't afford a special refrigerator to get them through dormancy. I needed one because Cyps in general don't like temperatures that go above 80 F - 85 F. But some of the ones I've grown have demonstrated that at least during growing season, they can still grow in temperatures that well exceed 80 F - 85 F.

Other than that, they've all sprouted, and at least one species bloomed. The one species that did bloom came from mid-elevation forests. And the one species that bloomed produced more sprouts. But like I said, it's too warm here and I didn't have a special fridge to get them through dormancy. And I couldn't make the whole putting it in the fridge with the food thing work because I got caught, and got complaints. Otherwise, I'd still have them all.

Cyp reginae is relatively inexpensive and grows around the Newfoundland area. That could be a good first try.

Cyp japonicum is a good one to start with too.

There's nothing wrong with growing some of the Chinese Cyps. Cypripedium macranthum and Cyp franchetii shouldn't really be all that difficult for someone in Newfoundland either. These guys like well drained soil with lots of calcium and they like it cool, that's really it.

Cyp calceolus, or Cyp parviflora would work too.

I didn't specifically recommend Cyp guttatum. Cyp guttatum has been known to come from the cold mountain forests of Alaska. Not many people succeed with this species. If you're having trouble with this species and it naturally comes from your area, maybe it needs calcium. Many of the Cyps I've read about, and some of the ones I've grown seem to have a pattern of growing in areas that have lots of calcium in the soil, because they grow on mountains or hills that are mostly made of calcium or are around areas that have a large source of calcium.

Nor have I recommended growing the acid loving Cyp acaule, specifically. I just mentioned Cyps in general. But when you understand how to grow acid loving plants, you'll eventually get the hang of growing this particular species. Acid growing plants are actually heavy feeders. People get the wrong idea when they hear that the soil they grow in is "nutrient deficient". The acidic soil doesn't retain much organic nutrients. But inorganic nutrients such as calcium and magnesium are very plentiful.

In my experience, you don't really need a whole lot of experience in growing these.

If she doesn't feel comfortable with Cyps as a recommendation, then she can try the easiest terrestrial orchids I can think of - Bletilla striata or Bletilla ochracea.
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Last edited by King_of_orchid_growing:); 06-25-2012 at 06:48 PM..
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  #15  
Old 06-25-2012, 05:08 PM
naoki naoki is offline
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Thank you for the info, Philip. Maybe this should be a separate thread, but I guess it would be more difficult to grow them in south. My previous try with Cyp. parviflorum (which is supposed to be one of the easier) was that they did grow ok for the first year. But they didn't come back after the winter dormancy. But this time, I have read more about them, so I'm hoping that they will do better. About 50% are surviving so far (mines are not established mature plant, and they are deflasked this year from Spangle Creek Labs). They seem to be easily infected by fungi, though. Cyp. macranthos seems to be more difficult than C. guttatum or C. yatabeanum for me. Maybe I need to add Calcium. You are right; one population of C. guttatum I know is growing in calcium rich area. However, the other population is in the middle of an island in a glacial fed river.

That's too bad your fridge police found them. I'm going to use a small dorm type fridge to put the entire pots. Or I might try ziplock method in our normal fridge.

Last edited by naoki; 06-25-2012 at 05:12 PM..
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  #16  
Old 06-25-2012, 05:20 PM
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Just remember, calcium and magnesium have got to balance out, or they start interfering with each other.

If I'm not mistaken, the ratio is calcium:magnesium - 5:2.5.
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  #17  
Old 06-25-2012, 06:57 PM
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@ Naoki - I looked at Spangle Creek Labs' availability list just now.

I read the description for their Cyp macranthum. It's no wonder you have a difficult time with them!

Don't find ones that come from Siberia!!! That's absolutely worse than getting a Cyp guttatum!

You need to find yourself ones that come from China. They tolerate warmth better.

Try looking into Holger Perner from Hengduan Mountains Biotechnology Ltd. as a source. He just opened up a lab that deals mostly with Chinese Cymbidiums, Paphiopedilums, and Cypripediums about a couple years ago.

I really encourage people to support his lab if they're interested in Chinese Cypripediums. Ask for an availability list, his website does not have one.
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Last edited by King_of_orchid_growing:); 06-26-2012 at 01:23 AM..
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  #18  
Old 06-26-2012, 01:20 AM
naoki naoki is offline
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Thanks, Philip.
Quote:
Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:) View Post
I read the description for their Cyp macranthum. It's not wonder you have a difficult time with them!

Don't find ones that come from Siberia!!! That's absolutely worse than getting a Cyp guttatum!

You need to find yourself ones that come from China. They tolerate warmth better.
But remember, I'm located in Fairbanks Alaska, so we are more closer to Siberia than to China. Bill Steele, who is extremely helpful, said that he experiences browning leaf problems with Cyp. macranthum, which could be caused by many things. Maybe I'm overwatering.

Quote:
Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:) View Post
Try looking into Holger Perner from Hengduan Mountains Biotechnology Ltd. as a source. He just opened up a lab that deals mostly with Chinese Cymbidiums, Paphiopedilums, and Cypripediums about a couple years ago.

I really encourage people to support his lab if they're interested in Chinese Cypripediums. Ask for an availability list, his website does not have one.
I did contact them to get a price list since their web page doesn't contain anything. But I have never got a reply...
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  #19  
Old 06-26-2012, 01:26 AM
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Oops! :/

I confused Alaska (AK) for Arkansas (AR).


Maybe try again with the availability list? He has responded to me before.
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  #20  
Old 06-26-2012, 01:30 AM
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I guess you can try cutting back on the water. Letting them dry briefly between waterings hasn't killed mine before.

You could also try to see if they are nutrient deficient.

Unfortunately physical signs are kinda fuzzy on the details. The only way to get a fairly accurate understanding of what the problem is, you may have to consult one of those people who do soil sample tests, tissue sample tests, and water sample tests for agriculturists.
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Last edited by King_of_orchid_growing:); 06-26-2012 at 01:34 AM..
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