Cattleya growing needs? (n00b alert!)

[trinityoaks]

I have three Cattleyas:

C. Carl Hauserman
Lucky Man
Volcano Queen

(I have a Phalaenopsis, too, but I've misplaced the tag with the name.)

The first two I've had for three years, and they seem to be healthy (in spite of my ignorance and neglect) but they haven't bloomed since shortly after I got them. I just purchased the Volcano Queen, and it has no blooms yet.

I'm gathering from what I've been reading that each species has its own specific growing needs. Can someone provide me with requirements for light, temperature, humidity, and water for each of these species? A Google search hasn't gotten me very far.

I just repotted them in a bark mix for orchids, in unglazed terracotta orchid pots. Afterward, I gave them all a good, 20-30 minute soaking in filtered tap water, then drained them. They're each in a slightly larger outer pot, plastic with a raised base, with water just to the raised base (below the bottom of the clay pot, for humidity). I hope this is the right thing to do for them.

[zxyqu]

If you haven't bloomed them, it's probably insufficient light. These buggers need very high light, nearly direct sun for a good bit of the day (obviously not at high noon). If you can measure the FCs of light, it should be in the 2000+ range. Phalaenopsis light is generally insufficeint at blooming a Catt, and when they do, it's generally a poor flower count. If the leaves are a darker "lush" green, this is probably the case. Best if they are, and this is generally speaking, a more yellowish green. Water when near dry, the higher the humidity the better (say above 50%, and again, general). They generally also like it pretty warm, which fits with their light requirements. It sounds like your pot has drainage, but make sure this is the case. Plant should not remain in standing water.

[tucker85]

Your orchids are hybrids, not species. Species are orchids that can be found in the wild. The good news is that man made crosses between species produces hybrids that are usually easier to grow. I agree with the previous post. If a cattleya isn't blooming, give it more light. Here's the AOS culture sheet for cattleyas.

AOS Cattleya Culture Sheet

[jaxorchidman]

Are you growing inside or out. This will make a HUGE difference in trying to bloom them. If you're growing them inside, where are you growing them. Window, Glass Door, East facing, South facing. These are all valuable things to consider. I think if you give us a little more detail, we might be able to point you in the right direction.

[dounoharm]

give them loads of water, then dry to dought, then loads of water again, followed by a near drought again etc.....along with all the light you can give them without burning the leaves.....fert once a week in active growth, once a month when they slow down.....gl and enjoy! catts are magnificent!!

[Magnus A]

As stated above
When in growth: give plenty of water, let them stand in water for 15-20 minuts so they really suck upp alot of water but let them dry up between watering.
Light: as much as possibly, inside window even direct sunlight but look out for temperature and cooking the leaf. They take much more light than you think, it is the heat that kill and "burn" the leaf. Light green color is good, yellow to much light.

A last thing: cattleya´s often need a lowering of temperature by about 10 degree Centigrade or more during night to flower.

[trinityoaks]

So all the Cattleya hybrids have pretty much the same growing requirements?

The two I've had for three years I was keeping in the window sill next to my tub, thinking that the humidity would help them. I now think they weren't getting nearly enough light (north facing window). They weren't getting much water (mainly because I kept forgetting), but they seemed to do ok.

Now I have all of my orchids in an east-ish window that will get morning sun. There are blinds I can close if needed. The tricky part will be diurnal temperature variation. Not sure how I can do that, unless I put them upstairs during the day and downstairs at night (probably at least a ten-degree difference between floors).

How do I use bamboo sticks to monitor moisture? Will bamboo skewers (for shish-kebabs) work? Do I just stick them in and leave them?

[WhiteRabbit]

Glad you found us!

I use bamboo skewers for kabobs - just stick them in the media (gently twist in). Leave them - when you want to check moisture, pull them out, and touch to your cheek or upper lip - if the skewer feels even dry, but slightly cool to your skin, there is moisture in the media. Water when the skewer is bone dry, or just ever so slightly cool feeling. Replace the skewer back into the media where you had it.

East facing window should be good for Catts - they can probably take sun all morning if acclimated gradually to the increase in light

[silken]

There are some different requirements but in general they need a lot of light and very well drained potting media. If you know what species yours come from, then you can look up growing info on the species. But many are very hybridized and their parentage to species goes back a long way.

I stick shish-kebab skewers in just about every potted orchid I have. I pull it out to test if its damp to determine when to water. I put it back in the same place and leave it. That way it is in the same condition as the bark or whatever at the bottom and near center of the pot which is usually the last place to dry out.

An east window is certainly an improvement but I'm not sure it would be enough to bloom a cattleya. I guess it depends on how direct the sun is and if there are trees giving any shade etc. They may be so happy to have more light that they just might bloom! Many people put theirs our for the summer and they thrive out there so long as they are not in direct noon sun.

[trinityoaks]

How many hours of sun do they need? It's shortly before noon, and while the room is fairly bright, the sun is no longer shining in the window. Will that be enough, or do they need more? The only trees are behind the back fence 50+ feet away, but some of them are pretty tall.

Is it ok to put a layer of sphagnum between the inner and outer pots and on top of the bark to maintain humidity, or would that keep them too moist?

Also, how do I tell when they're "actively growing" (for feeding purposes)? Should I be seeing new leaves or shoots?

Oh, and my Phalaenopsis is now officially NoID. I found the (only) tag that was on it, but it's a generic Phalaenopsis care tag with no variety name or cross info. It had light purple 2" flowers on it when I got it, but those have faded and dropped off.