Cattleya growing needs? (n00b alert!)

[flexdc]

Trinity, I don't think your orchids should be buried in the moss. I would take the moss out or if you want moss, make sure it is on the root level. The leaves should not be submerged in the moss. The orchid will rot because of too much moisture retention.

If your summer temp is in the 90s put your Cattleyas in the shade or let them have morning and late afternoon sun. I grow mine full sun from morning till about midday. But our summer temp rarely top 80F.

Good luck
Andrew

[james mickelso]

There is no reason to "soak" them for 15-20 mins. Just either run water through them until water runs out the bottom of the pot, or dip them in a small dish or pot of water for 30 secs. The roots if they are viable will soak up all the water they need. If they had some rotted roots which you cut off, then what they really need is for you to spray the leaves especially the undersides of the leaves. If the roots were compromised then they really need the leaves sprayed as without roots, the plant can't take up any water and will become dehydrated. You can also dip them in water, let them dry a day, then place a ziplock bag over them to help keep the moisture levels in the leaves up. What is the humidity level where you live? 50%-60% is good. You biggest threat right now is descation of the leaves and too much water in the pot/media. Also you don't need all that moss. Take it out. Orchids are much hardier than we perceive them to be. Here is an orchid that has few roots and was repotted about 4 months ago. I only water it once a week not because I have a scedule but because I feel the weight of the pot and it has become lighter than when it has been watered. I know there is one new root growing from the newest pbulb about one inch long. So that is not much but enough. I started with this under plastic ziplock bag for the first month. Here is a picture to show you how to use a ziplock bag.

[trinityoaks]

Originally Posted by flexdc

Trinity, I don't think your orchids should be buried in the moss. I would take the moss out or if you want moss, make sure it is on the root level. The leaves should not be submerged in the moss.

The moss is just between the inner and outer pots, and on top of the bark. The roots are in bark. Are you saying I should remove the moss from the top, or remove it completely?

If your summer temp is in the 90s put your Cattleyas in the shade or let them have morning and late afternoon sun.

The temps don't hit the 90s until mid-afternoon. On the back porch they would get morning sun until about 11:00 or 11:30 am (temps in low to mid-80s with 55-60% relative humidity at that point), and then would be in shade the rest of the day. Do you think that's still too much?

[james mickelso]

Where in Tejas are you? It makes a difference. Hot and dry (30-40 percent humidity or 60-80 percent? East or west tejas? The more light the better short of burning the leaves. In other words, if the leaves feel warm to the touch, too bright. Light green like grass or oak trees. Water copiously then let dry. Once you water copiously, lift the pot and "feel" how heavy it is. Don't water for a week, "feel" how light the pot is. Then water heavily again. That is how to tell when to water. Skewers are fine but can be misleading. Weight is the answer. You can feel it. If you have a south facing or west facing window, just hang a sheer curtain between the orchid and the window. If it gets really humid, get a small fan and get the air moving around the plant. Catts and their relatives live in the tropics where it is hot but humid most of the year, then dry the rest. They grow when it is the rainy season and flower in the dry season, then rest for a month or so when it is cooler.

[silken]

I would remove the moss from the top. The bark is open and airy so air can get in and dry the roots quickly. The moss is hampering that.

James, I don't think skewers are misleading if you leave them in place all the time. If they are wet, it is certainly wet down there in the pot and if they are bone dry, there can't be much moisture or the stick would be damp too. To me it is very fool proof. But you need to leave it there so it is absorbing moisture. Just sticking it in for a second isn't long enough for it to work as a proper gauge. Also place it so it is close to the centre and bottom of the pot where it will be last to dry out.

[trinityoaks]

Originally Posted by james mickelso

Where in Tejas are you? It makes a difference.

Yeah, I know! Texas is a whole other country! I'm in SE Texas, not far from the Gulf Coast. Mid-day relative humidity is about 55-65% year-round. There's usually enough of a breeze to keep air moving, though.

If you have a south facing or west facing window, just hang a sheer curtain between the orchid and the window.

Our house faces SW, so none of the windows really gets a lot of direct sun. The only window at the front of the house is partially blocked by a tall hedge. There just doesn't seem to be a good window location where they'll get enough light. That's why I was considering the back porch and the morning sun.

[james mickelso]

Silken, yes they can work and for some they do. For beginners I always try to get them to feel the weight of the pot so they know when the plant is dry. Phals are usually planted in a finer mix than catts and the like but even then they show a marked difference in weight from just right to dry. And catts are usually planted in a courser media so they can dry faster and the weight is a great indicator. Each to their own way. I just try to teach people who aren't that familiar with how dry they should let their plants get. Those who are experiencing root problems usually don't let their plants get dry enough. How dry is dry when feeling how damp a skewer is? Is it three days, two days, one day from being just right and time to water? You can judge weight much better than your skin can feel the difference from how damp something is and that's why I try to teach them to feel the difference in the weight. Try it. I not trying to persuade you to change, because that wouldn't be right. That's not what I am trying to do. Just another technique to use. But just as a learning experience, try both ways. Next time you water, feel the weight of the pot. Then before you water again, feel the difference in weight. Even for my small 3 inch clay pots, I can feel the difference in weight. Just try it. I used to use the skewer method. So I know you can feel when it is damp. Not the issue. The issue is "how wet is it?" Just right? Too dry? Too wet? Hmmm. To someone new to the art of orchids, that may be critical. But again, each to their own way. Thank you for the opportunity for discussion. That way everyone learns.

[silken]

Yes, each person has to figure out a method that works. I let my skewer get dry as in bone dry for the catts. And very close to that for the Phals. The reason I started using the skewer method was that the pot would feel feather light but would still be damp in the bottom. But it is all a learning experience when all is said and done.

[james mickelso]

Trinity, try growing them on the back porch. Watch them and feel the temp on the leaf. If warm to the touch, that is too much sun. 10-11 may be too much light. But you can hang a sheer curtain in front of them if it is too much. Orchids can take 90*f as long as they have lots of water and lots of air movement. Humidity will determine when they are in need of water. And temps. If the leaves start turning a pale yellow, too much light. But before then, feel the temp of the leaf surface. Warm to the touch and you'll need to hang something sheer. Thin clothes line and clothes pins work. It doesn't need to be permenant. Hang something heavy on the bottom of the curtain to keep it from blowing around and knocking down anything. Fine spray in the morning before work, and when you get home. They should be fine. Also more temps, more water equal more food. Not heavier dose, just more often. Light feedings more often. Make sure you leach out the excess nitrates by flushing the pots with lots of water. Get the pots wet, wait 15 mins then flush them again. Say every 4th watering. Show us pics of what you do.

[flexdc]

I agree with what Silken and James said. Remove the moss from the top all together. Cattleyas specially don't need it. I would guess hot sun until 9:30 or 10:00 in the morning, but let the plant adjust to the light. i.e. start it in the shade outside the first day then move it closer to the sun each day till the sun shines on it. Remember in the winter the plant will need more sun than in the summer because of the weaker sun light. Most Cattleya hybrids can withstand temps down to upper 40s. I leave mine outside all year long.
As for the watering, for Cattleyas only, if you think the plants are dry wait a day then water. I have lost too many plants to over watering. This is especially true during cooler weather.
Best of luck
Andrew