Repotted Phalaenopsis - Page 3 - Orchid Board

Bill U. · #21 11-13-2012, 02:55 PM

I understand your point completely! It is more than likely going to take a while (a month or two probably) before you should stop the bag treatment. But yes, I would definitely suggest to put some moss in there, but I would make sure that when buying your peat moss to have moss that actually looks like moss and not like matter that is starting to decompose- that will only cause more problems than you have already. Many growers suggest using long-fibered Chilean sphagnum moss (available online). I personally just get my sphagnum from Home Depot, but I don't know if that is easy where you are. Worst case, consult a local nursery to figure out what might be the best for your local climate.

rosslyn1037 · #22 11-13-2012, 05:26 PM

Yes, we have Home Depot here in Toronto. I hope they sell small bags of it, as I only have three orchids. I don't need a big bag of it. Thanks, Bill, for your help.

Im Just Saying · #23 11-14-2012, 01:05 AM

I haven't seen this mentioned yet so I wanted to ask did you soak the bark mix in water prior to re-potting? If not this is probably why it is not retaining moisture sufficiently.

rosslyn1037 · #24 11-14-2012, 01:22 AM

Hi,

Yes, I did soak the potting mix first, as the potting mix bag said. As others have said to me, it's most likely dry because I did not put any peat moss in the pot and it is in a clay pot.

james mickelso · #25 11-14-2012, 08:36 PM

Looking at the photos I would suggest that you water every 4th or 5th day. Those roots look fine but the leaves, which will never be perky, say "water me". The mix this plant is potted in is quite coarse but the plant will grow just fine in it with a moderate increase in watering. If you would like, it would be ok to put a thin layer of spagnum moss on top of the bark. 1/2 an inch would do or even an inch. Even though the plant is in a low light environment if kept warm (65 to 75 degrees f ) This plant would start perking up a bit. Once phal leaves have become flacid, they normally stay that way. Just give this plant time and warmth with an increase in watering and it should do fine. You want to really be nice to the phal, spray the undersides of the leaves evey day with some good water low in dissolved salts. Give it a try. You can even do better and mix in a very dilute amount of fertilizer. The leaves can take in the moisture and food through the stoma on the undersides of the leaves,. Remember that phals grow in nature on trees with no soil at all.

james mickelso · #26 11-14-2012, 08:45 PM

As for your mix....here...the larger phal is potted in very coarse bark and charcol while the other one is potted in mainly charcol. Both are doing just fine. I tend to pot my phals in a coarse mix so I can water more often. That way I can also fertilize more often. I'm watering the phals roots!!! Not the mix!!! I also have two phals growing in a spa filter basket (mesh) and large size bark which is held in by a one inch layer of spagnum moss which is held in with very thin phone wire. The whole set up is hung on it's side so the crowns get no water in the center. Works great. Here's a pic.

LuvPhals · #27 11-14-2012, 09:48 PM

I was just reading through the posts and thought I hope she isn't getting confused on the moss part. She is saying peat moss and it should be the spaghnum moss. All her posts are saying peat moss.

james mickelso · #28 11-14-2012, 11:18 PM

You are right. Peat moss is bad for phals. Spagnum moss is what she should use. Let her know. New Zealand spagnum moss is best I think. Even the Chilean.

rosslyn1037 · #29 11-15-2012, 01:06 AM

Thanks James, for your detailed instructions, which is what I really need. I have a zip-lock freezer bag inverted over it right now with the bottom open for air. I will water it more often and spray the underside of the leaves. I will see if I can get a small bag of sphagnum moss and put that on top of the bark as well. If you think of anymore suggestions, I welcome them.

rosslyn1037 · #30 11-24-2012, 07:24 PM

Hi there,

I have a new problem with the bagging method. Because the pots are terracotta clay pots, they are developing some kind of mold growth on the outside surface of the pots, since they are covered with the bag. It is open at the bottom though, so that air can get inside. So I lifted the bag up just to cover the plant itself. But isn't that defeating the whole moisture retaining objective? But the orchids are liking the bagging method and have perked up. Any ideas?