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  #1  
Old 04-17-2012, 08:53 PM
Slobo Slobo is offline
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dear friends,

Next week I would be getting new fertilizer for my orchids.
It will be the MSU fertilizer. Now, I'm thinking of changing my feeding regimen since this is the new fert both for me and for my plants. My plan is to go slowly so at first month I'm planing to feed them at rate of 50 ppm N. Second month I should increase rate at 100 ppm N and finally the third month I'm thinking to go back to my regular feeding of 125 ppm N.

Secondly, I water my plants weekly by soaking them in the solution for about 10-15 minutes. I replace solution for each new plant so to minimize chances of getting contaminated if any of them have fungus or something.
I'm not planing to change watering technique.

What is your opinion on all of this? Does it sound reasonable?

Thanks for any opinion and advise you may have.

Slobo
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  #2  
Old 04-17-2012, 11:08 PM
tucker85 tucker85 is offline
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Everything sounds fine, you aren't going to hurt anything doing it that way. But I don't see any reason to start fertilizing slowly. This is spring which is the begining of the growing season. I would fertilize at your normal rate if I were you. But either way is probably fine.
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  #3  
Old 04-17-2012, 11:23 PM
Slobo Slobo is offline
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Tucker thanks for taking time to respond to my post.

The one of the reasons I'm thinking of starting slow here is because I'm "stepping into unknown waters". I don't really know how my plants will react to new food, how it will affect the growing medium, etc. I'm mostly concerned about amount of nitrogen in the new fertilizer. The old one had 19% N but it was mostly urea. Now the new one has 13% N without any urea. Not really sure how the plants will react to the switch.

Slobo
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  #4  
Old 04-18-2012, 12:20 AM
keithrs keithrs is offline
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I suggest using between 50-60 ppm N every watering. Leach once a month with ro water.
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  #5  
Old 04-18-2012, 12:37 AM
Slobo Slobo is offline
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Thanks Keith.

Right now I'm feeding my plants at the rate of 125 ppmN. They doing just fine. The new growth, leaves and roots are coming out nicely. Please explain to this novice your suggestion to lower the feeding. Am I doing something wrong in your opinion?

Thanks for your help.

Slobo
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  #6  
Old 04-18-2012, 09:11 AM
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Ray Ray is offline
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Slobo - I doubt you're going to see any particular reaction by your plants upon switching fertilizers. What is your immediate reaction upon eating one meal today and a different one tomorrow?

I was one of the "beta-testers" of the MSU stuff, and used it at 125 ppm N for several years with great success. About 9 months ago, I cut back to 75 ppm N, as an experiment. Animals that get a complete, moderate diet tend to be healthier than those that eat heavily - so why might that not e true with plants? So far, I see no issues.
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  #7  
Old 04-18-2012, 09:33 AM
Slobo Slobo is offline
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Thanks Ray. Good comparative point. I think I'll do a little experiment with amount of fertilizer on two of my phals, Just to see how they react to the reduced feeding.

Slobo
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  #8  
Old 04-18-2012, 11:13 AM
keithrs keithrs is offline
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From my understanding.... In the wild most orchids don't see even close to 50 PPM N every watering. 125 PPM is enough to feed even the hungriest tomatoes plants.... very fast growing plant. I think your better off upping the Ca/Mg, fulvic acid, and adding seaweed extract then stuffing your plants with N.

I went almost all winter with out feeding(only 3 time) and my plant still grow very well. I fact I think I got better flowering this year(so far).
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  #9  
Old 04-18-2012, 11:23 AM
Slobo Slobo is offline
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Thanks for your advise Keith.

I do add seaweed to the solution at every watering. Excuse my ignorance but how you upping the Ca/Mg. What is the fulvic acid? Oh, so many things to learn!!!

Slobo

Last edited by Slobo; 04-18-2012 at 11:26 AM..
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  #10  
Old 04-18-2012, 01:54 PM
BruceP BruceP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slobo View Post
Thanks for your advise Keith.

I do add seaweed to the solution at every watering. Excuse my ignorance but how you upping the Ca/Mg. What is the fulvic acid? Oh, so many things to learn!!!

Slobo
Slobo,
Fulvic acid/humic acid are substances produced by decaying organic matter (one of the reasons that compost is good in the garden).

You're getting excellent advice above, but probably a little too much for somebody with a small collection. The MSU fert with the added seaweed should provide everything your plants need to grow and flower well. The MSU fertilizer has Ca and Mg (along with other minerals)and the seaweed will provide organic compounds. While I don't believe that there's any benefit to going slow with the new fertilizer, I do agree that you could probably do with a little less N. I would also use one watering a month to 'flush' salts, i.e. plain water only.

Some might think it unwise, but I don't think you need fresh solution for each plant. It may work out OK for a few plants, but as your collection grows it won't be either practical or economical. I think you'd find it easier to get a larger basin and water multiple plants at the same time. It sounds like one of those things that people advise others to do but don't do themselves.
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