Would love some help, trying to save GF's orchid - Page 2 - Orchid Board

RosieC · #11 09-27-2011, 05:26 PM

I would cut either side with one like this. When they are larger they can sometimes just be twisted off, but as it's so small I would avoid any damage by cutting either side.

ANC · #12 09-27-2011, 11:31 PM

sorry just a newbie also, just want to say good luck and i hope you can revive it..
plants, when dedicated to someone special becomes even more valuable..
you'll get a lot of good advise here

Otterinaround · #13 09-28-2011, 02:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RosieC

I agree with others that the main plant is dead. I also think the baby will not get any more nutrients from that dried up stalk so you might as well remove the spike from the roots of the main plant and just work on saving the keiki.

With no roots on the baby, and wrinkled leaves it's going to be difficult. I would try putting the base in a VERY tiny pot (no wider than the leaves are across) making sure you use good quality orchid medium. Then mist the leaves every morning, possibly in your hot climate do it again in early afternoon. The leaves and especially the crown (where the leaves join) should be dry by night otherwise it can rot.

I've actually kept a rootless Paphiopedilum orchid alive since March that way and it's even growing slightly. I would try something similar for this.

I'm LOVING that earlier post!
Excellent info Rosie.
I wanted to add that it might not be a bad time to touch a little rooting compound on the base. Nothing extravagant but enough to encourage the search for nutrient and moisture.

I have to reiterate that I am VERY worried about those wrinkly leaves. Phalaenopsis can be much like aloe storing water and nutrient in those fat leathery leaves. The rim of black/brown indicates a significant deal of sunburn.

As far as cutting the keiki (or baby plant) or anything (including dead roots when repotting or infected leaves (may you NEVER see a bacterial/fungal infection)) from ANY orchid...
USE A STERILE RAZOR (a clean smooth cut is HEALTHY).
I would personally leave very little of that dry stalk. About a half inch either side.

I agree with several members concerning the misting

I beg you MAKE SURE NO WATER GETS in that crevice at the top of the plant(the area known as the crown).

Rot in this Boardwalk real estate means certain death in a plant that has a steep climb and long struggle ALREADY.

Another important thing to remember is not to change the location once you've found a good spot.
The constant moving and shifting of light provided, drastic changes in watering won't let the little guy adapt to YOUR routine. Consistency, hope, and luck will be big players in your cause.

Praying for the best.

And

keeping the idea that YOU MAY have to get another one of similar size... IN CASE...

Post a pic

once you get done with the Keiki
maybe we can give you some more pointers

and definately some encouragement

RosieC · #14 09-28-2011, 04:38 AM

If you use a rooting compound use a liquid NOT a powder one. (KLN & Superthrive are often used with orchids).

Powder ones are too strong for orchids and can actually inhibit root growth as a result.

Another thought is that using luke-warm water to spray it and making sure it's kept generally on the warmer side more like summer temps than winter temps. I find Phals always grow better in the spring. I'm not sure how much luke-warm water will help over the winter, but I've certainly found it helped 'jump-start' the spring for a struggling orchid in February one year.

darantares · #15 09-28-2011, 09:31 PM

Wow y'all, a lot of great info. So here's where we're at.

Wrinkled leaves = dehydrated? Is that right?
Burnt leave edges = sunburned? Right?

Are those white things roots?

This is what got put into the new pot. With this stuff because it's what I could find. Hope its the right thing:

And now we have:

Mist it twice a day? AM and afternoonish? And make sure that no water gets in between the two leaves because rot is a bad thing. And leave it outside behind the protection of the sun screen shade thing we have?

The GF wanted to move it inside, but we don't have a window we could set it on. The counter is about 15 feet from the window and she was thinking of we left the blinds open it would get enough sun. I don't believe her and would rather leave it outside. Plus, I have a cat that likes plants, so I don't want to risk it.

Thoughts? Again, many thanks for all the help.

I'll worry about winter care when it gets closer.

Rooting compound. Where can I get that? That's a new one for me.

Carpe Diem · #16 09-28-2011, 10:06 PM

If you get water in the middle of the leaves, take a Q-Tip or twist up the corner of a paper towel and put it in the middle to soak up the water. As for the winter and no windowsill, could you hang it from the ceiling, install a bracket by the window to hang it from? As for the potting medium, sun or no sun etc. I'll leave to the experts. I'm a looong way from being able to help someone with a problem.

Otterinaround · #17 09-29-2011, 12:53 AM

Well, after looking at the clipped picture I am thinking that little white fleck is a GOOD indication!

White styrofoam light roots with a silvery sheen are VERY HAPPY roots. It is important to note that healthy roots ALSO have GREEN TIPS.

The potting looks quite good as far as soil levels are concerned but, I am worried as to your choice of pot. The suggested pots for orchids are pots sold for azaleas at home depot. These pots have deep slashes in the bottom and sides. Sadly, I think you got a single hole in the bottom terra cotta pot rather than the slashes.

I hope you put some styro peanuts in the bottom to allow for air circulation near the roots.

As far as putting the plant outside... I'm not exactly partial to it (this was the method the Mamma plant got scorched to death earlier).

As Carpe Diem suggested "putting a bracket in a room" can give you an excellent method of keeping it kitty free but... you will lose some of the humidity available by traying a plant or any residual humidity you may get outside. You might also lose some of the air movement by mere merit of putting the plant indoors.

So enough Cons... now for the PROS
It's key to remember that the air at home will be a bit more controlled than that of the cruel world outside.
You can also regulate the humidity.
With the indoor location of the plant you can also fine tune the amount of sun the plant gets via blinds, curtains and shade.

right now the plant needs some time to recover so a little sun goes a long way

For me... and my phals...
I water once a week to get the water pouring out of the hole in the bottom of the terra cotta pots...
It runs out of the pot and into a pebble filled dish underneath. I add enough water to be able to see the fluid underneath and make sure it's not stuck to the bottom of the pot.
I fertilize with Better Gro once a month mixed up to full strength.
This is done by cutting my regular watering volume into quarters. I pour one half cup of water on the plant. I then add one cup of fertilizer and finish with the other half of the cup of water.
so that is...
1/2 water
1 fertilizer
1/2 water

Phals DO NOT like salty residues on their roots so rinse them off. WORRY if you see any chalky residues on the edge of your terra cotta pots as time passes.

Any misting I do, happens bright and early in the AM (before work) and I usually get someone else to spritz them around midday to 1400 should I be worried about needing more than the one good misting in the morning.

Regarding rooting compound rooting compound take a peek at this. IT'S EXPENSIVE STUFF but works wonders when stealing clippings and starting cuttings.

keithrs · #18 09-29-2011, 01:27 AM

I would recommend that you go and get sphagnum moss..... Not saying that mix will not work, but its more for cymbidiums. Sphagnum moss has better antipathogenic ability.

Shriveling = dehydrated

Your leaves don't look burnt ..... Most of the time Phal. leaves will turn white if burnt. They may turn dark (red) when the leaves are getting alittle too much light but there not burnt. Its the plants way of putting on sun block! These plants will do fine in any bright area. Your GF may be right!!!! Its better to give it alittle lower light right now.

Eyebabe · #19 09-29-2011, 08:44 AM

While you are out shopping and buying all this stuff, get her another orchid

I think your efforts have a nice opportunity for success.
But realize that this keiki, if it survives, is years away from blooming.

You will learn alot woking with this small plant...but in the meantime, feed your eyes with another floral babe.
In the grand spectrum of things, it is well worth it!
You even have all the potting material to repot it etc.

Your advancing knowledge will enable you to care for it better as well

camille1585 · #20 09-29-2011, 09:07 AM

As to the care of the keiki, i would not let it get any direct sunlight until some roots grow as that will only accelarate the process of water loss. Keep it in bright light indirect though. Misting the top of the medium also helps when it gets dry between waterings.

Miracle gro is not the best choice of medium (for any orchid), it's too much like dirt. If you can find some sphag that would be great, young plants do very well in it. And maybe also a much smaller pot. Once the roots get going the pot is too large for the medium to properly dry out and the poor roots may stay wet too long.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eyebabe

But realize that this keiki, if it survives, is years away from blooming.

Not necessarily, keikis are very quick to bloom compared to seedlings of comparable size. Once this one gets some roots and establishes (knock on wood!), it wouldn't be surprising to see blooms within 6-12 months.