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07-11-2012, 12:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vmax3000
Your Onc. might appreciate being just a little drier. I have to agree with James on the moss. But, I am a chronic overwaterer, so I am just looking to kill my plants by the black mushy death route in moss. There are some plants that thrive in it, so I am learning to be more astute to their needs (the pleurothallid types). My Oncidium microchilum grows really well in a medium to fine bark mix with LECA and granite chips in the mix. I will occasionally purchase more than one seedling and experiment, especially when they are cheap. I like to refer to IOSPE ( Internet Orchid Species Photo Encyclopedia ) for some background info on the plant in question. Troy Meyers has the Baker's culture sheet website: Orchid Culture -- Charles and Margaret Baker
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I noticed the wrinkling tended to appear when I was away for about 5-6 days and the humidity was on the dry side. Since the pseudobulbs store water, my feeling is that there was insufficient moisture to keep them plump. But, it was also coming up on a year of being in the same moss, so it may have gotten a bit too acidic for the plant. Anyway, I've been scouting out a few different medium to fine bark mixes and will shift to using that soon. Thanks for the encouragement and the links--I was aware of Baker's website, but had found it a bit too technical for me last year; I should probably try reading through it again. The IOSPE is certainly a great reference to know about, thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by theanalyst
Too bad one died, but I'm glad to see the other two are still surviving. Good luck!
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Thanks! Yeah, I'm not too mad at myself for having lost one. The Encyclia is a bit more touchy about humidity than the others. But I'm going to be better prepared this coming winter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wynn Dee13
Have you changed the moss since you have had them? The moss should be changed every year. I grow almost all my orchids in sphagnum moss in clay pots. I water my Catts when the moss is dry and crunchy. They can go a few days dry.
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I just changed the moss on the Oncidium, but should do it on the Cattleya next. Yet it's doing so well right now, I'm a little uneasy about upsetting things though... but better to do it while it's healthy rather than struggling right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wynn Dee13
Next time you order online make sure you pay attention to the pot size and if they say the plants are blooming size (BS), seedling, near blooming size (NBS), etc. Then you won't be surprised by the size of the plants. Also if you can look up the plant and see how big it gets that will give you an idea of the size of the plant too. If a certain plant is cheaper on one site than on another it can mean it is a younger plant. Jewell Orchids states the size of the pots and they usually say if it is a seedling or blooming size.
Good luck and post pics when it blooms. Don't feel too bad for killing a few plants. It is just something that happens when your learning! I know I have killed my share!
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I knew they would be young plants, but I'd never gotten a seedling before to know what to expect. I didn't know to look for [BS] or [NBS]. Now I know, though. Anyway, thanks for the encouragement; I do feel a little better about having lost only one plant so far. I just hope I can keep the Oncidium alive and get it into a healthy growing track. But as a novice orchid owner, I can't really complain if I get one healthy plant out of the three. I really do hope the Cattleya does well enough to try blooming this winter! You can be sure I'll post pics if it makes even a small flower this time around.
Last edited by cythaenopsis; 07-11-2012 at 12:16 AM..
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07-11-2012, 12:45 AM
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Yes it is better to repot when it is healthy. Catts can sulk if not repotted at the right time. Repot when the new growth is putting out new roots. This allows the plant to establish faster and they react better to being repotted. I know what you mean about not wanting to disturb it when it is doing well but you don't want to miss your new root growth opportunity then have to wait tell the next new growth with roots. If you miss and have to wait tell next time by then the plant might not be doing well. It's better to repot during the growing season too.
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07-14-2012, 02:16 PM
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^ Thanks, Wynn. Sounds like sage advice.
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07-14-2012, 02:47 PM
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The shipping does change with area and size of order. Here to me would be $8 with 1 plant and $14 with 5 plants.
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07-14-2012, 06:27 PM
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I just looked up the parentage of your Lc. Sierra Skies 'Leone'. This isn't a mini Catt so it gets kind of big. The parents of Sierra Skies are Lc. Parysatis x C. mossiae and the parents of Lc. Parysatis are C. bowringiana x L. pumila. So it is made of three species. C. mossiae, C. bowringiana, and L. pumila.
I do know about the name changes but I used the original names so it wasn't so confusing and you can find more info on the net with the older names.
The only parent I would consider to be small is Laelia pumila. The other two can get quite a bit bigger so I guess it could bloom in two years but I think it will be longer. Who knows though! Here is a pic of a blooming size plant. Lc. Sierra Skies - Google Search
Catts need quite a bit of light so give it as much as it will tolerate without burning it of course.
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07-20-2012, 09:49 PM
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Wynn, thanks for the info! I wouldn't have had the patience to do the lineage research, fumbling on the complicated genus names.
Yes, it's definitely not a mini, as the blooms are capable of reaching a maximum size of about 4". Based on the size of the stems/stalks that it will eventually need for flowers of that size, I think you're right that it'll be a couple more years.
I have been giving it a decent amount of light as it has a southerly facing window. I've situated it ahead of other plants so that it gets a little extra light. Also, since it came to be about a year, I pulled it from the pot to inspect the roots and there are plenty of them, although a bit more beige and squishy than I would have liked. I've replaced the medium with a looser packing of moss and so far it seems OK with it. Would this particular Cattleya be better off in a finely chopped bark mix?
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07-21-2012, 02:07 AM
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I grow all my Catts in moss in clay pots with a few styrofoam packing peanuts in the bottom of the pot for drainage. Just don't pack it tightly. If you need to add stakes or rhizome clips to stabilize the plant do that instead of packing the moss tight. I water when the moss is completely dry. I also usually let them go a few days dry too but I'm more of an under waterer. I also have a fan going 24/7 in my plant room.
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07-21-2012, 07:05 PM
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Thanks a lot for the advice, Wynn. You certainly have a lot more experience with this than I do. I hadn't known about rhizome clips before--very useful design!
Here's what she looks like with roots exposed:
As you can see, she got busy making a lot of roots and is already pushing out yet another pseudo-pod. I've repacked her lightly in moss with some foam peanuts at the bottom to take up a little space. I'm definitely going to get some bamboo shoots for moisture detection so I let it dry out enough. I think I was watering her just a little too much, which is what contributed to some of the unhealthy roots.
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07-22-2012, 12:36 AM
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The skewer method would be a good idea. It works well. Then you won't over water.
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02-18-2013, 04:13 PM
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The moss/bark potting mix has been working out pretty well for this Cattleya (moss on top, bark underneath). Growth is slow, but overall it has a healthy appearance.
The latest pseudo-bulb is rather plump and round, the biggest one so far. The wandering roots are still at it.
Last edited by cythaenopsis; 02-19-2013 at 06:26 PM..
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