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  #21  
Old 07-12-2011, 02:21 PM
Call_Me_Bob Call_Me_Bob is offline
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KLN has something like superthrive. its mostly vitamin b i think
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  #22  
Old 07-12-2011, 02:35 PM
sii sii is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silken View Post
I don't think those are considered keikis but I suppose keikis are just new growths. SuperThrive supposedly promotes new growth and I swear it works, but again, not easy to find in Canada. I ordered mine from the U.S is something you can get here and valuable for getting the roots started. The kind you bought will likely do the same thing.
should I just spray it onto the medium?
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  #23  
Old 07-12-2011, 02:40 PM
keithrs keithrs is offline
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I get rid of all dead roots(As you've done), soak the plant in phyton 27 or a copper based fungicide. Get some hydroton. Pot with rhizome above the mix, in a shallow plastic pot.(Intel you grow roots it will be a humidity tray) Heres the real key....put in a warm, bright location. Out of the sun and any hot breeze. Water as you normally would. Foliar feed with a foliar spray bi-daily. Spray the underside of the leaves.... in the morning is best. You can buy one or make it out of your normal fertilizer. Add a little calmag once a week.

I believe, If the plant has no roots to soak up a rooting hormone, its a waste.

You will need new leads before you'll get new roots.

Here's some pics to help you.

This is all that was good off a 15 yr old hybrid catt.


I have the plant on top of the mix....


Two new leads
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  #24  
Old 07-12-2011, 03:13 PM
sii sii is offline
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keithrs,
your bulbs look better than mine.

Okay, here's another shot at it...

do you think it wasn't growing because I didn't stake it? Would that make a difference? Just trying to figure this all out.

(I have her in a bark, coco, moss mixture, sitting on top of the mdium. I've attached it to 3 'stakes' and made a rhizome clip out of a coat hanger. The medium is wet and I sprayed it with liquid seaweed. I'm going to place all of this into the terrarium.)
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  #25  
Old 07-12-2011, 03:18 PM
Call_Me_Bob Call_Me_Bob is offline
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i wouldnt use moss.
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  #26  
Old 07-12-2011, 05:37 PM
Claire25 Claire25 is offline
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Just wanted to jump in here and wish you luck! I think that your setup should work out if you can keep the humidity level up around the plant, which looks well-secured in an appropriately-sized pot. The moss should actually help in this regard, though I wouldn't keep it "wet," more like the dampness of a wrung-out sponge is what you should be shooting for.

I've brought "back to life" several cattleya hybrids using moss...mainly because, as a rank beginner, I kept my bark-grown plants w-a-a-y too dry until the roots desiccated into oblivion. I now grow all my orchids in straight moss because, hey, it works for me. I have heard that it possesses some antibiotic properties, too, (apparently sphagnum is a backwoods-type remedy as a poultice for wounds) so that's good for your current situation...it could mean that the heavier-duty chemicals may not be necessary IF you keep the moss from getting soggy.

Best of luck!
Claire
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  #27  
Old 07-12-2011, 05:51 PM
sii sii is offline
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Thanks claire!

I'll keep my fingers and toes crossed. :-)
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  #28  
Old 07-12-2011, 06:13 PM
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Leafmite Leafmite is offline
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I have used moss this summer to root old, tiny, rootless/leafless, nearly hopeless, backbulbs of Catts but I only used a half-inch layer under them and moved them out with the first signs of root. I'm not usually a fan of moss, though, and I'd be very cautious using it in the mix if the Catt became rootless do to rot. Yes, for some reason, things root best when they are kept very still--I just made cuttings of one of my plants and put them where they will have complete stillness for the next month (they are slow to root). The terrarium is a good idea. You can put some moss in the bottom to add humidity and mist that. Once you have the orchid all ready to go, it is best not to move it at all. If not using rock or leca, keep the medium dry so as not to foster fungus, mold and...rot. There are no roots so the plant won't mind. It just needs light, warmth, and humidity. You might need to be patient but within the month, you will have new growth, then new roots, hopefully sooner.
Good luck!
Leafmite
Good luck!
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  #29  
Old 07-12-2011, 08:40 PM
sii sii is offline
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I figured it had something to do with movement. Yes, I'll keep it in the terrarium and make sure the moss doesn't get to wet.
Thanks again all!
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  #30  
Old 07-13-2011, 12:41 AM
keithrs keithrs is offline
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In my experiences, plant movement doesn't have a effect on roots starting, just the trying to get the root to steady the plant or to grab on. The most important factors will be warm temps and lighting. Not only how much light but how long the day is. Remember that most plants send out new grow when the days get longer, brighter and warmer. So, if it's warm enough I would put it outside. I personally don't think humidity is as important at this point..... The "humidity tray" I have is not to give the plant moisture but to keep the the moisture lose to a min. I think you should put it in the medium your going to use.... After new roots start, you want the roots to start taking off in the medium.... You will get a chance to repot just lowers the chance of braking the new root tips.

Seaweed fertilizers are perfect for foliar sprays. Most have natural growth hormones in them. Calcium helps with growth also. Plants in general can only get cal through there root tips and underside of the leaves.

All this is my past experience.... other will and have there own experiences. Put them altogether and you have a saved orchid!!!!!
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