Phal Concerns - Page 2 - Orchid Board

Paul Mc · #11 06-08-2011, 10:00 AM

That's good to know quiltergal - now you've got me searching to add that to my collection, lol...

Just generally speaking though, the one's you buy from grocery and home stores tend to not be harlequin's and purple is generally a sign of too much light. But know that I know about harlequin's, I'll have to revise my statements about coloration and light!

Scy, when was the last time you checked the roots below the surface of your medium? I'm just curious because phal's produce keiki's for one of two reasons - either they are extremely happy or they are attempting to save themselves before dying. Based on the fact that you have new roots going everywhere I'm tempted to say you are just fine, but I would still suggest checking the root mass underneath your medium just to be sure they are healthy.

scy · #12 06-08-2011, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by quiltergal

I have a Phal. that has naturally dark maroon leaves. It receives the same amount of light as the others. It's a harlequin. I have a Hilo Lip that has very dark purple flowers that also has dark purplish leaves. Some are just that way naturally, so it may not be too much light. What color are the flowers on this one?

This phal has orange-pinkish blooms. The photos I included below are from when I first received this orchid. I always thought that dark leaves meant that it is not receiving enough light. So, does this mean I should put it in front of the sheer curtain instead of behind it?
Photo 1
Photo 2

scy · #13 06-08-2011, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul Mc

That's good to know quiltergal - now you've got me searching to add that to my collection, lol...

Just generally speaking though, the one's you buy from grocery and home stores tend to not be harlequin's and purple is generally a sign of too much light. But know that I know about harlequin's, I'll have to revise my statements about coloration and light!

Scy, when was the last time you checked the roots below the surface of your medium? I'm just curious because phal's produce keiki's for one of two reasons - either they are extremely happy or they are attempting to save themselves before dying. Based on the fact that you have new roots going everywhere I'm tempted to say you are just fine, but I would still suggest checking the root mass underneath your medium just to be sure they are healthy.

This was a Christmas gift from my sister. I remember she called from the nursery and said, "Do you like orange?" LOL

As for the roots, I repotted it into s/h back in March because the bark mix I put it in beforehand in January was rotting. I went away on vacation in April and asked my in-laws to water it for me. During the ride back home, it shifted out of the pot so I repotted it back and anchored it when I got home. There were some good roots and some rotted roots from s/h. Shortly after, it started the new growth with new leaves (2 new ones growing now), roots nubs growing everywhere and branching off old ones beneath the medium, and the keiki.

Does this mean I should put it back in front of the sheer curtain or leave it behind it?

scy · #14 06-09-2011, 06:21 PM

I came home today and misted my orchids only to find that more leaves are turning red. As you can see in the first photo, 3 are already reddish orange. The bottom most green one on the right side is starting to turn red too (in the last photo). When they all drop, I'll be left with only 2 full size leaves and 2 baby leaves (2nd photo).

1. Is there anything I can do to save the leaf in the 3rd picture?
2. What can I do to help ensure that it gets better? I'm sure the stress of mother plant putting out the keiki doesn't help.

RosieC · #15 06-10-2011, 03:12 PM

That looks like the classic die back of leaves from dehydration to me and is probably due to the root problems you mention having.

One of my large ones died back to just two leaves because it's smaller root system (after a rot problem) just could not support so many leaves. The leaves went orange like that.

I notice lots of new root nubbin's so I think this plant is on it's way to recovery. I don't think the leaf in the last picture will recover, but you may get the plant to hang on to it a bit longer while the new leaf grows, it really all depends how much water the roots are managing to draw up.

I've actually found that Phals don't necessarily loose roots when moving to S/H (unlike finer rooted orchids like Oncidiums). However in S/H it's easy for the plant to get too cold (S/H caused cooling in the root zone due to evaporation from the lecca) and over the winter I had a problem with root rot on my S/H phals which I believe was due to this. I lost one orchid before I realised what was wrong, the others I saved by putting on a heat mat (and the weather was starting to warm again anyway).

Along those temperature lines I would ensure you water with tepid water and if you can, put it on a seedling heat mat.

scy · #16 06-10-2011, 06:07 PM

Hi Rosie! The phal came loose from its pot when I transported it recently, so I decided it would be a good idea to clean up any dead roots and anchor it down this time. In the process, I accidentally cracked a root and now I see it's growing some mold (white stuff). I'm afraid of unpotting it to clean it up again, as I don't want to stress it out any more plus I might risk damaging the new root nubs if I accidentally bump them with PrimeAgra.

Thanks for the warning! I did take the cooler temperatures into account when I switched to S/H and I have it normally sitting on a heating pad. I just moved it off to the side to take the photo. It's currently off, but I turn on the heating pad in the winter, when the temperatures drop lower than 60 degrees F. I have my dens in the same set up too. Is that ok too?

I do water with room temperature water to try and avoid shocking the roots. I started misting the top layer of PrimeAgra when I noticed that it was dry (through the side of the pot) to keep it moist. I try to spray carefully so I can avoid the sides and crown. Should I stop doing this?

RosieC · #17 06-11-2011, 04:32 AM

Sounds like you are doing the right things. Not sure about the mold but I would keep an eye on it and see if it spreads.

I mist the top of the lecca as well. Just make sure you do it in the morning, so any water that does accidentally get on the crown will evaporate before it goes dark.

scy · #18 06-11-2011, 10:51 AM

I think the mold is from old roots that were questionable about whether it was going to make it or not, but since it still felt firm, I left it on and didn't cut it off. I guess it's held on for as long as it could and starting to die off. I see this on a number of roots, but since they are not on the side of the pot, I can't tell how much for certain.

1. Do I need to unpot to clean it up or just leave it as is?
2. On a separate note, there is a lot of algae/moss growing on the sides of the pot, because it's in a clear pot. Do I have to do anything about this or can I leave it as is?

scy · #19 06-13-2011, 09:08 PM

Another leaf started to turn red, so I knew something had to be up and decided to unpot the whole thing. I was shocked to find that the little bit of mold I saw initially had spread to all the roots underneath! All of the roots rotted except for the new roots. So I rinsed off all the mold, trimmed the dead roots and then soaked it in physan. I repotted it and watered with kln. I going to turn on the heating pad and hope for the best.

RosieC · #20 06-15-2011, 07:04 AM

Sounds to me like you've done the right thing, and the root loss certainly explains the leafs dropping.

I think you have a chance if there is any growing root and if there is at least one good leaf. Good luck

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