Flowers don't bloom, leaves look great!

[justatypn]

1 tbs is a bit much, I use Jacks 1/4 tsp per gallon every watering as well as misting, using rain water when in drought filtered water w/24 hour standing time. Seems to work for me, but my concerns would be the amount used for indoor growing. Take a few and jump to Rays site and you will get a better idea on your fert/watering program.

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[Ross]

PPM Nitrogen is calculated as per Ray's site. Doesn't matter percent in the starter powder. Matters how much you add to the water. Get it? Seriously, folks read the web pages Ray has thoughtfully posted on this matter Welcome to First Rays Orchids

[Restrepia]

I agree with the other members that 1 tbs is a bit much. You will normally know if you are overfeeding as you will see what looks like a white crust forming on top of the media and around the inside of the pot. If you have this white crust then you must make sure that the roots of your orchids do not come into contact with it otherwise they will turn black which can eventually lead to the death of your plant. Cut you’re feeding down and alternate by making sure that you flush out with plain water once a week to remove excess salts, minerals and fertiliser.

In my opinion feeding of orchids is some what low on the culture list for me. That is not to say that it is not important however I have personally never found that insufficient feeding has prevented flowering of my own plants. We need to remember that most of our orchids grow above the ground and that they are simply fed and watered by the rain runoff containing very diluted nutrients. Too much feed however, is a different matter as this could be causing stress to your plants. I would still check your light requirements and drop in temperature. The most common reason why new growers do not get their Phals back into flower is most often lack of light and drop in temperature.

[Ray]

Originally Posted by Dorothy

All commercial Orchid fertilizers are labeled with three numbers, such as 10-20-30. These three numbers are the percentage by weight of the primary nutrient components of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous or phosphates (P) and Potassium or potash (K) in the fertilizer.

Actually, that's not quite correct.

Due to some old-time testing techniques, the three macro ingredients are legally required to be expressed as N, P2O5, and K2O, meaning that your 10-20-30 fertilizer is really 10% nitrogen, 8.8% phosphorus and 24.9% potassium.

[Dorothy]

Thanks Ray for the in-depth explanation