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  #41  
Old 03-18-2011, 05:50 PM
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King_of_orchid_growing:) King_of_orchid_growing:) is offline
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Q: Is it necessary to use distilled or RO/DI water for Phals?

A:
No, it is not necessary, but it doesn't hurt either.
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Last edited by King_of_orchid_growing:); 03-18-2011 at 05:59 PM..
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  #42  
Old 03-18-2011, 06:04 PM
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Q: Is it true that Phals are the best beginner's orchid?

A:
This answer really depends on the grower, how they're accustomed to growing their plants, and the environment the Phals are grown in.

In my opinion, in general, I don't think that Phals are the best beginner's orchids. Again, that's my personal opinion. Other people may differ in thoughts.
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  #43  
Old 03-18-2011, 06:11 PM
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King_of_orchid_growing:) King_of_orchid_growing:) is offline
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Q: Is it appropriate to use ice to water a Phal?

A:
Let's back this up a bit...

There are some Phalaenopsis that are plainly sold as "Just Add Ice Orchids".

Here are my personal thoughts on this...

It really depends on a few factors...and I say this rather cautiously.

If you live in a very warm climate such as Florida, the effects of the cold water or ice may not be quite as damaging.

Even in a place like Los Angeles, where the stereotype is that "it's always sunny and warm" or "it hardly rains in L.A.", I don't recommend watering with ice.

The reason is that cold water may shock the plant's root system. Or if any of the "aerial" roots come in contact with the ice, the root could get damaged or die.

For the most part, in general, my answer would have to be to not water using ice.

It is a tropical plant that loves warmth, just don't risk it.
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  #44  
Old 03-18-2011, 06:13 PM
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King_of_orchid_growing:) King_of_orchid_growing:) is offline
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Q: What's the difference between an aerial root and roots in a pot?

A:
Technically none. They're one and the same. Aerial roots are just more adapted to growing in a drier environment and exposed to the air than the roots in the pot.
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  #45  
Old 03-18-2011, 06:23 PM
pedidiva pedidiva is offline
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great job, King. Thanks
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  #46  
Old 03-18-2011, 07:35 PM
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nenella nenella is offline
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: Philip!
Excellent!!!!!!!!!! NIce plain & concise info.This should definitely be a sticky for all beginners needs 'growing phals - resumé' Yes!, I vote for this to be a Sticky please Moderators
Thanks again Philip .
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  #47  
Old 03-18-2011, 08:00 PM
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Welcome, welcome!
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  #48  
Old 03-18-2011, 09:12 PM
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Q: I've just recently bought 1 Phal (or multiple Phals) in bloom from a place such as The Home Depot. The blooms were nice, big, and beautiful. Why is it dying?

A:
This is a trick question.

Q: Why is this a trick question?

A:
This is a trick question because the only bits of information being supplied are:

1. You have a Phal or multiple Phals.
2. You bought them in bloom.
3. The flowers were big and pretty.

Q: I don't quite understand... The Phal was in bloom when I purchased it, isn't it supposed to be healthy? I mean it bloomed right? It's gotta be a healthy plant because it bloomed, correct?

A:
Now we're getting somewhere...and not in the way that you think!

How you've posed the question indicates that the factors which formed the basis of whether you thought the plant was healthy or not, falls on whether the plant was in bloom and how nice looking the flowers were!

Q: I don't get it. What do you mean?

A:
The assumption being made is that a blooming plant is a healthy plant.

Q: Okay... You're right, that's what I was thinking. Am I wrong?

A:
Cool. Now I know where the thought process is going.

It is absolutely wrong to solely base the health of a Phal according to whether the plant is in bloom or not. It is also incorrect to assume that a Phal with nice big blooms are healthy.

Q: Why?

A:
A blooming plant with nice, big, and pretty flowers is only 1 indicator of a plant's health. It is not the tell tale sign that it is 100% in good health.

Q: Why?

A:
First of all...flowers are the genitalia of plants.

Then there's...

Sometimes orchids will bloom when they're dying. It is a form of bailout to attempt to ensure their propagation and survival! Not necessarily because they're in the greatest of health. It just means they had enough energy to warrant reproduction.

Q: Oh... So what are stronger indicators of a healthy Phal?

A:


1. Look for strong root systems.

The roots should be turgid.

Any black, beige, or brown, soft and mushy roots are dead or dying.

The body of the roots should be a shiny white. Root tips can vary from being green to a reddish brown - almost coffee color.

2. Look for strong and properly hydrated stems.

The stems should be turgid and firm to the touch.

Do not purchase plants with bruises in the stem area, as that could be a sign of a bacterial infection or a fungal infection, more generally called "crown rot".

3. Look for properly hydrated leaves with as little physical damage as possible.

Make sure they are turgid and not bruised. Bruised leaves may be physical damage or in the worse case scenario is a bacterial infection.

Any sized black rings with a yellow halo effect around those black rings is suspect as that is potentially an active fungal infection.

4. Look at the inflorescence. It should be turgid and either green or green with a purple tint.

5. Look at the buds. They should not look shriveled and yellowing. If they are, they were stressed.

6. Look for unblemished flowers with properly formed sepals, petals, and labellum.

Watery streaks are usually a sign of viral infection.

Small black spots are usually fungal infections (not serious).

7. Avoid purchasing plants that are heavily infected with aphids, white flies, or mealies. These plants could be severly weakened.

This selection process actually carries over to not just Phals, but other orchids and other plants as well.


For any specific questions regarding diseases, the OB has a "Pests & Diseases" forum.

Q: I didn't realize there were that many factors involved in picking out a healthy plant! Are there any shortcuts?

A:
Unfortunately, no.
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Last edited by King_of_orchid_growing:); 05-22-2011 at 12:18 PM..
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  #49  
Old 03-18-2011, 10:00 PM
Eyebabe Eyebabe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:) View Post

Growth orientation:
- Phals grow horizontally or pendulously off their perches with their leaf tips pointing towards the ground.

* FALLACY: Phals grow upright. *

** TRUTH: Phals hang horizontally or pendulously. **

How Phals grow epiphytically:

- They hang horizontally or pendulously off of trees that are usually barren of moss or have thin patches of moss, either on the branches of trees or tree trunks.

- Sometimes they hang horizontally or pendulously off of trees that are covered in lichens, either on the branches or tree trunks.

How Phals grow lithophytically:

- They hang horizontally or pendulously off of wet cliff faces or outcroppings.

- Some specifically grow on wet limestone.
- Example: Phal maculata.
Philip you have such a way with words
Me thinks I hear someone asking how to avoid "crown rot"


PS. Your commentary is wonderful and the time you took to elaborate on the physiology and care of phals is greatly appreciated

Last edited by Eyebabe; 03-18-2011 at 10:07 PM..
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  #50  
Old 03-18-2011, 11:01 PM
sii sii is offline
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MY plants sit in a sunny Southeast exposure window. There is a tempm drop at night. Because of this site & working with the orchid guy at the local botanical gardens, I realized that the seaweed extract may not have enough of the nutrients, so I have been fertilizing with the apprpriate fertilizer. I also use Epsom Salts occassionally as the phals need the Magnesium in the salts.



Epsom salt? I never heard this before. Do you dissolve it in water first? how often??
Schultz fertilizer:


Composition of Schultz Orchid Food
According to its label, Schultz Orchid Food has a composition of 19-31-17, which means that its dominant element is phosphorus (31% of the food's composition), with lower concentrations of nitrogen (19%) and potassium (17%). The higher phosphorus content supports bloom formation

Last edited by sii; 03-18-2011 at 11:05 PM..
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