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  #471  
Old 02-25-2013, 04:33 PM
elfsbeard elfsbeard is offline
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Default A question of ice

I bought my mother a "just add ice" Phals. I did not like the idea and thought it was just a marketing ploy for selling throw away orchids. But I was thinking (danger, danger) in the fall the temps need to be reduced to 58 or so degrees to induce blooming. Our house is usually kept warmer than that sooo, I was wondering if I could but ice on the humidity tray and use a thermometer and see if that would reduce the temps to the right amount. Maybe a really dumb idea, but I thought I would throw it out there and see what others think.

---------- Post added at 04:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:24 PM ----------

I like to mix up my Orchid food , fertilizer, and water 24 hours ahead of watering time. I like to use a plastic gallon jug, but sometimes the water stream is too strong. I discovered the a Mrs. Dash cover fits and screws right onto a Lipton Ice tea gallon jug. Now I have a defuser for watering and am recycling and repurposing all at the same time. Win-win!
  #472  
Old 02-26-2013, 01:52 PM
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King_of_orchid_growing:) King_of_orchid_growing:) is offline
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Place near a cool window, and you may let a small draft in, but control the temperature so that it doesn't fall below the lowest range of temperatures your Phals can handle, (which is usually in the mid to high 50's F, up to the low 60's F, depending on your Phal). It doesn't have to be exposed for long (about 1 - 2 weeks, that's it).
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  #473  
Old 03-02-2013, 06:37 PM
Samantha_JG Samantha_JG is offline
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Hi Everyone!

1) I have a Dtps Lioulin Black Rose in its blooming season AND pushing out a brand new root at the same time. Is that a common thing? I was under the impression that Phals like to do one thing at a time, not sprout new parts simultaneously.

2) I know right off the bat there are several things not-ideal for my plant: a) it's in a terracotta pot, b) it's packed with white sphagnum moss. HOWEVER I've read other forums encouraging "Don't fix what isn't broken", so I'm unsure if I should change the moss and pot asap or wait until the beginning of a problem arises.

Thanks!!
  #474  
Old 03-03-2013, 01:40 AM
Miharu1775 Miharu1775 is offline
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Default I just my first orchid.

I bought it from the Walmart I work at. I didn't want to see it thrown away. I suppose someone brought it back because the roots were slightly damaged but I watered it over the sink and held the plastic pot up so it could drain correctly. I have found a good website for care instructions but I cannot find the reason behind how the plant looks. I think it was just not watered correctly. I work in the Garden Center and this my first attempt at taking care of an orchid. Some of my coworkers don't really care about how to do it, they just assume all the plants are the same.
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  #475  
Old 03-03-2013, 12:04 PM
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King_of_orchid_growing:) King_of_orchid_growing:) is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miharu1775 View Post
I bought it from the Walmart I work at. I didn't want to see it thrown away. I suppose someone brought it back because the roots were slightly damaged but I watered it over the sink and held the plastic pot up so it could drain correctly. I have found a good website for care instructions but I cannot find the reason behind how the plant looks. I think it was just not watered correctly. I work in the Garden Center and this my first attempt at taking care of an orchid. Some of my coworkers don't really care about how to do it, they just assume all the plants are the same.
It was probably infected with a virus or it has severe root damage problems, or both.

My best guess is that it is primarily a viral problem.

If you want to spend the time and money to get it tested, Agdia makes viral test kits.

If you don't want to spend the time and money, you could just chuck it up for a loss.

It's up to you.
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  #476  
Old 03-03-2013, 12:07 PM
silken silken is offline
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I agree with King. It doesn't look the normal colour and way that a very dehydrated leaf looks so it could be an infection. I think I would give it up rather than risk infecting any other plants in the house. I never throw anything out that shows life usually but I think I would with this one.
  #477  
Old 03-03-2013, 04:36 PM
Ordphien Ordphien is offline
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Unfortunately I also agree.
Start your adventure with orchid with a sturdier plant.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
  #478  
Old 03-04-2013, 11:15 AM
Miharu1775 Miharu1775 is offline
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Default thank you

OK thank you for responding. i hate to see it be thrown away. With my cats I am limited by what plants I can have in the house bc they ate my bamboo plants...but ok I gues I will start over. thank you guys.
  #479  
Old 03-04-2013, 01:08 PM
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King_of_orchid_growing:) King_of_orchid_growing:) is offline
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If you get rid of this plant, I recommend burning it, don't just throw it away. Remember what a virus really is - DNA or RNA strands, coated in protein layer(s), with receptors, ("attachment points"), on it. Throwing the plant away will not do anything to the virus. The host is still alive, and therefore, so is the virus. A virus needs a host to replicate. Even when the plant host is dead, the virus particles could go into dormancy. All the virus needs to spread is for an insect that can pierce into the tissues to go into the trash, and suck the juices out of the tissues or cells, and take the viral particles along with the plant juices and transfer the viruses to the next plant when the insect feeds again. Think of viruses as zombies - they are not living cells, but they are not inanimate objects or particles like dust or a rock. Viruses are some of the most simplified forms of life known in existence.

To make sure you understand how a virus works on a basic level...

Scientists nowadays have actually found a way to manipulate a virus to do our bidding! They can extract certain parts of a virus' DNA/RNA, and can insert other kinds of DNA/RNA in it. Even with a different set of DNA or RNA, the virus can still attach itself to a host, (in the case of unicellular organisms), or attach itself to certain cells within a host, (in the case of multicellular organisms); and inject the viral DNA/RNA into the cells of the host.

It is unfortunate to have to sacrifice a plant due to a debilitating and potentially terminal disease, but if it has a viral infection, there is really no other way.
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Last edited by King_of_orchid_growing:); 03-04-2013 at 01:39 PM..
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  #480  
Old 03-06-2013, 04:54 PM
Talila6 Talila6 is offline
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Default Cooling period for phal

Quote:
Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:) View Post
Place near a cool window, and you may let a small draft in, but control the temperature so that it doesn't fall below the lowest range of temperatures your Phals can handle, (which is usually in the mid to high 50's F, up to the low 60's F, depending on your Phal). It doesn't have to be exposed for long (about 1 - 2 weeks, that's it).

Can I take my phal in basement for a few weeks out of the year to obtain the required time to set blooms?

My basement is about 58 degrees Fahrenheit , the humidity is about 60%.
I live in Wisconsin.
If adequate, when and for how long?
I would provide grow lights .. How long? 12-14 hours a day?

Last edited by Talila6; 03-06-2013 at 04:57 PM.. Reason: Mistake in quoting temperature .
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