The Phal abuse ends here.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

Q: If using pot culture, what kinds of pots are good to use?

A: The type of pot used depends on what the grower is used to using.

Do know that certain pots will have different properties.

I personally recommend clear plastic pots for several reasons, and they are:

1. It allows the grower to see the roots for any potential damage before it progresses.

2. It allows the grower to see how dry the potting media is before watering again.

3. It allows the plant's roots to photosynthesize.

4. Clear plastic pots dry out faster than opaque plastic pots do. But they retain water longer than unglazed ceramic or terra-cotta pots do.

5. They retain warmth better than a ceramic pot does.

6. Certain clear plastic pots are designed to have growing orchids in mind and will therefore have the proper kinds and amount of drainage slots or holes. These drainage slots or holes provide for more gas exchange to the orchid's roots.

7. They're relatively inexpensive compared to terra-cotta or unglazed ceramic pots.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

Q: Regarding mounted culture, how does one go about it?

A:

Materials:

- wood (cork bark, branches off of trees that are not wreaking of phytochemical smells, logs that are not wreaking of phytochemical smells, "reptile logs")

or...

- tree fern mounts

or...

- coconut fiber mounts
- fishing line

or...

- a thin string

or...

- a rubber or plastic coated wire

or...

- florist wire

or...

- twisty wire
- long stranded sphagnum moss

or even better...

- coconut husk fiber
- scissors
- tape

Tip #1: Place the roots on top of either the moss or the coconut husk fiber not below. Work some of the material over certain parts of the roots, do not cover the entire root system in either moss or coconut husk fiber.

Tip #2: Do not cut a pre-measured length of fishing line. Only cut the fishing line when you're done securing everything in place.

Tip #3: To make sure you don't lose the cut end of the fishing line, you can put a small piece of tape on the end.

For further assistance, there is also a "Growing on Mounts" forum on the OB.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

Q: How does one go about growing using semi-hydroponic techniques?

A: I personally don't know. There is, however, a "Semi-Hydroponics Culture" forum on the OB.

The closest I get to growing semi-hydroponically without using semi-hydroponics techniques is growing in a highly porous silica based mud rock called diatomite.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

Q: Why is air circulation around the roots important in growing Phals?

A: Technically it is important for most plants.

But in specific regards to Phals, there are 3 reasons:

1. They grow epiphytically or lithophytically with their roots exposed to the air.

2. Like most plants, they have the ability to breathe through their roots.

3. Adequate exposure to air helps dry the roots out before the plant gets over hydrated. Too much water can potentially make the cells burst.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

Q: If I decide to pollinate the flowers, how long will it take for the seed capsules to mature?

A: In general, the answer is anywhere between 6 months to 1 1/2 yrs, depending on what you've got.

[WillisWill]

Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:)

Q: How does one induce a Phal to bloom?

A: Simple! By dropping the temperatures down to a range of 55 F to 75 F (13 C - 24 C).

I have a phal putting out a spike, which is probably ~50% of its expected height - when should I begin controlling the temperature?

btw - thanks for putting this FAQ together, very helpful!

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

Originally Posted by WillisWill

I have a phal putting out a spike, which is probably ~50% of its expected height - when should I begin controlling the temperature?

btw - thanks for putting this FAQ together, very helpful!

You're welcome.

After the temperature drop, you have the option to wait 2 - 3 months before raising temperatures again.

It technically doesn't have to experience that long of a cool period, but whatever. The shortest cool period it has to receive to initiate a spike is really only about a couple weeks to 1 month.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

Q: How does a Phal relative like Kingidium or Doritis fit into the scheme of things?

A: They are very similar in cultivation to Phals proper. Although I'd say that it's probably better to grow Kingidiums mounted.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

Q: Some of my Phals have inflorescences that don't grow upright, what's wrong?

A: There's nothing necessarily wrong with them. Some species or certain hybrids do not have inflorescences that grow upright. A good example of this would be Phal bellina and it's hybrids.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

Q: What causes bud blast in Phals?

A: Bud blast can happen to other plants too, not just Phals. In this case, we'll be talking about Phals, although the causes are not specific to them.

There are numerous causes of it, and not necessarily all encountered at once either.

Some are:

1. Transport shock.
2. Temperature shock.
3. Severe root damage.
4. Low humidity.
5. Root disturbance (not with all Phals only the more sensitive ones).
6. Weak plant.