What's happening to my phal?

[dounoharm]

the flowers or branches only come from the 'nodes' on the stem, the marks are on the actual stem....i would think that they were made by the clips, maybe before you recieved the orchid they were bruised there and the clips moved around....and the scars just now started showing....it looks like mechanical damage of some sort...gl

[scy]

Hi Philip & Bob,

Here's a picture of what the actual leaf color is. It was a lot darker before but I moved my sheer curtain to give it more light. So far, it hasn't shown any signs of leaf burn (except for that dry spot down the center of the leaf, but that was there when I received it.). I do feel the leaves periodically throughout the day and move it back accordingly if it feels hot.

Please let me know if there's something that I'm doing wrong. Thanks! Also, a big thanks to everyone who tried to help me figure out what was wrong! I'm so grateful that there are so many kind people here to help! I guess for now, I'll just keep a watchful eye for any changes.

Susan

Originally Posted by BobInBonita

The "spots" don't look concerning to me, but I agree with Phil that the leaf color seems very dark. If it is the same color in real life as in the picture, I would gradually increase the amount of light it is getting. I try for an olive green with a slight reddish tint at the edges.

[BobInBonita]

It looks much better in this picture. It is hard to judge the tint with teh red background, but it looks pretty close to optimum.

The next thing to remember is water. Because your plant is metabolizing faster it will need a little more water than when it was in darker conditions. I've always felt that a fast growing plant is generally healthier and able to resist other problems than one that is at a lower growth rate.

As spring creeps up, keep a close eye so it doesn't get too bright.

Keep us posted on how it goes. Best of luck.

[scy]

There is a reddish tint on the sides and more along the underside of the leaf. Sorry the table with the red cloth had the best natural light. As for watering, I have a wooden skewer in the medium and I check it everyday and water when it's almost bone dry. Right now, it's once every 7 days. I have a heating pad on for it at night so the temps don't get too low. Thanks again!

[Paul Mc]

How low do your temperatures get? I'm assuming you are keeping it in the house. Phal's actually do best when they can feel a bit of temperature drop (seasonal and daily). In fact, to get them to rebloom they will need to experience that change in temperature (usually about 10 to 15 degrees between day and night).

[scy]

Hi Paul! I keep my orchids indoors on a windowsill. Currently, the low temperatures are 45-50 F. I keep my phal on a heating pad at night and unplug it during the day. If it's a cloudy day, day temps are 60-70 F. If it's sunny, day temps are 80-90 F. I also feel the leaves to make sure it is not hot to the touch and move it back accordingly.

Susan

Originally Posted by Paul Mc

How low do your temperatures get? I'm assuming you are keeping it in the house. Phal's actually do best when they can feel a bit of temperature drop (seasonal and daily). In fact, to get them to rebloom they will need to experience that change in temperature (usually about 10 to 15 degrees between day and night).

[Paul Mc]

Oh wow, your windows do get cold! Now I understand the need for the heater, lol...

I'm no expert on phal's, but I think 40's to lower 50's might be pushing it a bit as far as the lower end goes.

[scy]

I've read that for phals, the night temperature should be above 60 F and night temps to 55 F are ideal in the Fall to initiate spikes. I bought the heating pad for my dendrobium in s/h and this phal to ensure it can survive the winter. The orchids are along a bay window in a very large open space so the central air never really warms the area although the vent is right above them.

I'm starting to realize that perhaps the perfect orchid for me are cool growing cymbidiums, plus I love their giant flowers! I have a cymbidium with 2 shoots growing from bare root. They're currently, 1 foot tall. How long do you think I'll have to wait before I will see flowers?

Originally Posted by Paul Mc

Oh wow, your windows do get cold! Now I understand the need for the heater, lol...

I'm no expert on phal's, but I think 40's to lower 50's might be pushing it a bit as far as the lower end goes.

[Paul Mc]

I don't know much about cym's I'm afraid. I've had one for almost two years and have yet to get it to rebloom. I fear that the first time around was my fault, but this year I'm perplexed, lol...

Generally speaking, I believe it takes about 2 to 3 years for babies to start blooming. That being said, I know some are different and may bloom earlier/later.

[scy]

Doh! 2-3 years? Does anyone know of a reputable place where I can purchase cool growing cymbidiums at reasonable or low prices?