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  #11  
Old 02-20-2011, 04:56 PM
Becca Becca is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scy View Post
So the old canes won't grow new roots?
No, new roots will not grow on the old canes.
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  #12  
Old 02-20-2011, 04:57 PM
quiltergal quiltergal is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scy View Post
So the old canes won't grow new roots?
That is correct. On most sympodial orchids you only get new roots from new growth. On my Phal type dendrobium the new roots don't start growing until the cane has matured.
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  #13  
Old 02-20-2011, 04:58 PM
Becca Becca is offline
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Originally Posted by scy View Post
I have a small cane that I sphagged and bagged to save. It originally broke off the one in the photo in the original post. Since it broke off, it has a new growth and even has several tiny leaves. It has a total of 4 small roots about 1/2 - 1/4" each. If it puts all of its energy into putting new leaves, when can I remove it from its enclosure since there is less than 4" of total root?

I have it closed off in a small tuberware with 2 small holes (as in semi-hydroponics containers) for air circulation. The small cane is getting close to the top of the lid. Is there anything I can do to get it to focus more on root growth so I can eventually work towards removing the top lid and out of intensive care?

Susan
Is the new growth a keiki somewhere on the middle of the cane or an actual new growth from the base of the plant? I picture would help us to give you a better answer on this.
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  #14  
Old 02-20-2011, 05:14 PM
johnblagg johnblagg is offline
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some times new roots will grow from a old cane but not usually ...your seeing new canes starting from the old ones at the base
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  #15  
Old 02-20-2011, 05:19 PM
scy scy is offline
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Oops it's not growing in tuberware but a plastic cup with 2 holes drilled into it. It's growing from the base.

Last edited by scy; 05-16-2011 at 10:52 AM..
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  #16  
Old 02-20-2011, 06:50 PM
Becca Becca is offline
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That looks like a new growth from an old cane. I'd leave it how you have it until the roots get longer. It looks like you are growing it in a semi-hydroponics style. If the roots grow down into the LECA with all the moisture then that is what they will be adapted to and when the time comes to move it to a new container you can just simply move it with the current potting medium. Be careful not to disturb the roots to much, the tips can be pretty sensitive when the roots are so young. I'd have to say it is looking good and keep up the good work!
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  #17  
Old 02-20-2011, 07:26 PM
scy scy is offline
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Yes, I plan on growing it through semi-hydroponics. Since I have it covered up at the top, I do have to take it out a few times a week and rinse out any white fuzz that develops. I try to repot it somewhat around the PrimeAgra to surround the roots so it will stand upright. Now looking at the last photo, it seems to be growing another root. Since I do have to rinse out mold every few days to a week, will the PrimeAgra bumping the roots damage it? I noticed that the roots grew until 1/4 - 1/2" and slowed in growth. I keep the PrimeAgra moist with diluted rooting hormone. Is there anything else I can do to get the roots growing longer? I'd like to remove the top and not worry about the mold.
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  #18  
Old 02-20-2011, 07:33 PM
Becca Becca is offline
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You do risk bumping the root tips and damaging them. Maybe you can start taking the cover off a little each day to allow some air circulation....say an hour the first couple of days and then slowly increase the amount of time the cover is off over a week or so to acclimate the plant to lower humidity and perhaps you won't have the mold issue and it can start growing like normal since it has roots starting. That is just my thoughts, maybe someone else can give us their opinions.
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  #19  
Old 02-26-2011, 02:02 PM
scy scy is offline
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I took your advice and no more fuzz! I do keep it covered at night since the temperature drops to around 50 F, but it's on a heating pad, so that does help.

I took the larger dendrobium (in first post) to the sink to water and noticed as I was turning it to evenly water, that there was another growth on the back side! *cheers* I saw 2 more dormant eyes that will probably open up in the future. I didn't know that so many canes can develop around the same time frame. I thought maybe 1 or 2.

Just wanted to clarify this as I was not sure:
1. Will it only flower through the top of the cane once the cane is developed and mature? How long does this process take?

2. Once it is done flowering, how do I properly prune it? Do I just let the individual flowers drop on their own and leave everything else in tact or cut the whole stalk up to the top most leaf?

2a. If I do have to cut the whole stalk up to the top most leaf, does this mean that every year (during growth season), it will grow a new cane and then bloom again from the new one, leaving the last season's cane to be used for backup reserves?

Thanks in advance for helping clarify things.

Susan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Becca View Post
You do risk bumping the root tips and damaging them. Maybe you can start taking the cover off a little each day to allow some air circulation....say an hour the first couple of days and then slowly increase the amount of time the cover is off over a week or so to acclimate the plant to lower humidity and perhaps you won't have the mold issue and it can start growing like normal since it has roots starting. That is just my thoughts, maybe someone else can give us their opinions.
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  #20  
Old 02-26-2011, 05:01 PM
Orchid126 Orchid126 is offline
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Dendrobiums are propogated on old canes. You can cut them into chunks, or lay the old cane across the medium, and roots and leaves should come from the joints. The new baby will eventually root and then grow leaves, and then hopefully new canes. Before the young plant blooms it will need to grow at least three new canes.
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