All-around help!

[kmdean]

Hello!

I just got my first orchid on Saturday, and am a bit overwhelmed regarding its care. I would really appreciate some help and advice on the following questions!

I received the plant as a present, and the tag reads "Phal. White Dream 'V3'.

1. The orchid is currently in a terra cotta pot with five holes around the bottom and is potted in mossy looking material. Is this appropriate?

2. My plant is by a north-facing window. Is this OK?

3. There are multiple roots growing out of the base of the plant and hanging over the sides of the pot. Should these be trimmed, or what should I do with them?

4. I have read that I should water my plant 1-2 times a week, and fertilize it once a month. True?

5. There is one open flower and four buds. The open flower is wilting today. Is this because of a change in environment? Can I bring it back?

6. How long do flowers last once they have bloomed?

THANK YOU so much for your help!! I can't wait to take care of my beautiful orchid!

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

Originally Posted by kmdean

I received the plant as a present, and the tag reads "Phal. White Dream 'V3'.

Hi! Welcome to the OB!

1st off - good! It's a named variety, congratulations! Hang onto the name, it'll help you out later down the line.

Phalaenopsis is the full genus name. Phal, is the abbreviated version of it.

Phals are also known as "Moth Orchids".

Originally Posted by kmdean

1. The orchid is currently in a terra cotta pot with five holes around the bottom and is potted in mossy looking material. Is this appropriate?

While there are many opinions on this matter, I can only give you mine.

And my answer is, no, it isn't in an appropriate potting mix.

Please replace it with medium or large grade bark.

Originally Posted by kmdean

2. My plant is by a north-facing window. Is this OK?

Bright shade is all I can say, I don't know about the directional window exposures thingy.

Originally Posted by kmdean

3. There are multiple roots growing out of the base of the plant and hanging over the sides of the pot. Should these be trimmed, or what should I do with them?

Do not trim living roots at all, under any circumstance!

It may be time to repot into a larger pot, idk.

You'd need to post a picture of it for people to see.

Originally Posted by kmdean

4. I have read that I should water my plant 1-2 times a week, and fertilize it once a month. True?

Yes, and no.

That's "training wheel advice".

To be explained in ridiculously great detail afterwards.

Originally Posted by kmdean

5. There is one open flower and four buds. The open flower is wilting today. Is this because of a change in environment?

Maybe, maybe not. Lots of variables need to be taken into consideration, not necessarily just one.

Originally Posted by kmdean

Can I bring it back?

No, you cannot bring back the wilting flower. It's done. Forget about it, you've got 4 more buds.

Originally Posted by kmdean

6. How long do flowers last once they have bloomed?

The answer varies according to the type of Phal in question.

I've never owned the specific man-made hybrid you own, so I don't know the specific answer.

A general rule of thumb would be at least 1 week, or about 2-3 weeks on average, up to a month at best.

Originally Posted by kmdean

THANK YOU so much for your help!! I can't wait to take care of my beautiful orchid!

It'll soon become an obsession!

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

Here're some additional information:

1. The roots have photosynthetic abilities, it might be to your advantage to use a clear plastic pot that's used specifically for orchids in mind.

2. Use a pot that only fits the root mass snug enough to not break any roots.

3. Phals don't grow upright.

4. Don't turn the orchid while it is growing it's flower spike or while it is in bud or in bloom. The flowers will twist in all sorts of directions, as it will point in the direction of the light source.

Here're the conditions that Phals like:

50% - 80% humidity

Intermediate to warm temperatures (60 F - 90 F)

Bright shade.

Moderate to good air circulation.


Habitat info for wild Phals:

They are largely a group of orchids that grow all over Asia.

Most man-made hybrid Phals have their ancestry in Phal species originating in tropical Southeast Asian jungles.

These jungles are diverse. Some Phals are found in swamp forests. Others are found in limestone rain forests (aka karst forests).

If you hurry up and do a quick search within these next few days, you'll be able to catch some info I posted about the seasonal rain information of most Phals, in some previous posts.

You will also find some links to some photos and blogs of Phals in the wild.

There is also a plethora of information about Phals on the OB.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

When posting photos here on the OB, keep in mind that it'll only post up pictures that are no larger than 600 x 600 pixels.

[Paul Mc]

Well, you've come to the right place. You'll find folks here are very sincere about helping others by giving their thoughts and experiences!

So, I'm probably going to overwhelm you with information, but here it goes, lol...

1.) Terra cotta and clay pots are fine for phal's as they tend to release excess water. But watch out for mineral deposits forming in and outside the pot as these can kill an orchid. Without a picture it's hard to tell what it's potted in but my guess would be some form of commercial sphagnum moss. If you aren't afraid of losing the flowers then I'd very very carefully remove the original potting medium to examine the roots and plant it in a bark based medium (not Miracle Gro or other commercial orchid mix though). The roots need to be able to breath and get air. If you do leave it in sphagnum moss, you should be aware that while the parts you can see are dry, often times the insides are still dripping wet which can kill phal's if you're not careful. My recommendation would be to repot it being very careful to not damage the roots. You might want to soak it in water to help the roots become a bit more flexible while working with it.

2.) A north facing window may work. If you can see a somewhat shady shadow behind your phal then it's probably in the right amount of light. If you can't see any shadow or the shadow has definite edges, then it's not enough light/too much light. This really depends upon how your house is positioned and what blocks the sun.

3.) Never trim the roots if they are alive. If they are paper-like or mushy then they are bad and should be cut off. Be sure to use a sterilized cutting tool and dust the cut lightly with cinnamon (regular store bought for cooking). The cinnamon helps to reduce the risk of infection and bacterias. It's also quite common for phal's to produce "aerial" roots which do not go down into the ground. When you repot, if you can get the roots down into the pot. But if you think you may damage them then just leave them be.

4.) Watering depends upon you and your environment (a.k.a. how fast your medium dries out). Mine are in bark mixtures and get watered at least once a week, sometimes twice if they get really dry. Phal's like a somewhat dry spell in the fall and winter months generally, though not totally dry as that would kill any plant. In regards to fertilizer, it really just depends on how you want to do it. There are many takes on this. I have never used fertilizer on my phal's and they have rebloomed. Though I have seen pictures of those who did tests on phal's (one year no fertilizer, next year w/) and WOW. The general suggestion is to fertilize weakly weekly (use 1/4th of what is recommended for weakly watering) and then on the 3rd or 4th week just water with plain water to rinse any salt accumulations. Use urea free fertilizers only.

5.) Generally, once flowers begin to wilt you cannot get them back. It may have been an environmental change (from the store to your house). With new orchids, this is the primary cause of premature bloom wilt and drop. Not to mention you don't know how long it's been in bloom when you bought it. As for the new buds, unless they wilt due to environmental change/stress you should be set for four more.

6.) Each plant has a different amount of time the flowers stay in bloom. Most of my phal's have just started opening their blooms this weekend and will still have several to many left around Father's Day weekend. That being said, once the flowers do wilt (or drop off) don't cut the spike as some species of phal's rebloom off of the old flower spikes. Some do not. It is best to learn what your plant does first. Cut only when the spike has dried up and turned brown. Again, sterilize your cutting equipment and lightly dust with cinnamon to prevent infections.

Hope that helps! Above all, everyone's growing technique is a little different. Sometimes it just takes work to figure out what's right for you and your environment. Overcare tends to be the biggest kill reason for most orchids. But once you get the hang of it, I'm sure you'll see why the rest of us always have room for one more orchid!

[BobInBonita]

Welcome!

Don't be overwhelmed. It's really easy to get worried and start changing things. Orchids generally don't like change, so don't change unless it is really necessary.

I agree with everything above but would add that the amount of light the plant gets is important for it to grow and bloom. Phals DO NOT like really bright light and are easily sunburned by direct sun. Your north window is a good starting place, but if, in addition to being north, is shaded by trees or buildings, it may not be enough light for optimum growth. After it's acclimated to its new home for a couple of weeks you can generally tell if its getting enough (*or too much light) by its leaf color.
Dark green is not enough light
Medium green - better but still a little dim
Olive green - a good safe range
Green with s light reddish tint to underside and edges - high metabolism - max growth
Brown, leathery or faded - too much light (or not enough water for metabolic level)
Light yellow to white - sunburn - move NOW!
When you change to brighter light - always make changes in small increments and watch carefully for a few days. Any sign of sunburn - move them back. Otherwise give them a couple of weeks to adapt before moving again.

I'd add that I grow like those who posted above - in bark mix, but it really depends on your conditions and watering habits. Many people have great success in sphagnum moss (I don't). It is too easy for me to overwater and keep the roots too wet too long. If you can be very careful about your watering, you can make moss work. If the orchid is really growing in moss, it will be used to wetter conditions, and may respond poorly at first to repotting. Often growers will overpack in moss to make the plant look bigger, protect them in transport, and reduce the chance of it getting dried out at the store. You can tell if you slip it out of the pot. If there is a tight wad of moss with no roots in it, it has been overpacked. What it was actually grown in (and its roots) will be inside that layer of moss.

Search the forums here. There is a wealth of information on repotting, how to tell if roots are healthy, etc.

[rangiku]

Welcome kmdean. You will find lots of help and knowledgeable people here. You will also find that what works for others may not work for you. The best you can do is listen to how others grow and decide what works for your orchids. They are your best guide.

1 & 4) I have a Phal. White Dream 'V3' that is in sphagnum moss and doing very well. I put a bamboo skewer (the kind you use for bbqs) in the pot and leave it there. I pull it out and check it for dampness. When it is almost dry, I water with half-strength fertilizer.

2) Typically north is the least favorable light. However, there are circumstances where it is fine. East is considered best, followed shaded south, then west. In northern US, you can use full south sun from October-February. If the leaves feel warm, there's too much light.

3. Don't trim the roots. Just let them be.

5. Wilted flowers stay wilted. You can snap them off and float them in a little bowl of water to keep enjoying them.

6. The flowers on mine lasted several months.

Here's the American Orchid Society culture sheet for Phals: AOS | Phalaenopsis

Remember to take what it says with a grain of salt and whenever you have questions to post them here.

Good luck and welcome to this beautiful addiction.