spikes?

[orchidz]

Hi there!
As a complete newbie I nearly killed my first orchid.
I took action only after one of the two stems dried up and started watering according to instructions given at the hardware store garden dept. The remaining stem stayed dormant for a year or so but it recently started coming back to life and now I have what is shown in the pic. I would be grateful if someone told me what those are and what I can or am supposed to do with those "spikes"? There are eight of them but they don't seem to progress much at this point...

[WhiteRabbit]

Hi Orchidz!

You have a keiki (baby plant) and those "spikey" things are the roots! Once it has sufficient root growth (a total of 3" minimum - that can be three 1" roots, or one 3" root, any combination to total at least 3") the keiki can be removed by gently twisting it off - then it can be potted. The keiki can also be left where it is, so long as the old spike doesn't die, and you can keep the roots from being too dry.

[Jennyfleur]

Hi Orchidz, welcome to the board

As WhiteRabbit says, you have a keiki with a pretty good root system by the looks of it! The keiki will be an genetic copy of the mother plant so, when they come, the blooms will be the same. If you decide to remove it and repot and you don't feel confident about twisting it off, you can cut the spike it's growing on about 1/2"-1" below and pot that along with it for extra stability.

[orchidz]

This site rocks! Thank you both!
So, the yellow-green tips of these roots are where growth takes place?

[WhiteRabbit]

yes, those are the growing tips on the roots. Sometimes they stop growing, but still be good roots, and can begin to grow again, either at the tip, or from a different spot on the root

[orchidz]

Thanks again, WhiteRabbit!
By the way, is there a way to nudge the parent into more spikes and flowering? It hasn't flowered in almost two years

[Jennyfleur]

Hi Orchidz, you may find that once you remove the keiki, the parent won't have that as an energy drain and be more able to flower. Other than that, the usual advice comes to mind like ensuring a temp drop of around 10 degrees C between day and night and elevated light levels. Some people will say a flush of epsom salts in low levels (to give a burst of magnesium), but I'm yet to be convinced by this personally!! However, if you remove the keiki, I'd still allow the plant a while to adjust and I'm sure it'll spike when ready

[johnblagg]

sometimes a little bit cooler temperature will be needed to tell them its time to bloom...and a temperatue difference of 10 or 15 degrees betweem the daytime warmer temperature and the nightime cooler temperature is sometimes needed...it is allmost always suggested for most orchids

[BobInBonita]

You don't mention if you've repotted. If you've had the plant for two years, it is probably time. Most people (including me) wait too long. It won't guarantee a spike, but once one forms you won't want to repot.

If the plant is otherwise healthy, I'd watch the keiki. If its roots show signs of growth, it's a good time to separate it and also to repot the mother (since its roots will probably be active also).

Better to do it on a "non-emergency" basis.

[quiltergal]

I agree with Bob, it's probably past due for a good repot. Once you repot it you will likely see the plant start into a vegetative growth cycle. That's good. It's making energy for next year's bloom cycle. I typically see spikes beginning to emerge in October/November, and they usually start blooming now. As everyone else has said lower temps in the fall are usually what triggers spike initiation. Keep in mind your plant has be be healthy before it will bloom again. Once your culture improves the plant will reward you with blooms again.

I also meant to say I wouldn't leave the Keiki on there indefinitely. I will suck the life out of your mother plant. As soon as it has enough roots to sustain itself remove it and pot it up.