Lighting Conditions in the Northeast

[scy]

Thanks! I appreciate the wonderful tips! I did not know that I can have undiluted sun even in the summer (morning only)! Unfortunately, I don't think I can have my orchids outside. I've seen wild rabbits eating my neighbor's plants. I didn't want to risk having that happen to my orchids, although the rabbits are cute to watch.

How long will it take for the phal's leaves to change colors now that I have pushed back the curtain, provided that there is now sufficient light? A matter of days, weeks, month?

Originally Posted by Orchid126

I also grow in New Jersey. Many books recommend using a curtain between the plants and the window, but that advice is not for the light starved northeast, more for southern and western parts of the country. The cattleyas are almost up against the glass in an unshaded, curtainless southeast window, and the phals and low-light plants are behind them, from a foot to two feet away from the glass. Oncidium, dendrobium and miltonia are in an unshaded western window.

Increase the light gradually. Feel the leaves. If they're hot, the plant is getting too much sun. Move it back a few inches (not feet! The light drops dramatically for every inch away from the window). If the leaves aren't hot, perhaps move the plant closer to the light a bit. The leaves should be olive green, not dark green, if you want blooms.

The phal needs the least light, dendrobium more, miltoniopsis a bit more more than dens, and cymbidiums need cool temps and as much light as you can give them without burning the leaves.

In the summer outside the plants get about six hours of undiluted sun from early morning til noon, and then bright light the rest of the day. Phals stay on the covered patio.

[Ray]

Originally Posted by Connie Star

The Ortho orchid book gives details on how to use your cameras light meter for your orchids. I can't find my copy right now but I'll keep looking; perhaps your local library has a copy.

No need for the book: Light Intensity Measurement

Part of what you're going to be up against in getting them to thrive and bloom is that you have four different plants, and each has culture needs different from the others. To over-simplify:

Phalaenopsis - warm-to-hot, shady
Dendrobium - warm-to-hot, quite bright
Cymbidium - cold-to-intermediate, bright
Miltoniopsis - cold-to-intermediate - shady

[Ray]

Originally Posted by Connie Star

The Ortho orchid book gives details on how to use your cameras light meter for your orchids. I can't find my copy right now but I'll keep looking; perhaps your local library has a copy.

No need for the book: Light Intensity Measurement

Part of what you're going to be up against in getting them to thrive and bloom is that you have four different plants, and each has culture needs different from the others. To over-simplify:

Phalaenopsis - warm-to-hot, shady
Dendrobium - warm-to-hot, quite bright
Cymbidium - cold-to-intermediate, bright
Miltoniopsis - cold-to-intermediate - shady

Granted, there is variability of requirements within each genus, and one can be successful "blurring" the lines a bit.

[camille1585]

I also grow my orchids at a very northern latitude (the Netherlands) also in a northeast window. From late fall to early spring I leave all the orchids right up against the window, during that period they only get between 1 and 2 hours of sun on sunny mornings (which isn't often) and have supplemental lighting over them. The rest of the year, everything which is not a low-light grower stays on that windowsill, with no curtains. My oncs get a nice pale green from the light, they love it. The phals and other low-lighters get pulled back to a table a foot from the window, or go right behind the other plants.

However when I'm home in France for the summer, the phals do really well in a south window that gets dappled light.

[Donald]

Most of mine here in Worcester spend the winter in a sunroom whose windows face southeast with no curtains etc. Never had any problems with burning but I do on occasion check the leaves for how warm they might be getting as the winter sun gets higher in the sky.

[Orchid126]

I grow in just the opposite light. The cattleyas, needing higher light, grow in the southeast window. This window is also warmer. Unlike the den-phal types which Ray mentions that need warm temps, the nobile dens need cool temps in the winter, brassavola "Little Stars", miltonia and oncidium grow in the southwestern light, as that window is cooler.

[Connie Star]

Originally Posted by Ray

No need for the book: Light Intensity Measurement

Part of what you're going to be up against in getting them to thrive and bloom is that you have four different plants, and each has culture needs different from the others. To over-simplify:

Phalaenopsis - warm-to-hot, shady
Dendrobium - warm-to-hot, quite bright
Cymbidium - cold-to-intermediate, bright
Miltoniopsis - cold-to-intermediate - shady

Granted, there is variability of requirements within each genus, and one can be successful "blurring" the lines a bit.

That is a handy dandy little calculator Ray! Your web site never ceases to amaze me.

[scy]

Wow Ray! Is there anything you don't have? I also love the fertilizer ppm calculator and your tips for sphag and bag! *cheers* I took your advice from a different post and put my dendrobium and phals on a seedling heating mat to keep them warmer to help them survive the winter.

Thanks again everyone! I'll be sure to feel the leaves to make sure it's not getting hot to prevent leaf burn and stagger them if needed.

Originally Posted by Ray

No need for the book: Light Intensity Measurement

Part of what you're going to be up against in getting them to thrive and bloom is that you have four different plants, and each has culture needs different from the others. To over-simplify:

Phalaenopsis - warm-to-hot, shady
Dendrobium - warm-to-hot, quite bright
Cymbidium - cold-to-intermediate, bright
Miltoniopsis - cold-to-intermediate - shady

Granted, there is variability of requirements within each genus, and one can be successful "blurring" the lines a bit.