Latest pics of my phal collection

[en3rmax]

Hi there OB,

Here is the latest picture of my phal collection i took tonight, the phal in the top left with the long aerial roots is the first phal i ever had as a gift easter two years ago, she has never spiked but has grew new leaves and some impressive roots.

I would love her to spike, should i give it more light? i use orchid focus for blooming on all my orchids recommended my Peter White Orchids.

I've repotted all of them in a all purpose bark mix from Peter White too.

[Call_Me_Bob]

good looking collection.

as for your eldest phal, i would slightly increase the light and a temp decrease ( but that has to be done in the fall)

[en3rmax]

I did lower the temps at night during christmas but had no joy with a spike well not yet anyway :-)

[Call_Me_Bob]

Originally Posted by en3rmax

I did lower the temps at night during christmas but had no joy with a spike well not yet anyway :-)

Usually it's 7-14 days of temps around 55 at night.


You can call me Bob

[Vanda lover]

Sometimes it takes until spring before they spike. None of mine are showing spikes either, though they are healthy. Yours look to be in great health! I think I'll see if I can get some of that Focus food. It's hard to give them enough light in the winter sometimes.

[rangiku]

Originally Posted by en3rmax

..but had no joy with a spike well not yet anyway...

Are you/have you been in the military or you have you watched a lot of Stargate SG-1?

P.S Nice Phal collection!

[camille1585]

Originally Posted by help

Usually it's 7-14 days of temps around 55 at night.

Actually, it's not just a night temperature drop they need. It's an overall lowering of temperatures (both night and day). Back in my college horticulture classes we went to visit a commercial phal nursery, and that's what the grower explained to us.

[Call_Me_Bob]

Thankyou for correcting me.

Isn't 55F the temperature to shoot for during the Biggs of that cooldown? Would that make the target 60F?


You can call me Bob

[camille1585]

Originally Posted by help

Thankyou for correcting me.

Isn't 55F the temperature to shoot for during the Biggs of that cooldown? Would that make the target 60F?

I don't know, i've never let my phals get that cool (55) and they always bloom for me.

I have the cultivation guidelines for Phalaenopsis from Anthura and this is what they do:

"Phalaenopsis cultivation involves three phases: growing, cooling, and finishing. Plants are transferred from the growing phase to the cooling phase once they have 3-4 leaves with a minimum length of 20 cm, when the plants will be of a size sufficient to encourage a uniform induction of flowering on storage at lower temperatures. Cooling can usually be effected at any time of the year, subject to the provision that the required temperature drop can be attained. A shorter cooling period results in less uniform flowering. An appropriate induction of flowering is achieved by cooling for 5-6 weeks with a temperature drop of approx. 6 °C.
[...]
The Phalaenopsis is a tropical plant, and consequently temperatures lower than 15°C and above 32°C should be avoided. For an appropriate gr owth endeavours should be made to maintain an average temperature of 26-27°C during the growing phase and 19-21°C during the finishing phase. During the cooling phase the temperature must be maintained between 18-20°C. A temperature of 18°C is particularly nece ssary in the event that the induction of budding needs to be enhanced in conditions of inadequate light or high daytime temperatures."

Basically they're grown at an average of 80F over day and night, then moved to 65-68F for 6 weeks, and once the spikes appear they go up to 66-70F (so they grow faster).

From what I read elsewhere, the usuall day/night temperature difference remains constant (a 5°C difference) through all 3 phases.

[Vanda lover]

I once saw a gardening show where they advised you to put your orchids in the refriderater to get them to bloom. The only thing is, they didn't say for how long!