Newbie lookin for help w/phalenopsis - Orchid Board

Minos · #1 12-17-2010, 10:48 PM

Ok, lalal skip the bs about me and why i like orchids. I got a new Phal plant and per usual the flowers didn't last long. I live in Northwest Washington. Mostly kept it inside except for transport to office. the office is kept in the high 70's. no window but i bought a weak grow light and turn it on for about an hour each day about 3 feet to 12". mostly ive been experimenting with the grow light....if i can find the specs on the light i will post later. i did not water until i saw the roots mostly turn yellow from green. i used a generic mix someone gave me like an ounce of some random stuff....i just watered it a few days ago and one of the leaves has seemed to get some life back into it. Most of the leaves have wilted and started to wrinkle on the bottom side. in the picture, you can see the one leaf on top standing at attention.

also the last thing is that since the new watering, i have started to see what appears to be michorize growing on the roots, could be good fungus or bad, just not sure.

katierkincaid · #2 12-17-2010, 11:02 PM

Hi! Welcome to the OB. Okay I canot comment about the fuzz on the roots but I can say a few other things. The leaf tht is turning yellow looks like it is an older leaf. That is what happens when a plant gets older, it looks normal to me. The wrinkling of the leaves could be from the humidity in the office or not enough light. That leaf is going to turn yellow and fall off (mine do that, its an older leaf thats why)
How much and often do you water this plant? You might try to mist the roots once daily in the morning while the grow light is on.
How far away from the bulb do you have the plant?
Do you use any fertilizer ? If so , what kind and how often?
Have you taken this plant out of the pot to see the roots and what they look like under there?

I would also recommend that if you have not repotted this plant or looked at the roots, to do so. If they are brown then you can cut them off and use cinnamon on the cut to seal off anything getting in the plant.

Minos · #3 12-17-2010, 11:40 PM

i bought it 2-3 weeks ago i'd say, and have drenched it once earlier this week--i cant recall the fertilizer i used, but it was just given to me from a friend i used it on water lillies. as i have not purchased orchid fert yet. but i do have a sprayer with just plain filtered water and have done that a bit, like you said mostly if i feel the leaves are warm during lighting, though not habitually.

ive been experimenting and the leaves have been getting warm with anything closer then a few feet away, usually i have it hiding behind my water lillies. but had started out about 6" away from the leaves directly the first day, and the next was probably a foot, and still yet further out until i reached about 3 feet.

i have not repotted yet, but plan on that this weekend along with the fert. cinnamon you say....would that be like the power stuff, just use it like a rooting solution/sealing powder?

katierkincaid · #4 12-18-2010, 12:12 AM

First of all forgive me, I sound confused tonight. I have a bad sinus infection and I feel like whatever I say isnt coming out right.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Minos

i bought it 2-3 weeks ago i'd say, and have drenched it once earlier this week--i cant recall the fertilizer i used, but it was just given to me from a friend i used it on water lillies. as i have not purchased orchid fert yet. but i do have a sprayer with just plain filtered water and have done that a bit, like you said mostly if i feel the leaves are warm during lighting, though not habitually.

I prob need to see a picture of the lighting set up to get an idea of where it needs to be. It needs indirect light probably (most phals do, if not all of them).
Spray one time in the mornings, not a whole lot, its not a watering just use enough to wet the green roots and make them shine. I wouldnt worry about the leaves getting warm so much, just make sure you leave that light on so it will get more than 1 hour. Maybe like the whole time you are there or 8 hours of light. The misting should help bring the humidity up around the roots so that should help.

ive been experimenting and the leaves have been getting warm with anything closer then a few feet away, usually i have it hiding behind my water lillies. but had started out about 6" away from the leaves directly the first day, and the next was probably a foot, and still yet further out until i reached about 3 feet.

i have not repotted yet, but plan on that this weekend along with the fert. cinnamon you say....would that be like the power stuff, just use it like a rooting solution/sealing powder?

I would not use anything not meant for orchids on the fertilzer front. My phal seems to love a product called Grow More Urea Free 20-10-20. I have seen alot of growth, blooms, and new leaves using this kind. As far as the fungus on the roots, you might want to get some Physan 20 for that. It usually treats fungus and bacteria. When you get the Physan or any Fungicide a nursery recommends for Fungus on orchid roots, I would mix the recommended dosage with water and then soak the roots for a few minutes in this solution and then let it sit a minute out of the water and get your mix ready to repot it. You can get both of these on ebay, I have never been to a nursery here in town that has either and always had to order them online. Make sure when you do soak the roots in the fungicide that afterwards all the fuzz is off. You may want to take a pic and show us what it looks like just in case

When you repot I would use a bark and spag moss mixture,you can get both separate at a nursery and mix them yourself (make sure its for orchids). I added some small rocks to my mixtures as well for drainage. I usually soak my mixture of bark and spag in some water before I do repot it, unless its straight spag. But the bark mix probably needs to soaked in water first.

This makes the bark absorb some of the moisture.

When you take it out of the pot there may or may not be any green roots down there, it they are brown/black and have nothing in them, cut them off and cinnamon it to be safe. Also I would not put any spag moss by the base (bottom) of the plant, maybe just around the sides but not near the ball bottom of the plant, sometimes this can cause it to be to wet when you water and rot the base of the plant.

As for the cinnamon, not sure as far as how you word it, but it works by using cinnamon powder (the kind of the grocery store) and i usually sprinkle some on the palm of my hand and touch it to the place that you cut on the plant, or you can just pour it on there. It covers that area and nothing gets inside the plant to harm it.

I know this is ALOT to take in over one plant. However, once you get the hang of how your plant grows and thrives, you will understand what to do and not to do. Its kinda like driving

You just remember what works and what does not.

katierkincaid · #5 12-18-2010, 12:32 AM

Oh yes, one last thing. When you cut anything off of your plant be sure to use some sterilized cutters. You can get a lighter and run it over the scissor parts to sterilize it, before and after you cut.

Call_Me_Bob · #6 12-18-2010, 02:18 AM

I don't think the fertilizer needs to be specifically for orchids. As long as the main nitrogen comes from something OTHER THAN urea.

There are many different ways of doing things. I pot mine in only bark. But if it's dry in your office, Han you mint want to add a little bit of sphag to the mix.

Only put cinnamon on the places that are cut. If oh get it all over, it will dry it out too much.

I wouldn't worry about the fungus right now. I can't really tell from your pics, but I wouldn't sorry about it. Jus repot it for now.

If roots are hollow or mushy cut them off. If they are brown yet firm, they are still good

quiltergal · #7 12-18-2010, 04:44 AM

It is not necessary to put cinnamon on cut roots. It can actually be harmful. Save the cinnamon for cut leaves or spikes.

JerseyGirlBecky · #8 12-18-2010, 08:43 AM

Well, looks like it is not getting water to me. the air roots look just dry to me also.
I am sure you have no good roots, or very few. It needs to be put in a good bark mix. It does no good to water or fertilize if it can't get to the leaves. I hope you have some good roots, even a couple of them. The leaves that are shriveled will not change, but the new will be fine. Repot asap and good luck.
Becky

kjp8128 · #9 01-16-2011, 09:18 AM

Have u repotted ur orchid? Orchids can be a challenge to grow. Transporting them from home to work could put them in shock due to temp, humidity, even light changes. the leaves drop from the bottom up on ur orchid so not to many worries there. When u buy an orchid with 4 leaves that usually indicates a strong orchid. That also depends on what the roots look like. Your orchids roots at the top look like they have died. Hopefully when and if u repotted u had some good ones left. If so you may end up with a nice looking orchid. Wish your orchid the best!

BobInBonita · #10 01-16-2011, 11:44 AM

Agree with most of the above, but it also shows how we all grow differently. You have to pick and choose what will fit YOUR environment best.

It is currently potted (or overpotted) in spagnum moss, which is really water retentive, and the sphagnum currently looks pretty dry. The orchids leaves look pretty dehydrated. It could be because of the dry media or it could be because the roots are rotten because the sphag was very wet at some time.

I think you have to repot, if only to know what is going on with the roots.

Be careful cutting roots. Brown is a vague term. Tan to light brown can be a good root, very dark brown to black usually means rotten roots. If they are firm, they are good, if they are mushy, they are bad, if there is just a thread, it is the central fiber of a dead root.

Orchids aren't necessarily a challenge to grow. They can be very easy. The closer (more equivalent) the combination of your medium, your conditions, and your methods are to the orchids natural environment, the easier they are to grow. The further away, the more difficult.