Mealybugs, spider mites? - Cymbidium
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  #1  
Old 11-03-2010, 03:07 AM
Tephrochr Tephrochr is offline
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Mealybugs, spider mites? - Cymbidium Female
Cool Mealybugs, spider mites? - Cymbidium

My mother bought me this gorgeous cym from Costco for my birthday and as I've searched up about it, I've come across various pests I wasn't aware of, having only had a phal for a year, and not having experienced too many issues with it. Bugs have never been much of a concern since I grow my orchids indoors, however, as I've only just gotten this cym, I've got my share of concerns. In any case, I've found various little webs on it, super small webs along the leaves and in the middle of the plant among the bulbs. It also has mottled leaves, where the a few of them have turned yellow, from tip to halfway down the leaf.

At the moment all I've done with it is clean the leaves with a damp cloth, but I wish my biggest concern was that my cat can't keep her eyes off of it; I dug around the roots a bit and found one root that is completely shriveled, another that's quite yellow (are the supposed to be a pale green like phals?), and a big silvery mess of web in the media (or is it mold?). Before washing it down I found strange little gray balls around the pseudo bulbs, most of which crumbled when I squished them between my nails.

I'll include pictures of the webage/mold among the roots, as well as a shot looking down at the pseudo bulbs in the middle of the plant.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_L1JSS8vd7v...0/DSCF2166.JPG

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_L1JSS8vd7v...0/DSCF2167.JPG

I was wondering if I should re-pot it now, because of the mold/webs in the media, as well as the media looking super broken down; should I wait until it's finished blooming?
Any awesome secret grower tips?
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  #2  
Old 11-03-2010, 11:45 AM
silken silken is offline
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It definitely sounds like spider mites on the leaves and the fine webs on the plant. They can do a lot of damage in a hurry. I would suggest buying a miticide spray and spray the plant with follow ups at weekly intervals to get any newly hatched ones. Spider mites like warm dry conditions so keeping it cooler and misting will help discourage them.

The stuff on the soil could be mould or fungus. Not sure about the balls you mentioned. I would suggest getting rid of all the old potting media and inspecting the roots. Cut of any dead, limp, mushy ones. They should be firm. My cyms don't really have fleshy green roots like a phal, more tan coloured but if they are firm you will be able tell which are alive and which are not. I would try and wash the entire plant before re-potting to get rid of any other nasties that might be there.

I'm sure you will get some more advice for it here. Good luck.
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  #3  
Old 11-04-2010, 06:52 PM
val_and_graham val_and_graham is offline
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Hello Tephrochr,

Your Cymbidium is quite a different orchid from the Phal. Cymbidium are more hardy,and tend to need more water than many other types of orchids.

You have made a great start with cleaning up the foliage. An insecticide is a good option for dealing with your pests.

You have mentioned that its currently in bloom; general advice is that its not a great idea to repot whilst in bloom, as for sure it will put the plant under stress and bring your blooms to an end quicker than if you had not repotted. Ideally, repotting should be carried out during Spring (after flowering). If you repot at other times of the year you may damage the new emerging flowering shoots (see left hand side photo; its a tighter shoot compared to a leaf shoot) and avoid damaging emerging leaf shoots (see right hand photo; leaf shoots are more open and have emerging leaves).



Also, yellowing leaves which you mentioned can be a common occurence and can be removed




Here's a picture of what our discarded pseudobulb/roots looked liked when we repotted a while back!



When you do repot, Use a moisture retaining, firm orchid compost. When topping up with compost the base of the pseudobulb should be at or just above the compost level.

Silkens advice is great - keeping the leaves moist will deter spidermites.







As for secret tips, we have always had great success with a tomato fertilizer (from mid-summer to early spring) in place of an orchid fertilizer. It's high in phosphate and potash, and low in nitrogen. You'll find your cymbidium may need watering every day in the hot summer months. In the winter, water them about every 10 days. Always water in the morning as this will allow the compost time to drain before the colder night temperatures. We feed on alternate waterings throughout the year, but we use an orchid fertilizer with a high Nitrogen content in spring and early summer to promote good leaf growth. As just mentioned, from mid summer, we change to the tomato fertilizer. This change tends to promote flowering. We continue with this fertilizer until the following spring. Due to the watering requirements, ensure your pot has plenty of drainage holes to disperse the excess water. Also, do make sure there is a gap between the bottom of the pot and the ground to allow excess water to fully drain away.

It is advisable to place your Cymbidium outside in summer, preferably not in direct sunlight. In summer the preferred daytime temperature is around 86F, 30C, falling at night to around 59F,15C. Most Cymbidium, but not all, require a distinct drop between night and day temperatures to initiate flowering. When its outside, protect it from wind and heavy rain (which will damage the leaves). A rainy summer could result in your cymbidium having few or no flowers later that year. All year round they need humidity. A sprinkling of tepid water over the leaves in the mornings will help to achieve this.

In the autumn, before frost damages your Cymbidium, place it in a conservatory if you have one, giving them maximum light (or they will not flower during Autumn / Winter). Temperatures during Autumn/Winter should not reach below 8C, 46F


Good luck, and let us know what you decide to do
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