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08-21-2010, 06:48 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Zone: 7b
Location: Alabama
Age: 75
Posts: 1,076
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Jorch
Ok, Right or wrong...here's what I came up with this afternoon. Today was an average summer day here. In back of my gh on a pot turned upside down...in a 3" plastic pot inside a 4" clay for support...approx. 1300 fc...getting air flow from the two lg. fans several feet away-1 under each bench, as well as the very small black fan attached to a shelf, blowing in it's direction...gh humidity at the time was approx. 70%. I also have it sitting on a clay saucer of rocks with slight amt. of water...temp. about 90 or so, I think. Guess that's all. So, what do you think...Good? Bad? Suggestions? Anything? Anyone else?
Thanks for looking,
Vicki
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jorch
It's better to grow this species in the greenhouse. It needs higher humidity (65%+) to grow well.
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08-22-2010, 04:58 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2010
Zone: 10b
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Posts: 1,840
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ok, somebody got in the Vodka and it wasn't the Orchid this time. Thanks for the smiles.
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08-22-2010, 05:00 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2010
Zone: 10b
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Posts: 1,840
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OK, somebody got in the Vodka, and it wasn't the Orchids this time. Thanks for the smiles
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08-22-2010, 02:28 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Zone: 3a
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 723
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All sounds good. It sounds like you got it into plastic in a smaller pot (yay!). Inside a clay pot for support (and humidity and cooling for the roots, btw) - also yay! Hopefully "just right" light - Should be about the same you would give a phal or a little less. Temps should be fine if everything else is - they're pretty tolerant.
The thing that can make paphs a little tricky for some growers is that when their root tips die, the roots don't generally branch. The plant needs to make entirely new roots to replace the damaged ones. Obviously, this is a lot of work for the plants.
The biggest things with this type of paph is the potting and watering. They resent overpotting, they resent rotted mix. At the same time, they are UTTERLY INTOLERANT of drying out. If they dry out completely between waterings, they can sulk for months. If it happens too often, they give up entirely. I like to water a day or two before they're going to be completely dry.
As with any plant, it's a good idea to water before fertilizing. This avoids any salt burn to the roots.
For potting, I like a fine bark mix: I always added perlite, vermiculite, a little coarse peat moss and a little coarse sand to paph mixes. They also like a topdressing of lime a couple times a year (for a 3" pot, a teaspoon would do the job). They should be repotted annually at the very least (whether they appear to need it or not). When repotting, the bottom 1/4" of the growths should be below the surface of the medium. If there are any yellow or brown leaves, they should be peeled off prior to repotting. Any dead roots should be removed, too. The pot should be the smallest that will comfortably hold all the living roots.
Overall, the mottled leaf paphs are pretty easy to succeed with. I hope that's your experience!
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08-23-2010, 05:11 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Zone: 7b
Location: Alabama
Age: 75
Posts: 1,076
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Duane McDowell
Thank you very much, Duane!
I understand all of your advice...thank you. I'm still cloudy about how to keep a Paph slightly moist/damp all of the time, though (as this is what I've been reading about their water requirement). I can basically do this with my mounted Phals, and I'm learning somewhat as to how often to water my other potted orchids-by keeping my growing conditions in mind, but this being my first Paph, I'm 'watering stumped' (sorry for the long sentence). Does constantly 'slightly moist' time mean heavily misting the medium every day...or should I just run water through the pot everyday (especially since the pot is small...about 3") ?? If not, what would you suggest? I soak all of my other plants, but I imagine this would be too much for a Paph.....I'm afraid I would drown it and rot the roots. ??
If you could help me understand this, I would appreciate it.
Vicki
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duane McDowell
All sounds good. It sounds like you got it into plastic in a smaller pot (yay!). Inside a clay pot for support (and humidity and cooling for the roots, btw) - also yay! Hopefully "just right" light - Should be about the same you would give a phal or a little less. Temps should be fine if everything else is - they're pretty tolerant.
The thing that can make paphs a little tricky for some growers is that when their root tips die, the roots don't generally branch. The plant needs to make entirely new roots to replace the damaged ones. Obviously, this is a lot of work for the plants.
The biggest things with this type of paph is the potting and watering. They resent overpotting, they resent rotted mix. At the same time, they are UTTERLY INTOLERANT of drying out. If they dry out completely between waterings, they can sulk for months. If it happens too often, they give up entirely. I like to water a day or two before they're going to be completely dry.
As with any plant, it's a good idea to water before fertilizing. This avoids any salt burn to the roots.
For potting, I like a fine bark mix: I always added perlite, vermiculite, a little coarse peat moss and a little coarse sand to paph mixes. They also like a topdressing of lime a couple times a year (for a 3" pot, a teaspoon would do the job). They should be repotted annually at the very least (whether they appear to need it or not). When repotting, the bottom 1/4" of the growths should be below the surface of the medium. If there are any yellow or brown leaves, they should be peeled off prior to repotting. Any dead roots should be removed, too. The pot should be the smallest that will comfortably hold all the living roots.
Overall, the mottled leaf paphs are pretty easy to succeed with. I hope that's your experience!
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Mistking
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Looking for a misting system? Look no further. Automated misting systems from MistKing are used by multitude of plant enthusiasts and are perfect for Orchids. Systems feature run dry pumps, ZipDrip valve, adjustable black nozzles, per second control! Automatically mist one growing shelf or a greenhouse full of Orchids. See MistKing testimonials |
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08-23-2010, 05:14 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Zone: 7b
Location: Alabama
Age: 75
Posts: 1,076
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CTB
Not me, Carol!
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTB
OK, somebody got in the Vodka, and it wasn't the Orchids this time. Thanks for the smiles
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08-23-2010, 05:53 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Zone: 3a
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VickiC
Thank you very much, Duane!
I understand all of your advice...thank you. I'm still cloudy about how to keep a Paph slightly moist/damp all of the time, though (as this is what I've been reading about their water requirement). I can basically do this with my mounted Phals, and I'm learning somewhat as to how often to water my other potted orchids-by keeping my growing conditions in mind, but this being my first Paph, I'm 'watering stumped' (sorry for the long sentence). Does constantly 'slightly moist' time mean heavily misting the medium every day...or should I just run water through the pot everyday (especially since the pot is small...about 3") ?? If not, what would you suggest? I soak all of my other plants, but I imagine this would be too much for a Paph.....I'm afraid I would drown it and rot the roots. ??
If you could help me understand this, I would appreciate it.
Vicki
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Soaking is definitely the ticket! Partial watering is just asking for trouble (root damage from accumulated salts, underwatering, rot from excessive foliar watering, etc...).
Ideally, you'll water when the plant is moist but not wet. Eventually you'll get the feel of this by the weight of the pot and plant. The pot will get A LOT lighter on the day before it gets dry. That's the day to water. In the meanwhile, there's a good diagnostic trick:
Insert a clean dry toothpick into one of the bottom drainholes of the pot. Hold it in place for about 10 seconds. If, on removal, the toothpick is discolored, there is still water in the pot. If it comes out clean, the mix is dry. You want to water on the day before the mix gets all the way dry.
If I were to guess, I'd think this would be every 2-3 days, but it all depends on so many environmental variables that I'm hesitant to make a specific suggestion.
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Mistking
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Looking for a misting system? Look no further. Automated misting systems from MistKing are used by multitude of plant enthusiasts and are perfect for Orchids. Systems feature run dry pumps, ZipDrip valve, adjustable black nozzles, per second control! Automatically mist one growing shelf or a greenhouse full of Orchids. See MistKing testimonials |
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08-23-2010, 06:38 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Zone: 7b
Location: Alabama
Age: 75
Posts: 1,076
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Duane McDowell
Thank you so much, Duane! Since soaking is the last thing I thought I should do, I was surprised when you advised me that it is best. This is one instance that I'm happy I was wrong! Now it all comes together and makes good sense (referring to the reason you explained that partial watering would be bad).
I use the skewer method on all my other orchids, but the toothpick idea you explained sounds like it will work perfectly on this small plastic pot.
for me, please.....I'l give it a shot and hope I can keep my new little slipper happy.
Thanks again,
Vicki
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duane McDowell
Soaking is definitely the ticket! Partial watering is just asking for trouble (root damage from accumulated salts, underwatering, rot from excessive foliar watering, etc...).
Ideally, you'll water when the plant is moist but not wet. Eventually you'll get the feel of this by the weight of the pot and plant. The pot will get A LOT lighter on the day before it gets dry. That's the day to water. In the meanwhile, there's a good diagnostic trick:
Insert a clean dry toothpick into one of the bottom drainholes of the pot. Hold it in place for about 10 seconds. If, on removal, the toothpick is discolored, there is still water in the pot. If it comes out clean, the mix is dry. You want to water on the day before the mix gets all the way dry.
If I were to guess, I'd think this would be every 2-3 days, but it all depends on so many environmental variables that I'm hesitant to make a specific suggestion.
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