Oncidium Leaf Pleating - Orchid Board

Becca · #1 04-30-2007, 03:48 PM

So I was just reading another post where someone mentioned that the leaf of an oncidium in a picture posted was pleated. I soon recognized the pleating, as I had never seen or heard of it before and just realized my plant I had was just growing fast and hadn't had time to straighten itself out yet....hehehe. But on the serious side, I have two growths on my oncidium and it even bloomed for me late last year (it is an Winter Wonderland "White Fairy") and only one of the growths has the pleating problem with it. I am 99% the roots are all rotted on it, but under the new growths are many new roots. I just can't bring myself to cut off all of it's other roots...I just can't do it! I feel like I will be killing my plant. Is there any hope my plant will survive with the new roots? I have a humidity tray and I keep it in a bright window and the growths are doing great, although the psuedobulbs are shriveled. If I replant my oncidium in s/h medium, is there any chance it may survive? I have heard of people being able to bring back there plants using this growing method.

Ross · #2 04-30-2007, 04:10 PM

Pleating is not a real problem, it is a cosmetic issues at best, and at worst, is a sign that watering was real irregular. The plant will thrive (usually) and bloom on the growth with the pleated leaves. If you choose to exhibit your plant, pleating is a bad thing. I have had no trouble with multiple and large spikes on Oncididium class orchids that have pleated leaves. JMO.

Ross · #3 04-30-2007, 04:13 PM

Just re-read the thread and there is one thing I must respond to - "pseudobulbs are shriveled" Does this mean this year's (new) growths)? If so there is a problem. If it is last years (or even earlier) growths, then that is very normal. Can't help with S/H as I chose not to go this route for me.

justatypn · #4 04-30-2007, 04:24 PM

Roots that are bad should be cut off as well as those that are brown and mushy or papery. Those roots that are white or tan and are firm to the touch should be left alone. Simply place the plant into a new pot, placing the oldest growth towards the back of the pot so there is room for the newer growths to develop for about 1-2 years. Oncidiums can be divided when there are 6 or more pseudobulbs. Divide, leaving 3 growths per each division. Generally Oncidiums are planted in either an orchid bark mix or New Zealand sphagnum moss mixed with tree fern fiber.

I am sure other members can help your decision about repotting your onc if decided to do so with s/h medium. So many have had the greatest of luck with s/h.

Becca · #5 04-30-2007, 04:46 PM

It is the older pseudobulbs that are shriveling. The new growths have not made it far enough to make a pseudobulb that I can see, or maybe I am confused on how the leaf and pseudobulb are formed all together? The reason I have not cut off the roots I believe to be rotted is because I think I would be cutting off all of it's roots minus the new ones growing from the new growth areas....yikes! Then what would secure it in it's pot? I am just not willing to let this one go! I just re potted in about 3 months ago and that is how I know the condition of the roots. It was potted in a bark mixture and I think I rotted the roots when I wasn't much into orchids/didn't know a thing about them

Tindomul · #6 04-30-2007, 09:46 PM

The bad roots are not helping to secure the plant in anycase. I would not be afraid to do it. I have planted a few rootless orchids in S/H and yes, its frustrating at first. The first few months, they topple over easily, and then you have to repot. But thats ok. Its really easy to repot with S/H. Thats the beauty of S/H, you can take the plants out whenever just to check on the roots and put them back in.

mother_earth · #7 05-09-2007, 11:24 PM

I would cut off the dead roots, pot it up in some fine bark that has been soaked for a day or so and add a little spagnum moss, then stake the plant and it should do fine. I have done this with quite a few oncidiums and they do well for me. I like to use the decorative glazed pots with holes in the sides. Brenda

mother_earth · #8 05-09-2007, 11:33 PM

Cut off the bad roots, get some fine seedling bark, soak it for a day or two, mix in a little spagnum moss, plant and stake the plant until the roots take hold. I like to use the glazed decorative orchid pots with the holes cut in the sides. My oncidiums love these pots. That's the recipe. It's spring and the new roots should grow fast. Good Luck, Brenda

Ray · #9 05-12-2007, 09:00 AM

Another thing to keep in mind is that while your plant may be in the oncidiinae group, it is a degarmoara - brassia x miltonia x odontoglossum - and has no oncidium in it at all, so will generally like less light and somewhat cooler temperatures than a true oncidium.

If you are growing it in semi-hydro culture, the enhanced evaporative cooling alone will help with the temperature, so don't be tempted to allow it to grow it colder.

Dorians grandma · #10 11-12-2008, 04:52 PM

Hi! Hopefully someone can help me with this. I've had three young Draculas for a while - two Vampiras and a hybrid. I didn't have any problems with pleated leaves when they were in pots. However, I recently put them in teak baskets with sphagnum moss. They are hung in the same location and I check to see if they need water every other day. Also, only two of them have pleats. The other is fine. I know Draculas like very high humidity, which they're not getting, but they weren't getting it before either. UGH! It's very frustrating. Can you help enlighten me?