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  #11  
Old 03-28-2010, 03:27 PM
Jeffery Jeffery is offline
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A very well grown plant. The leaves are very light green, an indication that the plant is getting lots of light, perhaps a bit too much. In fact, they are pulling back and curling around the pot, another sign which may indicate they are trying to pull away from so much light rather than reach for it. You might back the plant away from the source of light a few inches. Not much, as the light drops dramatically for every six inches away from the light source.
Thanks Orchid126, I think what I will do is rotate my orchids and try to equal out more the amount of the brighter light they will share, kind of a pain in the butt whern you have 19 orchids all sitting in the same window dosen't the Cattleyas like a little more light than the Phals?
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  #12  
Old 03-28-2010, 03:34 PM
Jeffery Jeffery is offline
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This picture will help explain what I am talking about, as you can see the ones closest to the window is more lighter and get darker as they are farther away, the smaller ones nearest are my Catts which never bloomed yet, but are growing well, so I think rotation would be my best bet.
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  #13  
Old 03-28-2010, 05:02 PM
Hedge Hedge is offline
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Catts definitely need more light than phals.
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  #14  
Old 03-29-2010, 02:51 AM
Jeffery Jeffery is offline
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I was wondering about the texture of the leafs, should they be hard and stiff like, soft and flexiable? thanks again for the help.
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  #15  
Old 03-29-2010, 09:35 AM
Pilot Pilot is offline
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Leaf color is not always a good indicator of proper or improper amount of light. Much like the size of a plant being dependent on its lineage so too is the color of its leaves. I have about 15 phals and every single one of them is different in color, all are growing well and flowering. Pale green color is a general statement and should be considered as such. The true test of light is how the plat does over all during its new root and leaf season. You'll know if it is getting too little or too much light.
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  #16  
Old 03-30-2010, 12:43 AM
Jeffery Jeffery is offline
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Normally how long after a plant goes out of bloom does new leaf start to form? also does no new leaf growth also mean no root growth?
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  #17  
Old 03-30-2010, 11:36 AM
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Normally how long after a plant goes out of bloom does new leaf start to form? also does no new leaf growth also mean no root growth?
The thing about orchids and phals in particular is this-- they follow no rules. I had leaves growing on phals that hardly had any roots and then I have plants that grew seemingly only roots! But in general, mind you, the two generally happen for me together and will happen near the end of the life of the spikes. When I see the first blooms begin to fall off and die, I know I can begin to expect a new leaf. Now, with that said, I've seen many of my phals grow new roots pretty much at any time-- whether leaves or flowers, doesn't seem to matter.

With the exception of temps and length of time in light, I don't change anything else. And it seems my phals really LOVE s/h. So I think I give them what they need to in a way aways grow.

One more thing, cutting off a spike has always helped me spur growth in roots and leaves. Just so you know.
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  #18  
Old 03-30-2010, 04:15 PM
Hedge Hedge is offline
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I found that keeping them slightly cooler and drier leads to a new growth cycle, usually in autumn. But some of mine spike continually, forming a new spike as the previous one dies and others spike less often particularly if overpotted.
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  #19  
Old 03-30-2010, 04:26 PM
Pilot Pilot is offline
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I found that keeping them slightly cooler and drier leads to a new growth cycle, usually in autumn. But some of mine spike continually, forming a new spike as the previous one dies and others spike less often particularly if overpotted.
This follows on well to my point that honestly, these things will take on a mind of there own. Whatever Hedge does for her orchids works for them. For me, it seems, that the cooler my phals get the less they grow in terms of leaves and roots but it will definitely set them into spike.

One thing I have noticed though-- there is a noticeable difference between the water consumption of a content plant versus the consumption of a thirty growing plant. As I mentioned, i grow mine in s/h and when some of my phals are most actively growing, they require much more water.
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  #20  
Old 03-31-2010, 02:54 AM
Jeffery Jeffery is offline
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The thing about orchids and phals in particular is this-- they follow no rules. I had leaves growing on phals that hardly had any roots and then I have plants that grew seemingly only roots! But in general, mind you, the two generally happen for me together and will happen near the end of the life of the spikes. When I see the first blooms begin to fall off and die, I know I can begin to expect a new leaf. Now, with that said, I've seen many of my phals grow new roots pretty much at any time-- whether leaves or flowers, doesn't seem to matter.

With the exception of temps and length of time in light, I don't change anything else. And it seems my phals really LOVE s/h. So I think I give them what they need to in a way aways grow.

One more thing, cutting off a spike has always helped me spur growth in roots and leaves. Just so you know.
Thats what I did with my 1st 3 Phals going out of blooms, cut back the Spikes and of the 3, 2 are growing a new leaf, just 1 though.

I guess you really can't check the roots to see what there doing.

I also have to question my repotting skills, when repotting I did leave part of the crown above the medium being used, but then I covered the rest in sphag, covering the rest of the crown.
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