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03-19-2010, 09:59 AM
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Jr. Member
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 16
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New Phalaenopsis with many bloomed offshoots; how to care?
I just bought this new phalaenopsis orchid from Home Depot on sale for $10. The reason for the price reduction is because the blooms began to wilt on one offshoot of the spike, but two offshoots still have blooms, and altogether it still looks nice!
I want to make sure this one safely ends its blooming period and re-enters it healthy, as my last one did not fair so well (nearly died, still in recovery and I'm hoping it will survive).
I've attached pictures that show the entire orchid, it's multiple off-shoot spikes (still has a few blooms, but must be at the end of its cycle as wilting has begun), and a close up of the rooting medium (the moss is only on top, below is all fir-bark).
First, I'm wondering how I should treat the multipe spikes once the blossoms all drop, because I want it to bloom the same way (multiple offshoots in bloom look beautiful), so I don't really want to cut them off... What is the best way to proceed?
I'm aware that it definitely needs to be repotted (the pot is FULLY rootbound), but I won't disturb it until it has completely ended its flowering cycle. Just for my own knowledge, are the open roots at the base okay like that? I'm assuming they are this way because it doesn't seem to have aerial roots now?
I have it in a west-facing window (all windows face west in my apartment), I live in Toronto Canada, the temperature is about 15 C or 59 F daytime, 7 C or 44 F at night. It receives indirect sunlight. I water once a week (or as needed) on and off with fertilizer (19-31-17 from Schlutz), and mist (not the blooms) every other day.
Also, any tips on the current state of my new Phal? How to keep it blooming (if possible), what to change, ANY input/feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you so much for your time!
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03-19-2010, 12:02 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2008
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Location: Piney Woods of East Texas
Age: 47
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I would just let it do it's thing. Let all the blooms drop naturally, when they're done just cut the entire spike. Keeping a Phal in bloom may be a fruitless pursuit. Most Phals bloom in their season, then grow leaves and roots the rest of the year to prepare for a good show the next year.
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03-19-2010, 12:49 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
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Location: SW Florida
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I agree with Royal, looks like that orchid has made lots of flowers already. And if it's that rootbound it may be best to repot after the blooms drop and let it concentrate on leaf and root growth. The healthier the plant, the better the blooms.
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03-20-2010, 12:36 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 16
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Yes, I actually plan to repot as soon as the last bloom drops (it REALLY needs it).
So is there a way people promote spiking with many blooming offshoots like this?
Thanks!
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03-20-2010, 03:21 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 130
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Branching spikes are due mostly to genetics - some are geared to grow this way, others not. Age of the plant and excellent growing conditions are factors as well.
Jeanne
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03-20-2010, 11:33 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pharaoness
So is there a way people promote spiking with many blooming offshoots like this?
Thanks!
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Jeanne is right, genetics come into play, but the limiting factor will probably be your culture. Growing it well all year will give you more flowers next spring. The bigger the leaves and roots, the more stored energy for the next flowering. Focus on growing the plant well and the flowers will take care of themselves.
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03-20-2010, 01:18 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
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Large nurseries that sell Phals force blooms out of their plants out of season. That's why they're almost always sold "in-bloom" all year round.
If you left it to nature, they would only realistically have one or two blooming seasons and are not truly everblooming.
My recommendation is the same as those who have given you advice.
Should you actually have problems with initiating spikes during their normal growing season, some of them set spike when they are exposed for a month to a temperature range of 55 F to 75 F, then have the plant be re-exposed to higher temperatures. Although, I'd caution not to let it get down to 55 F, there's not much room for error when it drops that low, 60 F is a much safer low for most people. Keep in mind, nurseries have special cool greenhouses set up specifically for this task.
__________________
Philip
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03-20-2010, 01:58 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
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Location: Lakewood, CO
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You're getting some great advice here, Pharoahness.
I just wanted to say- Good job in asking questions!
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03-25-2010, 02:57 PM
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Jr. Member
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 16
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Thank you all for your input!
My orchid is currently in its natural stage of bloom drop (still has two nice ones, two others are wilting and will drop soon).
The main spike has already begun to dry (its blossoms must have dropped before I bought/rescued it, only the offshoots had blossoms).
I'll just follow its lead, and just keep it in as optimal a condition as I can possibly offer it.
Also, would anyone recommend I put it in a shady area once all its blooms drop to promote keiki growth? It's quite healthy, and I'd really love to get a keiki if possible (I'm aware that genetics also play a part in this).
Izzie, thank you! Must be obvious that I am determined to successfully keep my orchids (and hopefully more!) blooming year after year, and it seems I've come to the best forum ever!
Thank you all!
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03-25-2010, 03:01 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Zone: 5b
Location: Lakewood, CO
Age: 35
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This is an "orchid calendar" I found interesting, it's a general guide to when different kinds bloom, grow, etc.
Orchid Care Calendar
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