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03-15-2010, 02:16 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Zone: 10a
Location: Miami, Florida
Posts: 1,720
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Actually,
I do not use S/H system. I use leca in a regular Aircone pot.
I was not very successful with semi-hydro.
I actually changed ALL of my catts from volcanic rock to leca by accident. I had run out of volcanic rock and had to repot a couple of catts that I had recieved (I always repot when I get plants, never leave them in the original potting medium) and all I had was regular-sized hydroton.
So, I repotted the catts thinking it would be a temporary potting medium until I got the volcanic rock in the mail.
Fast forward a couple of weeks later. Went outside (had already re-ordered the volcanic rock) and reached for the catts I wanted to transfer--and noticed that they had developed a VERY strong and healthy looking set of new roots. So strong in fact that they had reached almost to the bottom of a 5x7 Aircone pot. I compared those to the ones in volcanic rock--and realized that 100% leca and Aircone pots is best for me.
I transferred everyone to that medium and those pots over the next month....and I've seen very healthy growth. As a matter of fact, I checked yesterday (fertilizing day) and I saw 4 new growths on 90% of my catts. It's really amazing how they have taken off.
As for watering, during the cold months I usually water once weekly. During the summer it's usually 2 to 3 times per week, if not daily.
Again, I don't use the s/h system that Ray developed.
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03-15-2010, 02:39 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 352
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Delaney
Ray would be a better person to answer this but if you are going to try true S/H the important thing seems to be to keep water in the bottom well at all times. I'm not sure you can really overwater them in true S/H.
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I was just asking about Plain LECA, and not an S/H set-up.
But on another note, I always figured S/H would kill something like most cats, being that they seem to like to dry a bit between waterings
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03-15-2010, 03:18 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
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Location: Piney Woods of East Texas
Age: 47
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peewee brings up a good point. When I repot, I always keep things on the drier side for a few weeks. It is a little counter-intuitive, but Catt roots really take off when kept a little dry. LECA, lava rock, pearlite, charcoal, styro peanuts, etc. really help keep mixes airy and dry. Adding one of these to the mix may help a lot. I thought the original pic looked a little soggy.
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03-15-2010, 04:13 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Zone: 9b
Location: north florida
Posts: 3,384
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i use the same bark mix i use for all the catts, only a smaller clay pot....and press the bark in firmly around the plant roots or rhizome....cattleyas like tight hard medium...
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03-15-2010, 04:24 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Zone: 6a
Location: Mountain Home, Idaho
Age: 58
Posts: 3,387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brotherly Monkey
But on another note, I always figured S/H would kill something like most cats, being that they seem to like to dry a bit between waterings
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I have to disagree. Most of my Catt species and all my hybrids are doing great in S/H except for percivaliana. The species that I have in S/H are gaskelliana, jenmanii, lueddemanniana, maxima, mossiae, schroderae, and warscewiczii.
For small seedlings I use a fine grade PrimeAgra in 2" pots and smaller.
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03-15-2010, 05:43 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 352
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trdyl
I have to disagree. Most of my Catt species and all my hybrids are doing great in S/H except for percivaliana. The species that I have in S/H are gaskelliana, jenmanii, lueddemanniana, maxima, mossiae, schroderae, and warscewiczii.
For small seedlings I use a fine grade PrimeAgra in 2" pots and smaller.
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I honestly have no experience with S/h, either way. It was just something I assumed from my experience with the plants in regular medium
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03-17-2010, 12:23 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Glendale, CA
Posts: 399
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1st! what is S/H? lava rock sounds harsh, like it can damage the roots, ain't that rock sharp or rough? I put styro peanuts, but just at the bottom of the pots and not mixed in with the medium, lots of choices here.. thanks for all your advice, the hardest part will to decide what to use, so should I just leave them for now and let them get established like someone recommended?
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03-17-2010, 04:55 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 606
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Jeffery, over the years I have seen orchids grown in wine corks, soft drink bottle caps, broken glass, and in one extreme case, on a piece of barbed wire (just so they could say that they grew their orchids on a barbed wire fence). I'm certainly NOT advocating any of the above, and what seems very successful for one grower may prove disastrous for another. I would recommend that you pick a medium that fits your watering habits. If you are one that is quick with the water hose, pick a mix that dries out quickly. If you are one who waters more infrequently, you may want to select a medium that retains moisture a little longer.
Ted, I agree with you completely. I currently have a few hundred plants in S/H of which about half belong to the Catt alliance. Most really thrive in it and overwatering is virtually eliminated. As far as the lava rock is concerned, they have been using it for years in Hawaii and I find it works well with many genera.
Good luck with your plant Jeffery. I'm sure regardless of what you choose, you will find lots of growers on the "Board" to help you along.
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03-17-2010, 08:51 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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Location: Fort myers Florida
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Orchids will grow in or on anything. They grow in spite of us not because of us.
In nature Cattleya grow with no medium on tree branches with the roots exposed. Bark chips are our way of simulating a branch without the orchid roots drying as fast.
The different mediums recommended here all work but work differently. Bark holds less water than coco chips or sphag and not as much as charcoal.
Your mix was bark and charcoal and that is the standard mix used in commercial greenhouses for Cattleya.
The size of your bark is fine. Smaller bark will require less watering and need to be changed sooner. All bark should be charged at least every two years.
Most plants will be wobbly when re-potted. Pot clips are a cheap solution to hold it in place while it establishes itself.
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03-17-2010, 10:13 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
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