New to forums need help with Propetallum Mathina and general info - Orchid Board

Syrinth · #1 02-21-2010, 11:27 PM

Hello, at the local Orchid Society today I won two orchids, a Dendrobium Brazil, and a Propetalum Mathina.

I have been instructed/briefed on their care.

Mathina
-Bright light but no direct sun
-Keep the moss damp but not soggy.
-Cold Growing but can deal with intermediate temperatures.

I have it placed on the desk in front of my south-facing windowsill with Neanthe Bella palm in front of it as a light screen.

Brazil
-Tolerant of most conditions
-Bright light no direct sun

It is near the Mathina.

My questions are as follows:
-I was instructed to keep the moss damp and not soggy, but also to water until it drained through. How do I water the moss like that without it getting soggy? *has never dealt with moss before.

-Fertilization. I normally use Miracle-Gro with micronutrients at a much smaller dose when watering *I use a very fast draining mix*. This works well for houseplants but I'm mildly concerned about doing this with orchids. What is the best way to fertilize them?

-Lastly, is there anything important about the Mathina or especially the Brazil that I should know? I was summing up the above info so I think I'm good but would appreciate any additional information

Angurek · #2 02-22-2010, 12:16 AM

Welcome to OB!

I'm not sure about the den, but I can help you out with the Propetalum, which is a zygopetalum intergeneric hybrid (Zygopetalum x Promenaea). The advice I'm posting here applies to all zygos:

Zygopetalums (including the intergenerics) in general like to stay moist, but not soggy. That said, you can give the plant a good soaking and water again only when the mix is approaching dryness. Moss is a tricky medium if you haven't used it before, because you may inadverdently overwater your plants. Also, because it decays rapidly and accumulates salts readily, it needs replacement quite often.

The easiest way to test for dryness is just by inserting your finger into the medium and feeling it. You can also look into the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot to see if the medium on the bottom is wet. If the medium feels moist, do not water. If it feels dry(ish) to the touch, and the pot feels kinda light, you can water. Some growers can judge how dry a medium is just by looking at it, but I don't trust myself that much.

Zygos need bright (but not direct) sun. Because they have thin leaves, they burn easily and need protection from direct sun. I think your propetalum will be just fine where it is, but make sure it stays out of direct sun. If you notice that a lot of direct sun is going through the palm and hitting the orchid, move it to a shadier spot. If it's getting the right amount of light, the leaves should be a light apple-green color.

Your Propetalum will appreciate high humidity. Several ways you can raise the humidity - a tray of wet pebbles under the pot, misting, a humidifier, etc. I think the tray might work better for you on a desk, because it can look more decorative. You can also mist the plant with a sprayer, but if you do, make sure the plant dries off before the evening. Otherwise, you risk a fungal infection.

Zygos are labeled as cool growers, but I've found them to be fairly temperature tolerant. I grow mine warm and intermediate, and they do just fine. How cold/warm is your growing space?

Having said all this, a good mantra for growing these plants is "balance." They don't like being "too" in any direction. For the most part, they're hardy plants, though they can be prone to foliar problems (spotting if they leaves stay wet constantly, and leaf-tip dieback if you water with hard water). They can grow pretty quickly, and often put out multiple leads at once. The spikes emerge from among the new growths. Once the flowers have faded and the spike dies back, the plant finishes ripening the new pseudobulb.

Anyway, Propetalum Mathina is a great plant. I think it was bred to be easier to flower than most zygos. The flowers look like this:

Good luck with your plants! I hope they do well for you.

Syrinth · #3 02-22-2010, 10:36 AM

Yup, that's my new baby!

Wow, thanks for all of that! I'll need to put a water tray underneath it when I get home tonight then.

By replacing moss often, how often is often? and does replacing mean I need to repot the whole thing?

I was told by the Orchid Guru at our society that Schultz' orchid mix was the best commercially available one to use but one of my friends has told me I should pick the peat out of the mix before using it as it holds too much moisture. Will that be a problem for my Propetalum?

As for temperature, I have no idea. I'm sometimes a bit chilly in my room unless I have two blankets on me but I'm a bit of a wuss when it comes to cold. I really need to get the proper equipment to do temperature testing and such...

Angurek · #4 02-22-2010, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Syrinth

Yup, that's my new baby!

Wow, thanks for all of that! I'll need to put a water tray underneath it when I get home tonight then.

By replacing moss often, how often is often? and does replacing mean I need to repot the whole thing?

I was told by the Orchid Guru at our society that Schultz' orchid mix was the best commercially available one to use but one of my friends has told me I should pick the peat out of the mix before using it as it holds too much moisture. Will that be a problem for my Propetalum?

As for temperature, I have no idea. I'm sometimes a bit chilly in my room unless I have two blankets on me but I'm a bit of a wuss when it comes to cold. I really need to get the proper equipment to do temperature testing and such...

LOL...I hear ya with the whole "cold wuss" thing. I'm one of them.

I wish I had a picture to show you moss that needs replacement, but I don't have a camera so I can't (maybe another member will chime in with pics). The moss will need replacement:
- If you notice white, crustlike formations on it (these are calcium deposits from the water. They are not too good for roots).
- If it is beginning to decompose or looks broken-down (broken-down medium has fine grains and looks almost soil-like. It tends to come out of the pot as small fragments each time you water).

I have a few orchids growing in moss, but in plastic net baskets. The last one to get fresh moss went about seven months between medium replacements. Because I have to deal with hard water, I need to replace the stuff pretty often. If your water quality is good, you probably won't need to replace it quite as often.

I think the Schultz' mix you're talking about is a bark-based mix. Your Propetalum should grow just fine in it - no need to take anything out. You might even find bark to be an easier medium to work with because it doesn't decompose as rapidly and dries out more evenly between waterings. And, unlike moss, it allows for more air circulation to the roots in potted plants. Careful, though - bark (especially when "fresh," just after repotting) tends to dry out very quickly, so pay attention to your watering if you choose to repot the plant into it. What I do with fresh bark is I soak some overnight in a bucket of water before repotting my plants. That way, it isn't bone dry when I put my plants in it.

And one last note - If you're going to use the tray method to raise humidity, make sure the plant isn't sitting directly in the water (otherwise, you risk rotting the roots). Use pebbles, an inverted pot, or some other form of support to keep the plant out of the water. The idea is to have some of the water evaporate from the tray and raise the humidity around the plant.

Here's a pic to give you an idea:

Syrinth · #5 02-22-2010, 11:26 AM

Thank you very much for your prompt and informative reply

I was already briefed on wetting the medium well and letting it sit out a bit before use, although it is nice to hear another's opinion as it will ensure I don't forget. *I also need to remember to just generally clean mixes before use as last time I used perlite I forgot to do just that <_<*

I also knew about the tray and pebble situation and have several houseplants in trays right now. My Neanthe Bella palm is actually sitting on shot glasses just above the tray because I didn't want to bother getting rocks XD

Thank you as well for the details about moss and bark mediums. I'll have to wait until I get the orchid mix tomorrow to know the exact details of the mix. *Currently has nothing he can repot orchids into aside from turface and I doubt that's a good idea lol*

King_of_orchid_growing:) · #6 02-22-2010, 04:10 PM

Another possible way of seeing how the medium is faring in the wetness department...

Clear plastic pots. It also allows for proper drainage and air circulation while letting the roots photosynthesize.

Water low in dissolved minerals gives you fairly pristine leaves. Keeping it in the right temperature range helps with how the leaves look too.

A sign of insufficient watering are buckled leaves.