Sickly buds

[Viperalus]

Originally Posted by Undergrounder

If its after the main flowering i wouldn't worry about it, plants don't often have enough energy to flower out those additional small buds.

I also thought that this must be the main reason. Because if you take a look at the other thread of mine, this orchid was blooming like crazy, I mean many spikes, flowers and it's a great orchid and a healthy plant.

Originally Posted by Undergrounder

And yeah that office Phal. might look fine now, but it won't reflower and the current flowers might not last the distance in its current spot.

Yeap! Today I just wrote a note and put it on the plant... it was submerged in water, almost drowned

[Blueszz]

Hello Grigoris,

you wrote: Yes that is correct Nicole. Hmmm I feel confused (let me explain why). From what I have heard the season of blooming for Phalaenopsis orchids is mainly winter. And something else that I have heard that in order for an orchid to bloom it is good if we give her a few days of lower temps (I don't know if that is correct though) If those are correct then how can these come together: (lower light and temps on winter/bud blast when not enough light).

Facts:

• Most Phal's set spikes this time of the year (where we live). Mine started early October to spike.
  A spike takes 90-100 days to develop to bloom.
  Most purple hybrids set spikes during fall when temps are lower.
  Nursery's can forse Phal's to bloom during on other period of the year by 'playing' with light and temperature.

I assume your plant is forced to bloom and it might just stop it's blooming cycle now. If that's the case it even might skip sending out a new spike this fall.

Some people believe that temp drops aren't necessary to inhibit spiking in Phal's. I've read a lot about this subject and still can't tell

You are right that most hybrid Phal's set spikes this season. I don't know what triggers species in their natural habitat to set spikes but I do know one thing for sure (well, 99% for sure and I don't know if it's true for all species Phal's): day lenght is around 12 hours year round... That explains why Phal's and a lot of other orchids strugle during Fall/Winter in the Netherlands.

Nicole

[Sandy4453]

I don't know if it's necessarily normal but, it is common, especially on Phals that are at the end of their blooming season. If these are on sub-spikes that have grown off of spikes that have long since budded/bloomed, I often see the same results as you, usually a couple of buds, not all. My suggestion would be to just cut the entire spike down and let it get ready for the next spiking. It's tired now and needs to gather strength for it's next big show. If this was a new spike with bud blast then it would be a whole different story but, it's just old and tired now. Not to worry!

[Viperalus]

Since the last time that I posted in this thread she had another bud blast.

But I decided it was about time to react and do something else. Fortunately I hadn't cut anything* on her. I moved the orchid to my bedroom where there are better light conditions (same orientation: East) and VOILA! two days later she opened her bloom! I have moved there all the other orchids that was in the bathroom.

On my other phalaenopsis I have observed the nerves at the outer area of the blooms getting stronger, which tells me that the other girls also are going to open their blooms.
Few! it seems things got better.

* In general I prefer to not cut anything in my plants and leave them as they are unless there are sickly conditions who suggest that the cutting of a spike will help the plant.


The arrow shows the new bloom. The other is the old one from the previous blooming.
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[Viperalus]

I am thinking about adding a fluorescent light. Here in Netherlands the winters have much smaller days and the summers much longer. I have moved my orchids in another window, one bloom opened but the others don't, so it's kind of urgent.


Tomorrow I will go and buy a couple of bulbs and hoods and put them on a timer. At least for these two darkest months (November and December) I see it is a must here in Netherlands.

Ten hours a day is enough for them?

Edit: according to the link that Nicole provided previously, I am thinking the best is to run artificial lighting each year from 15 October to 15 of February.

[Blueszz]

I have them on a timer, during summer 14 hours, this season 13 hours. I know some have them on for 12 hours... I think it also depends on how close the plants or to the lights.
I don't know how manny plants you have to cover with the lights but CFL or PL are great choices for Phal's. You could get yourself a cheap fixture at Gamma (for instance) and exchange the tube that comes with it with a tube with 4000K or more. If you can choose, choose T5 tubes instead of T8 tubes as they put out a lot more light! Keep in mind that you have the put the tube about 20-30 cm above the leafs.
If you use normale bulbs, they put out mainly heat...

Hope you find what you need tomorrow. Keep is updated! Would love to see pictures.
Nicole

[Viperalus]

I have experience from lights because I was keeping reptiles for many years. Although there are using other lamps there with more UVB radiation and because of my former experience on this I knew that common lamps produce more heat and not enough light.

What I don't know is that CFL and PL that you wrote about dear Nicole, could you please be more specific on this one?

I was thinking the same (Gamma) but I went on their website to search for a store near my area and they don't have any information regarding this.


I am thinking of buying this "TL-armatuur Alpha" as it appears here and as you suggested I will replace it with a T5 tube.

[Viperalus]

I haven't replied in my previous post, I have 9 orchids.
p.s. I have found the stores at the website.

[Blueszz]

CFL = compact fluorescent lamp/light. The tube is twisted. With PL the tube is U-shaped.
I think "armatuur Alpha" is good (it is the one I had in mind), but I'm not sure about exchanging T8 with T5. I think the connectors are different - but I'm sure that if you ask at their helpdesk they can tell you what you need to buy. Maybe Alpha is T5 :-)
Ordinarry tubes will do for Phal's. No need to buy expensive tubes for reptiles/fish etc :-)

PS you could get yourself a reflector to direct all the light were you want it.

Bye Nicole (going to bed early today)

Originally Posted by Viperalus

I have experience from lights because I was keeping reptiles for many years. Although there are using other lamps there with more UVB radiation and because of my former experience on this I knew that common lamps produce more heat and not enough light.

What I don't know is that CFL and PL that you wrote about dear Nicole, could you please be more specific on this one?

I was thinking the same (Gamma) but I went on their website to search for a store near my area and they don't have any information regarding this.


I am thinking of buying this "TL-armatuur Alpha" as it appears here and as you suggested I will replace it with a T5 tube.

[Viperalus]

Thanks for the valuable info

Originally Posted by Blueszz

Bye Nicole (going to bed early today)

I will walk out my sweet Penny and I am following too.