yes! the phal is finally repotted. i boiled the bark mix to sterilize it and put the plant in a clear pot. it has only 3 roots about an inch long and a few things i suspect are where new roots are gonna come in. i set it away from light and under a piece of plastic wrap. anything else i need to do? plus the spike i cut off have a ton of nodes. i cut them into sections of a node each. if i shove the ends in moist spaghnum moss up to the node, will they make new plants?

Probably not, as there is usually not enough nutrition and water in a single section to keep the cells alive while it tries.

thats what i thought too then i read this article and got curious. Lotte & Thomas Orchids has anyone tried this method?

Wrebbitrocks -

Sorry to hear about your loss! I'm new to orchids myself - been at it about 4 months now - and I know the feeling of "floundering" through this process. I would sugggest that you get a few books on the basics of orchids and read, read, read. Take a few weeks and track the high and low temps in your growing room, as well as the high and low humidity levels. Once you get a feel for your growing environment, find a few orchids that fit your environment and see how it goes. This might be tedious at first, but it might be a way to set yourself up for success. Once you get a feel for your 'chids and your environment, then you can branch out and try new things.

Also, please don't hesitate to ask any questions, in any format, on this board. The "Beginner" forum tagline specifically encourages users to "feel free to ask if you don't know and don't be embarrassed. We are all learning here!" I think a few of the people who initially replied to your post may have forgotten that. Please know that there are people on OB who are eager to help you out, even if it means sifting through a lengthy post.

We've all been where you are, and hopefully those who were "newbies" a long time ago will stop and think for minute to remember that feeling before making comments that indicate they won't read a post if it's longer than a certain number of lines or not laid out in a perfectly outlined summary.

Good luck growing and don't give up!

This won't help you now if you've cut the spike but, I have used "keiki grow" (available online) on phal flower spikes that have finished blooming. You put it in the nodes to stimulate Keikis.

I got a couple off each spike. Don't know if it works on other species.

Maureen

thank you everyone for your help. i like he idea of keiki paste

thank you. i wont give up. theyre too hard to break the addiction to. im hoping i'l get a plant or two for xmas to brighten my roof and lift my spirits. thanks

Improper method. Won't work.

Read the article again...

This time read it more carefully...

They're using a different method than what you are attempting.

What the Lotte & Thomas site is demonstrating is an in-vitro (within a bottle) method of cloning, using a specific media formula for cloning (the media I'm talking about is that translucent white Jell-O looking gel the piece of flower spike is stuck in). If you look closely at the pics, the gel and the piece of orchid flower spike is inside a bottle. The media formula they're using is Sigma-Aldrich Lab's P6793 formula (Phytotech Lab's equivalent media formula is P793). This media contains specific phytohormones (a couple families of phytohormones present in these formulae are cytokinins and auxins) to induce growth of the "eyes" on the nodes. Phytohormones are also known as plant hormones. In-vitro cloning must be done under sterile conditions to prevent bacterial and/or fungal contamination of the culture (in this case, the word "culture" is referring to the orchid you're trying to clone that's contained in the bottle).

Sigma-Aldrich doesn't sell to hobbyists. Phytotech Lab does.

The problem with the Lotte & Thomas website in this case is that it's way too over simplified.

This method may be way over your head right now.

ok first off, def. use bark as your potting medium. then water only when the bark is dry. dig your finger in there about an inch to make sure.

get humidity trays. esp. in Arizona! better yet, get a humidifier.

the nodes at the base will probably grow into roots if it lives long enough. unfortunately the roots probably will not be the kind that go in the dirt. Phals have 2 types of roots. the kind that go in the dirt and the kind that grow into the air. the ones that grow into the air absorb humidity and help to attach the plant to trees or whatnot.

the "blisters" form when water is allowed to sit on the leaves. don't let this happen. towel them off after you water.

when you get a flower spike and buds, don't move the Phal until at least 2 buds are open or it will bud blast like you saw. ( i made this mistake when i first started too)

Phals are temperature sensitive. they are comfortable if you are comfortable. if you are cold they are cold.
but make sure they are not in an area where they get hot or cold drafts. (i.e. heat registers, next to the door)

did I miss anything?

sorry for the confusion. the page i wanted to post didnt show up on the link. it must've just redirected. i know that in vitro is waaay over my head. it was another method it showed. i'l try to repost it