yellow leaves, dimpled base

[lovzmychids]

I am new to forums, never have been on one, so please bear with me.
I am in Southern Oregon.
I have a cymbidium and have it in an east window.
It gets a lot of light. It is in front of a floor to ceiling block window. I water it aprox. every 10 days. In a pot, with water, setting on rocks, do not let the water touch the plant. Fertilize when I water with 10/10/10.
Finished with flowering. The leaves are okay only have had one turn yellow. Do not want to get in trouble though. The base is dimpling worse as the days pass.
Can any one give me advice?
Thanks for any in put.
L

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

First thing's first...welcome to the Orchid Board.

Now, I'd like to challenge you to use more descriptive words that growers will understand clearly.

So, I'll begin with these:

Cymbidiums are SEMITERRESTRIALS

Semiterrestrials have roots that grow in topsoil or leaf litter, not in the actual soil itself.

Cymbidiums have PSEUDOBULBS (PB's).

Pseudobulbs are translated as "false bulbs". They are the bulb-like parts of the plant that is above the surface of the soil. This plant structure allows the orchid to store water and nutrients just in case there's a drought.

The base of the leaves to a Cymbidium wrap around the actual pseudobulb. Cymbidiums have what are called strap leaves (think about belt strap).

There are more terms, but I believe this is sufficient enough to answer this particular issue. If you'd like, there is a glossary on this site you can check out.

But...

1. Pseudobulbs age. The older the pseudobulb is, the more likely it will get wrinkley, shrivel and die.

2. Leaves age. The older the leaf, the more likely it will turn yellow and fall off.

So...let's be a bit more specific about the leaves...

As a young shoot grows, it will keep putting out leaves. When the shoot gets to be a certain age, it will develop a pseudobulb and swell up. As the pseudobulb matures, the older leaves start to die back. Ultimately the mature growth will usually have two or four mature leaves and a pseudobulb. While the growth ages, the top leaves will start to die back leaving a leafless pseudobulb. Then as the pseudobulb ages, it starts getting wrinkley, shrivels and dies (but hopefully after it has produced new shoots).

I hope this makes the life cycle of the plant clearer.

[lovzmychids]

Thank you so very much for the in put

So by my description of where and how I feed plus where my Semiterrestrial is placed; Does it sound as though I am doing things okay?

I cut the yellow leaf off (it was all the way down to the pseudobulb), I also cut off the stems (2) that held the wilted blooms, in addition to some browning I was getting on two other leaves. If any of this is not right please let me know so I do not do this in the future.

I have 3 Phalaenopsis I have had for 3 years and they are doing well. I have re potted once. They are all in bloom now. I am still afraid of them though and do not know what to look for as far as re potting goes. I am still afraid of when to water them too, but I just keep doing what I have been doing. Same with taking care of their leaves.

What would you suggest as a good beginners book to buy that would give me the information I require for both kinds of these orchids?

Thanks again,
L

[RosieC]

Hi Lovzmychids and welcome to the Orchid Board.

I'm afraid I don't know much about cymbidiums so can't give much advice about that.

As for the Phals, if you have had them 3 years you must be doing something right with the watering. Anyway, just some tips to help reasure you...

1. If you have a clear pot then watering a Phal is very easy. When the roots visible through the pot are green, then don't water. When the roots are silvery or white (right down to the bottom) then it's time to water again.

2. If you don't have a clear pot then another way to judge watering is with a wooden stick. (I've used part of a flower support stick in the past). Keep it pushed in to the medium. Ocasionally pull it out and hold it to your cheek. If it feels cold or is noticably damp then don't water yet. When the Phal is ready for watering it will no longer feel as cold. Push the stick back in the same hole every time, and by keeping it in there you know you are not damaging roots each time you push it in.

3. A third method of judging watering is by feeling the weight of the pot. This is a more tricky one but after a while you should get used to what weight it should feel like when it needs watering (noticably lighter than when it's just been watered).

4. When you water, water thoroughly but make sure it drains well afterwards. You can either water by dunking the pot or running water through the pot.

I like the clear pot/root colour method personally and I only have one plant which I use the stick method on. I've never got the hang of using the pot weight method but many peole do use it.

There is nothing much you need to do to care for the leaves. It's generally best not to spray them and it should not be necessary for a Phal. You want to ensure that the Phal leaves are always dry by evening/night especially down in the crux of the leaves and the crown. Water sitting here can cause rot.

[lovzmychids]

RosieC,
Thank you so much for the information. I need to get my self some clear pots. I can really see how that can help take the guess work out of when to water.
L

[quiltergal]

and welcome from a fellow southern Oregonian. Where do you live? I'm in Jacksonville and another member here is from Medford.

You've gotten some good advice here. The only thing I would add is Cyms seem to prefer a more temperate climate that we have here. My mom grows her outside year round under a tree shaded patio that faces east. She lives in the Bay Area. Overall I think Cyms prefer more coolish temps, but not too cool. I've tried Cyms before but it's just too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter for their liking.

[lovzmychids]

Terri,
Hi
I am from Medford! Do not know a thing about the So.Or.Orchid Society. Maybe you could share some details w/me?
I love my orchids, and have so much fun with them. I am just a beginner but have been blessed with ones that take sympathy on me.
This board has been so helpful to me and I appreciate all the input I have received thus far.
Hey, caught your age, and I am right behind you I'll be there in August! Life is just beginning,
Thanks for your advice,
L

[quiltergal]

Hi neighbor! RVOS meets the 2nd Wed of every month at Annamaria Creekside on 822 Golf View at 7PM. So, that's tomorrow. I won't be able to go due to another committment. There are no meetings in June or July. Regular meetings start up again in August.

Don't be put off by them. They really are nice people, just a little slow to warm up to people. Lots of knowledge there too including an AOS judge. It took me 3 visits before I finally decided to join.

Maybe I'll see you at the June potting party in Ashland.