root rot

[VickiC]

Hi,
What is the best treatment for root rot after the bad roots are removed (speaking generally, but Phals moreso)? I'm confused because I have read that some people use Listerine, some peroxide, some Physan 20....although I have also read comments that Physan 20 is not for root rot. ?? After the treatment, what comes next....do I rinse the roots with clear water before I repot, or leave whichever treatment you suggest on the orchid THEN repot??
As always, I will appreciate any help from you!
Thanks in advance,
Vicki

[Blueszz]

Hi Vicki,

I only can tell you something about hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). I recently used it on a Phalaenopsis that I tried to transfer to s/h but didn't like that.

Maybe you heard before the peroxide is used to clean human wounds too? I used to work as a nurse and when wounds had necrosis (black dead tissue) we used peroxide to clean them. The peroxide started bubbling, sort of 'eating' the dead tissue.

If you apply peroxide on a Phal. root with rot, you will see the same. It starts bubbling.
I didn't emerge all roots in the peroxide, but used a seringe to apply it drop by drop. Next used a firm spray of water to 'blow' the old tissue away. I repeated this 2-3 times and the rot was gone. Once you see it stops bubbling, you can stop the treatment. Afterwards I used cinnamon to help the wound dry faster.
On a German board they advise to use peroxide for crown rot, same method as I mentioned before.

If you have root that you removed, use that root to see how peroxide reacts to healthy and to dead tissue. If it takes to long before the peroxide does it jobs, you can scrape a bit of dead tissue away. You'll notice the use of peroxide will make the dead tissue softer and sometimes a bit slimy.

Nicole

[VickiC]

Hi Nicole,
After I read your reply, I repotted my Phal this morn., but first...I did as you advised. I stole the peroxide from the medicine cabinet, but had to use a q-tip because I couldn't find a dropper (I'm gonna buy more peroxide at the drug store, because I have a very strong feeling I haven't seen the last of root rot ). I guess that was ok, but I would rather not had to deal with the little strings of q-tip. Anyway, it took 3 peroxide treatments before the bubbling stopped completely. I finished the procedure then potted it up. So, now the waiting game has began.....time will tell how good I did my job.
Thanks for your help!
Vicki

Originally Posted by Blueszz

Hi Vicki,

I only can tell you something about hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). I recently used it on a Phalaenopsis that I tried to transfer to s/h but didn't like that.

Maybe you heard before the peroxide is used to clean human wounds too? I used to work as a nurse and when wounds had necrosis (black dead tissue) we used peroxide to clean them. The peroxide started bubbling, sort of 'eating' the dead tissue.

If you apply peroxide on a Phal. root with rot, you will see the same. It starts bubbling.
I didn't emerge all roots in the peroxide, but used a seringe to apply it drop by drop. Next used a firm spray of water to 'blow' the old tissue away. I repeated this 2-3 times and the rot was gone. Once you see it stops bubbling, you can stop the treatment. Afterwards I used cinnamon to help the wound dry faster.
On a German board they advise to use peroxide for crown rot, same method as I mentioned before.

If you have root that you removed, use that root to see how peroxide reacts to healthy and to dead tissue. If it takes to long before the peroxide does it jobs, you can scrape a bit of dead tissue away. You'll notice the use of peroxide will make the dead tissue softer and sometimes a bit slimy.

Nicole

[Blueszz]

I hope the treatment was sufficient for your Phalaenopsis.

I prefer not to water after root rot treatment for at least a week, in case other spots that were not visible for the eye have an infection too. Drying up might be the cure then for these invisible spots. This is why emerging the root system might be good, but I don't know what micro damage occurs to the roots, for example to the growing tips of the roots.

The Phal. I treated this way had rot on the root, close to the stem. This was his only good root (rest was severly affected when I tried to transfer it to s/h), so I treated only the spot and hoped that only the velamen was infected with rot. It's too early to tell if the root still is functional :-)

For these things a dropper is really handy!

[VickiC]

Hi Nicole,
I'm gonna grit my teeth and keep my paws off the "water jug" since that's what got me into trouble in the 1st place. It sure is hard to look at a very dry orchid and not want to give it a drink. I know better, though....I'm learning a little at a time.

Just after my post to you earlier, I was checking out my Epi Mabel Kanda because it looked from across the room to be leaning in the pot. When I walked over to take a look, it was indeed leaning and just about to fall out of the pot. I wondered what had happened, so I unpotted it and the roots were totally dry. All of them. Nothing left.....except two new little teeny tiny roots.....about the size of a pin head. I simply cut the dead, dried roots off and repotted the plant.....this time staking it, since there were no roots to anchor it anymore. Anyway, I hope I did the right thing. This is kinda ironic because I told my husband last night that I wonder when I'll find that happy medium between rot and dry roots.....then lo and behold, I found my dried Epi today

Thanks again for your help....oh, and when I go to buy some more peroxide at the drugstore, I'm gonna pick up a dropper, too.
Vicki

Originally Posted by Blueszz

I hope the treatment was sufficient for your Phalaenopsis.

I prefer not to water after root rot treatment for at least a week, in case other spots that were not visible for the eye have an infection too. Drying up might be the cure then for these invisible spots. This is why emerging the root system might be good, but I don't know what micro damage occurs to the roots, for example to the growing tips of the roots.

The Phal. I treated this way had rot on the root, close to the stem. This was his only good root (rest was severly affected when I tried to transfer it to s/h), so I treated only the spot and hoped that only the velamen was infected with rot. It's too early to tell if the root still is functional :-)

For these things a dropper is really handy!

[Blueszz]

That's funny what you wrote about your Epi. I screwed up my first Dendrobium Phal type by keeping it too wet during the winter. It still had some roots but not many. I potted it up dry for what seemed ages (and still see no signs of lack of water, despite it is in a heated room and catches some sun). Two weeks ago I saw a new speudobulb coming from one of the older one. Yeah! But I'm now very cautious with watering it! As long as it has no new roots I only spray the plant in the morning, 2 to 3 times a week. I had to stalk that plant too and it still needs help to stay up right.

The same treatment for a Den. kingianum that I ordered over the internet. It had severe root rot what I noticed after a week when I decided to up-pot. I keep it very dry and spray it early in the morning until I see new growth and in the meanwhile I keep my fingers crossed :-)

About 2 months ago I bought 4 plants from the same nursery. The roots were so bad, rot caused by a ball of tight moss! One of them is almost rootless and I'm not sure about that one. It's laying in a dark place and I hope it will send out new roots. The others had only a few good roots left but these are sending out both new roots and new growths (All of them Oncidium alliance).

If you have orchids with root rot, don't always blame yourself. I learned the hard way some nursery's sell plants with root systems in bad shape. After my latest purchases, I repot every newly aquired plant, before it's too late!
It's a shame; this is how orchids get the name to be difficult to care for. If people can start with a healthy plant it would be much easier for 'newbies'.

Nicole

[Becky15349]

Wow Niki, that was a massively cool response!!

Just keep those rotted phals drier...make sure they dry out quicker in the future, keep a fan on them...