Help my Phal! - Orchid Board

Calzoner · #1 02-16-2009, 08:47 PM

Greetings!

First off, I'm new to Orchids (about 6 months or so) and this is my first Phal that I purchased last year in bloom. Last fall, when she stopped blooming, I cut the spike back and continued normal care through the winter. Soon after the spike was trimmed, several of my larger leaves turned yellow and fell off. At first I was concerned, but shortly after two new leaves starting growing coupled with a small amount of new root growth. As the winter progressed (let me clarify as I live in central FL and grow on an East facing screened in porch), I noticed absolutely no growth. I have this Phal planted in fir bark chips (I think the chips are too large for a Phal this size) and reduced watering cycles to once every couple weeks. Coloration on the older leaves have remained green, but I've noticed it wilting and beginning to wrinkle. I think I have been watering too little..

Today I pulled it out of the pot to see roots looking stagnant in growth. I trimmed off just a few rotted strands of root and proceeded to add a bit of sphag to my bark media mix to help retain some moisture on my bone dry root system.

I've only owned/enjoyed orchids for several months, so I've never had the pleasure of watching one rebloom the next year. Is there any advise anyone can give me? I've very determined to get my orchids to thrive! I've done hours and hours of research on these forums, but was hoping for some personal input from you guys on my orchids!

Thanks!

beanluc · #2 02-16-2009, 10:45 PM

Hi, so while you were reading Orchidboard.com did you come across info to the effect that it's fairly normal for Phals to have their lowest leaves turn yellow and fall off after they finish blooming? I have a feeling it's particularly true in winter?

Your situation could be as innocuous as this. Especially if higher leaves are still green, and if you see any baby new leaf growing in the center of the crown.

But, it's possible that you could have a worse problem too. Can you provide any pictures?

If the yellow is starting at the leaf bases and spreading out, instead of starting at the tips and spreading inward, then there could be "crown rot" or 'leaf rot". This happens when water gets into the crown and in leaf crotches where they join the main stem, and sits there, breeding bacteria and mildewy stuff. I don't have any advice for saving a plant that already has this kind of rot, but here's a post about avoiding it.

Another possibility: If the leaves are thin, limp and wrinkly, and appear to be drying out, then you could have an underwatering problem or a root-rot problem. Here's a post about all that. If you have never taken the plant out of the pot it was in when you got it, it's a good idea to do it now. See what the roots look like. For many of us, it's just about the very first thing we do when we see orchids not doing too well, and also when first getting a new orchid, even if it's blooming at the time.

Good luck,
BL

beanluc · #3 02-16-2009, 10:48 PM

Huh, that's funny, I see the photo now but I didn't see it before.

OK, so, crown rot is not your problem. Actually this plant looks pretty good, just underwatered.

I'd recommend the watering regime described in the link above. Let it drink it up! It's winter, so, the fact that you haven't been seeing it grow for a while is no cause for alarm, considering that it otherwise looks as good as it does. When the days start getting longer, it probably will start growing again. If by mid-March you don't see any action, you might want to give it a brighter spot.

BL

quiltergal · #4 02-16-2009, 11:40 PM

I agree you have been underwatering. I live in a much cooler climate and I water weekly. My plants are indoors in a south facing window with blinds and I also supplement with T5 grow lights. In my experience I start seeing action when there is at least a 10 degree difference in temps between day and night. Many Phals are or should be spiking now. There are a few that are summer bloomers and I generally don't see any action from them until late March. For optimum blooming regular watering and feeding is a must. I think learning when to water is one of the hardest things for beginners to learn. There are so many variables. Temp, medium, personal watering habits, the plant itself. Good luck!

Dorothy · #5 02-17-2009, 08:08 AM

When a phalaenopsis looks as yours does - kinda droopy

.. it is unofficially yet affectionately referred to as a 'Phlop'aenopsis.

Calzoner · #6 02-17-2009, 10:45 AM

Thanks guys, I'm going to kick up my watering regiment and do the weakly/weekly feeding. I'm hoping to get a spike this year on this guy, but I'll settle for leaf and root growth I suppose!

ronaldhanko · #7 02-17-2009, 10:49 AM

Your plant doesn't look too badly off. I do think you ought to water a bit more frequently and perhaps a tad more light, but it's healthy and growing and that's good!

camille1585 · #8 02-17-2009, 12:40 PM

It doesn't look too bad, your phal. Floppy leaves tend to take a while to bounce back, and even then I've noticed that sometimes they never fully plump up again. The two newest leaves look great though!

Calzoner · #9 02-17-2009, 01:20 PM

Keep in mind the new growth was from last October-ish. Since then, I've seen no growth what so ever. I think I took the "winter rest" thing too seriously and have underwatered though. I have recently put this little guy in an east facing window for additional light and have been watering more regularly (allowing it to dry up for only a day before watering again)

Do you guys think I should mist every morning if its indoors and the humidity in FL is down this time of year?

Thanks

camille1585 · #10 02-17-2009, 01:26 PM

Phals don't need winter rest. They should be grown the same way all year round. It is also normal for leaf growth to slow down some during the winter months, it just depends on how much light it is getting. In the winter watering is general reduced, not because the plants needs a rest, but because the plant dries out much more slowly. A good way to know when to water is to put a wooden skewer in the pot. Pull it out and touch it to your cheek. If it still feels cool/dampish to the touch, wait another day before checking again and watering.

IMO,there is no point in misting as it hardly does anything to bing up the humdity, and water on the leaves is an invitation for problems. If you do mist, then only mist the surface of the medium and the roots sticking out.