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  #11  
Old 01-29-2009, 06:03 PM
Becca Becca is offline
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I'm with the others. I would leave the roots and cut the keiki!
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  #12  
Old 01-29-2009, 06:14 PM
jkofferdahl jkofferdahl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VickiC View Post
Hi,
Thank you for your advice. You also answered something else that I have wondered about: whether the root is ok even if the covering is rotted.

As for treating the plant base after trimming, all I have is Physan 20, cinnamon and hydrogen peroxide. Which of these would you use? How long should the soak be? Also, would you treat the roots with a fungicide as well? I'm sorry for all the questions.....I hope you don't mind.

Thanks for your advise concerning the keiki, too.

Vicki

Hi Vicki. Looks like BikerDoc answered before I got back online. I'd also use the Physan 20. But if you can get ahold of some SuperThrive, too, it's great stuff - it's essentially trace minerals and vitamins and really kicks orchids into gear.
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  #13  
Old 01-29-2009, 06:18 PM
VickiC VickiC is offline
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Hi Howard,
Geez, my thoughts exactly about taking care while moving the roots around. I knew that if I was advised to keep them on the plant, then I best be careful not to break them off while I was rinsing them. So far, so good.

I've never used SuperThrive or Hormex.....I always use KLN. I have never known which is best, so I've just taken a stab in the dark. I had planned to place an order to Ray last week because I am out of KLN, but opted to procrastinate instead. lol Anyway, I will do that before the week is over.....I promise myself.

Now, I've just gotta decide whether to remove the keiki or not and what to pot the main plant in.....bark mix.....sphag or a combination.

Thanks again for your help.

Vicki


Quote:
Originally Posted by BikerDoc5968 View Post
Vicki, for what it's worth The roots on the main plant look ?ok? I say this because their attachment to the main stem looks weak....so take care in repotting. I like a short soak in RD-20 or Physan 20 for 5 to 10 minutes, then treat with SuperThrive or KLN or Hormex and I'd use bark/CHC/Charcoal and just keep things barely moist. I think this combo gives more control over the moisture....the sphag/bag thing also works for some. The root on the keiki is kinda small so you can take a chance and remove it but as long as the main plant is alive and roots hold up, the keiki will live and when you get longer/more roots it can be removed and potted up on its own.... just my
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  #14  
Old 01-29-2009, 06:20 PM
VickiC VickiC is offline
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Thanks Becca! I'm on my way soon to complete my mission (pot my plant, that is)
Vicki




Quote:
Originally Posted by Becca View Post
I'm with the others. I would leave the roots and cut the keiki!
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  #15  
Old 01-29-2009, 06:21 PM
Becca Becca is offline
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Vicki if you want to save the main plant I would remove the keiki! I now it isn't fun, but it may be what is best!
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  #16  
Old 01-29-2009, 06:31 PM
VickiC VickiC is offline
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Hi,
Thanks for your help!

Well, I think I must be the world's worst when it comes to buying bargain orchids. I've not been involved with orchid growing but for a very short time (less than a yr.).....but long enough to know that "you usually get what you pay for". If I've not learned anything else, I've learned that.....so I think I may need psy help since I don't heed to what I know is best. I see a clearance orchid or a marked down one and my first thought is: "another challange....another orchid life to try to save!" Not a good idea in the long run.....I know what you mean.

Thanks again for your help,
Vicki




Quote:
Originally Posted by K.C. View Post
I have been where you are a number of times I would put the parent plant in some fresh sphagnum moss with the roots on and mist often with K-L-M-. If this works and it most often does for me it takes 2 or 3 years to bloom so you need to think about was it that nice a plant to end up on clearance. If you cut that keiki off leave the stem as long as you can even out the bottom of the pot you put it in as the will give it more nutrition and hold it in place. It could just bloom before the stressed out parent . Good luck hope I could be of some help! K.C.
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  #17  
Old 01-29-2009, 06:34 PM
VickiC VickiC is offline
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Thanks again!

Vicki




Quote:
Originally Posted by jkofferdahl View Post
Hi Vicki. Looks like BikerDoc answered before I got back online. I'd also use the Physan 20. But if you can get ahold of some SuperThrive, too, it's great stuff - it's essentially trace minerals and vitamins and really kicks orchids into gear.
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  #18  
Old 01-29-2009, 09:44 PM
Sandy4453 Sandy4453 is offline
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I would repot this plant in a medium that isn't as fast drying as bark or add either CHC or sphagnum and tree fern to the mix (or all 3). Of course you want this to (almost) dry before watering again but preventing it from drying out, at this stage, is what I would pay close attention to. A Phal in this condition will be less forgiving than one with lots of roots. if it stays dry too long. Don't cut the roots off. A 20 minute soak in KLN or SuperThrive (I like ST best) before potting and a weekly dose of either of these with each watering for at least a month. I've potted Phals that were in this condition and they survived and went on to bloom just fine.

Don't remove the kieki just yet. Wait till there are at least 3 roots, at least 2 inches long before removing.

Please update and let's hear what you decided. Best of luck!

Last edited by Sandy4453; 01-29-2009 at 09:47 PM..
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  #19  
Old 01-29-2009, 09:56 PM
Austinerd Austinerd is offline
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Where do you find KLN or SuperThrive...would they be at the standard big box stores, or are these specialty orchid products available only online?
Just curious.....thanks!
Dan
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  #20  
Old 01-29-2009, 10:11 PM
WhiteRabbit WhiteRabbit is offline
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I have purchased kln online only - haven't seen it in any stores - but have got superthrive at orchard supply hardware
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