The wide range of distribution explains why the plant is somewhat variable in its cultural requirements and why it can flower in less than ideal conditions.

I don't grow a lot of species orchids but among the five hundred or so plants that I have, there is probably fifty or so. I consider myself sometimes, to be an impulsive buyer but the one thing that I always make sure of is not to buy any plant that is a cool grower for obvious reasons. A few intermediates are ok but I try to stick with warm growers.

I believe that we want the things most that we know we can't have and that is why I would be very happy as the proud owner of Dendrobium cuthbertsonii. If I can ever figure out how to maintain high humidity, bright light and cool temperatures I will get one.

Ross, the wider and more diverse the distribution range of a plant, can cause that several ecotypes of the same species have different cultural needs. However, it can also be that a species is extremely plastic and can adapt to different conditions. I do not know neither the distribution of D. anosmun, nor the plant self (only by pictures), so I cannot tell exactly what would be the case here: genetic plasticity or just different "genetic pools"

but yes, to go to the point with your question, the wide distribution range can explain why there are so many different opinions as to resting this or other species.

How about a golden aya?
 

this is my first winter with my new dens, not sure which need rest and which dont.

How about a den. golden aya? does it need rest?
I also have a den. nobile and a den. red emperor 'prince' do they need rest a well?

Do I wait until the leaves fall, or do I just stop watering regardless of leaves being green. all new growths have matured and terminal leaves have formed.

Thanks!

Your Dendrobium Golden Aya, which is Dendrobium aphrodite x Dendrobium capillipes, needs reduced water and no fertilizer in the winter.

Your Dendrobium nobile and Dendrobium Red Emperor 'Prince' which is also a nobile, need a complete rest. You should have stopped fertilizer on these plants at the end of August and reduce water in October with no water after mid November. Night temperatures in the upper forties and fifties are necessary to induce flowering. At the end of the year you should start seeing buds.

Thank you!
That helps a lot.
I have one more question though. If they need upper 40's at night... should I put them outside? I have them on my kitchen window sill currently. And currently it is about 40 degrees overnight outside here in Maryland, US. The coldest I have the house at night is 62. but they are by the window, does that help?

Thanks again.

Singingirl, put a thermometer in your kitchen window and check the night temperature. Mid fifties would be fine.

Adding Cymbidium devonianum to my winter rest list.

Any thoughts on Neos? I saw that mentioned at the beginning...

What about Gramcybidium? I am thinking since it is crossed with Grammotophyllum it might not need much of a rest? The plant looks more cymbidiumish though..

Just thought I'd post that my Dendrobium anosmum on bark went totally ballistic and all leaves yellowed at same time. The one on tree fern has only shed 2 small leaves and remains green. So for those wondering about anosmum, keep that in mind. Both have entered the starvation mode.

Also adding the genus Anguloa, although I only have Anguloa eburnea. It was a bonus plant in a recent order, and I'm pretty sure that I don't have the right enviroment for it, so we'll see. It's pretty though.

I don't know about the intergeneric hybrids, it's all dependent on what the parents were, and how much influence the parent has. I only know of the one cymbidium that needs a dry rest, I don't think it's across all cymbidiums. In fact, the wording was something like "This species, unlike most other Cymbidiums, needs a semi rest..."