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Dendrobium anosmum
Barkeria spectabilis are orchids which need a winter rest from my orchid collection. |
Interesting lists, but I take a different approach. If the plant is from a monsoonal area, then it will have evolved with the wet hot summers and dry bright winters. Lots of stuff from SE Asia / Hymilayas, etc. do this. Also Cymbidium canaliculatum and it's hybrids definately need a winter rest.
Cheers |
I have a Dendrobium Super Ise 'White Center' x Dendrobium Ise 'Colorful' that should bloom mid-winter. Here's the link from Carter and Holmes detailing the care needed. So I guess this one doesn't need a rest?
Dendrobium Nobile Hybrids Orchid Care - Carter and Holmes Orchids Culture |
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My Coelogyne cristata will get a rest, it will probably stay outdoors longer than my others to get a cool-down (maybe initiate spikes??) Also cut back the fertilizer & keep a bit drier, too, meaning I will let nature do the watering unless it is close to dry.
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I have a question, I have the den aggeratum and I live in a very arid, dry area of the US, Denver. Do you think I should water mine a bit during the rest? Is a cool window helpful? How much sun?
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Hopefully others can advise more specifically - you may want to start a new thread. Good luck :) |
I have several that I give a definite winter rest though some do not need a full 3 months. I let them go bone dry but I still mist them occasionally. The are:
Dendrobium aggregatum (keep cooler) Dendrobium nobile (keep cooler) Dendrobium Phalaenopsis (deciduous varieties. I water once a month in winter) Oncidium splendidum (let go bone dry between waterings in winter) |
winter rest or winter care for sedirea japonica
hello.
i have a nice sedirea japonica that i purchased in spike. i have repotted it in a japanese pot and in moss. it did well during the summer and grew many leaves and many new roots. i was under the impression that it needed a winter rest in colder temperature. i placed mine under lights in the basement that is about 60 degrees f. i have not watered it for two or three weeks now. The leaves are still nice and green and stiff. the roots have gone white and the moss is dry. once in a while i spray it very lightly as it is near some other plants that i spray regularly. Should i water this plant? i dont want to lose this plant by neglect. it would not be hard to move it to a warmer spot and water it. how long should it be dry? |
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That said, I don't have much experience with these... You may get more replies starting a new thread with your question ... Good luck! |
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Hello Talila6, this is an old post of yours. Have you gotten your answer? If not there is a thread discussing Sederia japonica in the Vanda Alliance -- Neofinetia sub forum: "How Do YOU winter your Neofinetia?" If you cannot find it, I'll summarize: Sederia japonica should be grown like other Phalaenopsis--warmer temperatures, a little less light, and more regular watering. |
Winter rest for sedirea japonica
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Exactly, I assumed that if it came from Japan, Neos come from Japan, therefore grow them like Neos!
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From my notes (and with apologies for any redundancies - haven't had time to read all 26 pages yet)
Brassavola nodosa at least 2 weeks. 1-6 months in native habitat. Dendrobium phalaenopsis dry winters rest, but do not shrivel. 3-4 months in native habitat. Dendrobium nobile cool dry rest. 5-6 months in habitat, but first 2 have high humidity. Psychopsis papilio water every two weeks. Encyclia cordigera water every two weeks Sophronitis cernua at least one month at half water in winter after flowering. Sophronitis brevipedunculata 5 dry months in habitat, 2 with low humidity. Lealia sincorina - dry rest winter Cattleya leopoldii dry warm winter rest Paphiopedilum rothschildianum slight cool, drier rest during winter Encyclia fowliei dry winter, 1 per month for 3 months Angraecum leonis 5 mm per month for 3 months Laelia mantiqueirae dry winter rest Rhyncholaelia glauca dry winter rest Oncidium ampliatum dry winter rest Myrmecophila (Schomburgkia) tibicinis dry winter rest Paphiopedilum hirsutissimum one to two months dry rest |
are there any miltoniopsis that loose their leaves in the fall??
Or did I just kill mine? TY |
That doesn't sound good. I think you must have killed it. Mine loose leaves only off bulbs that have finished. there should be some new growth that will bloom in the spring.
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So i just moved my orchids indoors due to it getting and here in PA it snows and im sure in their natural locations, they never Go through snow lol.
I have quite a few phals and 2 oncidiums (think thats how its spelled) but someone here told me they look like dendrobiums? Do they need a winter rest? If so how would i do it Some of the orchids look weak from lack of care. I got most of them from my aunt who lost interest in them and let them go. |
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I have oncidiums:) so i just keep watering them and fertilizing all year?
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That's right. Most people fertilize less often during the winter. Some people don't fertilize at all for the winter. I fertilize once a month at half strength. It seems to keep them happy.
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Oh kewl! I cant wait for them to bloom:)
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I'm new here and had no idea any of them need a winter rest! How would you know?
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The person who you buy your orchids from should tell you. Ask questions and study if you plan to collect them. There are thousands of kinds.
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Well so far I've only bought them at grocery and home improvement stores. That's why I'm on this forum. I don't know beans about them but they bloom and thrive for me usually. But i only have a few easy types so far. :)
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usually the ones that are sold in grocery stores and home improvement stores are easy ones to grow. One thing that is important with almost all of them is that they have a cooler temperature at night to get them back into bloom. They need to feel the changing of the seasons.
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I live in southern Arizona. Do any of them need a winter rest if they live in a warm climate?
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Colleen, I want to say hello first, before we talk orchids. I am also a newbie orchid addict from Tucson!
I started out with just phalaenopsis, and they don't need to be "winterized." But once I knew the greenhouse was coming, I started collecting others. The following are going to need special winter handling: Dendrobium Kingmanium Dendrobium Superbum Neofinetia Pinkie Neofinetia Falcata Maxillaria Tenniflora and I suspect ASCF Twinkle may need reduced water, but it didn't come with any growing tips. If it is in the Neofinetia family, do I reduce water and food for a few months? I had planned on letting my Superbum and Kingmanium go dry about mid November. The temps here are still unseasonably high, and the nights haven't gotten cooler than 58 degrees. It seems like a bad plan to have them in such warm weather without water, but this is my first year with them, so I don't know. I have a Dendrobium I got at Trader Joe's that has no information whatsoever. I guess it is a Dendrobium because it isn't anything else and the canes look a bit like the other Dens, though this is upright and still in full bloom. Unless I read otherwise, I intend to continue with the normal watering program. |
Hi Raqsaharqi! U have what I think are send robins too and one that I can't identify. Most of my quids are phalaenopsis. Both types are blooming right now and the phials seem to bloom all year long. Wish I had a greenhouse. How did you go about getting one?
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I explain on the thread about my greenhouse. Mostly we got it because my husband got tired of hearing me complain about critters eating my tomatoes!
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I am new to this winter rest thingy, and I would like to see this thread updated to help some of us newbies out.
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I have a lit note. It's for Dendroium anosmum and probably for other nobile kinds . Here is the picture. Hope this helps. I have baby d. Anosmum, about 7 feet tall and it's bone dry. I do mist sometimes... I do have good humidity inside like 50s to up. Recently I just checked and it says 82 humidity, holy moley! I have not seen this high and quite pleased with it... Attachment 106820
Enjoy your plants during winter... :) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
Hi,
Living in Belgium here is the list of my orchids with a rest from November to February more or less, what means temp. between 5 and 12 cel. degrees in night and, if sunny, till 25 cel. degrees during the day. Almost no water, just a light misting when sunny days. They seems doing well. Angulocaste Iroise Bealleara 'Purple Haze' Burrageara 'Nelly Ijsler' Coelogyne cristata Coelogyne intermedia Colmanara 'Masaο Red' Cymbidium Dendrobium nobile all plants of Disa Lycaste consobrina Lycaste deppei Masdevallia 'Aouregan' Miltassia 'Dark Mornach' Miltonia 'Sunset' Miltoniopsis Odontocidium Odontoglossum Pleione Sophronitis coccinea Stanhopea nigroviolacea Stanhopea wardii Zygopetalum |
I was told not to water my cymbidium from Halloween to Valentine's Day. I sprayed occasionally all winter - not even once a week. It has a new bulb starting and I will give it a good watering on Saturday. In the summer I keep it on my southwest facing porch and it has done well there. I'm hoping it will bloom this year.
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Almost time to rest some orchids and I have a lot of new ones this year. Most interesting one is going to be the Lycaste Aromatica. Grower told me to wait until it decides to lose its leaves and then no water until flower spikes start to form. Doesn't look like it's going to lose its leaves any time soon.
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My Lycaste do not seem to want to loose their leaves as well. Maybe due to sunny weather till now. So, I water a little as temp. in the day may raise to 27 cel.deg. and wait...
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One thing to consider with winter rests is that a lot of people growing orchids live much farther from the equator than many orchids, so light is a factor as well. I was in Frankfurt one midsummer; light levels at noon were lower than early winter here, and at the botanical garden they had high-intensity sodium lights shining from the outside through their greenhouse onto some cacti during the daylight hours. Low light is a big reason to try and keep orchids from initiating new growth during the dark times of the year. Withholding fertilizer in the fall helps prevent new growth initiation.
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My Vandas, Phals and oncidiums get a semi-rest. The vandas are watered 1-2 week. Phals once every 2 wks unless they are showing signs of growth/spiking. Oncidiums drop to weekly. Most of them are misted on the outside of the container and saucer to increase humidity. I have a humidifier and try to keep our dry fall at 45 - 60% humidity.
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---------- Post added at 07:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:49 PM ---------- Maybe I missed it somewhere, but I have an abberans hybrid and it's the only one I haven't decided if it needs a rest or not. |
The Latouria Dendrobiums don't need a rest so just keep giving it warmth, water and fertilizer. :)
The only ones that are getting a rest is the Pleione (it is already in the fridge) and the Cyncnoches, if the leaves ever drop. The Dendrobium aggregatum was getting a rest but then it decided to send out a bunch of new growth so I have resumed watering it. I have no idea what it is thinking.... ? |
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