I just stumbled upon this very helpful list.
Are there any dendrobiums that do NOT need this winter rest?
For now, (it being early October), should I still be watering all these lightly? Or misting heavily? Or?
thanks, Susan

There are plenty of Dens that don't need a winter rest. All the phal type Dens don't need a rest, and there are also quite a few species Den that don't need it either. I can't think of any right now (have not had my morning coffee yet!) but maybe you can tell us what you have so we can figure out their needs.


I just got a Lycaste aromatica this weekend. Now I know that watering must be reduced once the leaves fall off and until the new growths appear, but how much do I reduce the watering? And what sort of temperatures does it need during this period? I'm really looking forward to the cinnamon smelling blooms in the spring!

That sort of helps, Lee. :) I have been given a Dendrobium which is a nobile type hybrid which had been kept absolutely sodden at standard room temps about three feet from a south west window. There was mould growing on the top of the chopped bark and no drainage holes, so I unpotted it, removed the bark that was surrounding the inner pot, took it out of that and then left it to dry out (in an oversize pot with no extra bark) to recover. It has two new canes with deformed foliage at the top, twistedover on itself, is otherwise healthy and surprisingly it had no obvious root rot although they were very white. The roots are now a little browner and I have given some water by spraying the outer ones whilst the inner bark dries back.

It is now in a bright window sill getting four hours direct sun a day and night time temperatures have been around 62 F for the last three days, because autumn finally arrived with a cold snap.

It isn't showing signs of being deciduous but I assume that as a nobile hybrid it should have winter rest. So the reason for my question was to see whether winter rest was triggered by reducing water or by cooling. Inadvertently, I seem to be doing both!!

Does anyone know how to recover the twisted foliage?

Heather

Well, after 4 autumn seasons of growing these chids I finally gave myself some sort of system for finding the chids that go into some sort of rest for winter.

My usual time frame for putting those chids aside goes from Halloween :hallo23: to Valentine's Day :love:
and for the month of October I am usually dreading the job :(

This year, I planned ahead and it made the task SO SO SO much easier! :wow

For the past few weeks, as I was watering/misting and spotted a chid that would be moving soon, I attached small bright pink cable ties (zip-ties) to them. I only had one color and then realized that some of them get a real winter rest and others do get a little misting once in a while :hmm I marked the end of the ties with a black Sharpie for the "full rest" area and left it with no black for the others.

Today I moved all those plants to their winter rack and it was a cinch!!! (/udb)

All one needs in life are systems for coping!! Go for it, Sue.

Ok guys- revising a few earlier posts, these are the orchids I have and what I give them, but I have one question. Does anyone have a cattleya intermedia that gets a winter rest? I read they seem to get slightly drier and cooler, but they are a coastal species that do not dry out very much even when the temp drops ( I read they should never go completely dry). My list goes like this and ill explain abbreviations after the list.

Brassavola Nodosa - P/R slightly cooler/dry not below 40F *Can be dry for short periods*

Cattleya Deckeri- P/R slightly drier/cooler not below 58F (avg wint temp is 62F) *Do Not let this dry completely*

Cattleya Harrisoniana - P/R slightly cooler/drier not below 48F *Can be slightly dry*

Cattleya Intermedia- *No Rest* slightly cooler not below 48F (avg wint temp 50F) *Do Not let this dry completely*

Cattleya Schilleriana- P/R Slightly drier/cooler not below 48F (avg wint temp 52F) *Do Not let this dry completely*

Cattleya walkeriana- 'Estrela da Colina' + 'Flamea Divina' + 'Cambara' C/R only morning dew temps down to 29-33F *Can be completely dry/stay dry for days*

Denrobium (Aphyllum/Pierardii) Name changed to Cucullatum - C/R 37-45F morning dew/light misting *Can be completely dry for short time*

Dendrobium Anosmum/Superbum + Dendrobium Parishii - C/R 37-45F morning dew light mist *Can be completely dry for short time*

Dendrobium Chrysotoxum - P/R to C/R 40-50F light misting/morning dew *Can be completely dry for short periods*

Dendrobium Goldschmidtianum/Miyakei+
Dendrobium Hercoglossum S/R 2-4 weeks slightly drier/cooler 46F only continual mistings *Can be slightly drier*

Dendrobium Kingianum Sp + 'Betty' + 'Black Inferno' + 'Red Devil' - C/R 30-40F morning dew light mist *Can be completely dry/stay dry for days*

Dendrobium Phalaenopsis hybrids ('Sabine x Compactum' + 'Udom Sri' etc.) P/R slightly cooler/drier not below 50F misting and morning dew *Can be more dry during rest or always moist if no rest*

Dendrobium Nobile Sp + 'Red Emperor Prince' + 'Wave King Akebono' C/R 30-40F (*you can refridgerate the den nobiles for at least 31+ days for at least 2 hrs per night* and they will bloom when temps hit 57+F daytime) I have done it successfully. *Can be completely dry/stay dry for days*

Epidendrum Cinnabarinum - C/R cool/dry not below 35F *will flower at any time of year* *Can be completely dry for short periods*

Epidendrum 'Mabel Kanda' - P/R slightly cooler/drier not below 40F will induce spring blooming *Can be slightly drier during rest*

Paphiopedilum hybrids - P/R will take temps to 40F but 45-55F is enough to get spring blooms, they need heavy mistings/dew even in cooler weather so they do not completely dry *Should not completely dry for very long*

Phalaenopsis Schilleriana Sp - C/R dryer/cooler with 40-48F nights *Can be completely dry for short periods*

Phalaenopsis Hyrbids (Noids) - P/R slightly drier/cooler temps down to 45F regular mistings *Can be dry for short periods*

Vanda Denisoniana 'Zara's Sunrise'- P/R slightly cooler/drier 45-55F heavy misting/light watering *Can be dry for couple days*

Vanilla Planifolia - Blooming depends on size P/R slightly cooler drier (mine has taken down to 46F with no damage) *Can be slightly drier in cooler months*



Now obviously there will be differences in culture from person to person, but this is what works for me so keep that in mind. The P/R is for partial rest, C/R for complete rest and S/R for short rest. I will let humidity build up in winter so the plants get morning dew, but other than that they will stay fairly dry and cooler to properly rest. I hope this list will help people and is germane to the rest of this thread. Good luck to everyone this winter.

Hi FL Guy,
I have a C. Intermedia. It gets watered year round. Seems to like plenty of light. I'm located in Zone 8 in coastal South Carolina. Its healthy. You said it. If it works for you...
~enjoy
Lee
classicorchid com

Thank you for the info Savor- I appreciate that and I wanted to make my list as informative and thorough so everyone can use my info for growing if possible.

What about Lycaste aromatica? It hasn't been mentioned in this thread yet. I know that it needs less water (what's 'less'?) once the leaves fall off until the spikes appear, but does it need a proper winter rest, with cool temps and almost no water? And I don't know if I have to reduce water after the leaves fall, or if I need to reduce it before to make them fall.

Dendrobium loddigesii. Do these get rest? Complete or cut back?

I did a quick scan here and couldn't find any info. so please don't shoot me if it's here and I overlooked it. Thank You.:biggrin: