Which orchids in YOUR collection get a winter rest? - Page 14 - Orchid Board

boytjie · #**131** 09-28-2009, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beverly

I dont know if this would help, but I'm planning on putting colored stickers on most of my pots.

I'm also planning on trying that, especially since my mom stops by daily to water my 'chids over the winter when I'm traveling. Red stickers will go on pots/mounts/hooks for those that don't get any water, and yellow for those that get only a weekly misting. Green means water as normal. Hopefully this should be pretty clear for her (and me as well) to follow.

savor · #**132** 09-28-2009, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kath

I have another question, although this may not be the right place. I have a cattleya which I've had for 5 years roughly, and last year it refused to flower. Does it mean I should transplant it into a bigger pot? Does the cattleya like that sort of treatment? Can it be done during the winter season.
Thanks for your precious advice.

Kath,
I think this would make a good new thread! Does the catt have a tag? I'd be glad to check its parentage for clues on what it gets in nature.
My thought is that it is hard to decide why the Catt took a vacation. If you give it good care through the growing season, should bloom. Sounds like you have had good luck, ?4 out of 5 years blooming!? But you will get lots of replys if you start a new thread.

I suppose now is a time when it might bloom?. Here's an idea. Get some bloom promoting fertilizer, usually has a middle number indicating phosphorus of 55. Once taken up by the plant it mostly has little choice but to make blooms. Blooms are primarily phosphorus. The best time to repot is when it is putting out new roots. Usually not in the heat of summer. Soaking the roots and taking it out of the pot can let you look for healthy firm roots. Soft and "gushy" roots can be cut away (with a sterile blade that hasn't been used on any kind of plant). Orchids are generally very resilient and can be repotted other times if they need to be. An infestation of bugs is one of those good reasons. Next year you might want to pick a brighter spot. Maybe shade from a tree has crept over its perch. Lots of light stored during the growing season should equal blooms. Another thing is that catts bloom on new growth. Does it have one this year? Said another way usually those pseudobulbs that don't have the stub of a spent spike... can bloom.
I hope you do start a thread.

Lee

p.s. Just 50 days left until we fly off to Machu Picchu for 2 weeks. Few seats left. We'll do a 'lil blog/photos for those that want to follow along. PM me/Homepage

kiki-do · #**133** 09-29-2009, 09:22 AM

This is a great thread and I don't know why I never saw it before!
To add to the winter rest list, I have a Bifrenaria harrisoniae
Now I best check the care of my latest newbies, as I'm not familiar with winter resting chids other than the hard cane dendrobiums.
Seeing Tolumnia's on the list surprised me.
Thanks for this thread!!!! It's wonderful to have such knowledgeable people here.

cb977 · #**134** 09-29-2009, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boytjie

I'm also planning on trying that, especially since my mom stops by daily to water my 'chids over the winter when I'm traveling. Red stickers will go on pots/mounts/hooks for those that don't get any water, and yellow for those that get only a weekly misting. Green means water as normal. Hopefully this should be pretty clear for her (and me as well) to follow.

Well, I think my hubby has had a brainstorm!

I use zip-ties (cable ties) when I'm mounting my chids. We bought a huge container full of them last year but I only use the black, green or clear...which left us with a whole bunch of brightly colored flourescent pink ties.
I'm going to use those pink ties on my winter-rest plant tags. I was trying to think of something that wouldn't fade in this Florida sun or wash off from all the misting that gets done here...and I think hubby came up with a good idea

boytjie · #**135** 09-29-2009, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cb977

Well, I think my hubby has had a brainstorm!

I use zip-ties (cable ties) when I'm mounting my chids. We bought a huge container full of them last year but I only use the black, green or clear...which left us with a whole bunch of brightly colored flourescent pink ties.
I'm going to use those pink ties on my winter-rest plant tags. I was trying to think of something that wouldn't fade in this Florida sun or wash off from all the misting that gets done here...and I think hubby came up with a good idea

Smart hubby. Sounds like he's earned his keep for the week.

cb977 · #**136** 09-29-2009, 09:48 AM

He has his moments...I think I'll keep him

Hedge · #**137** 10-03-2009, 08:10 AM

Here's something that puzzles me - do you move orchids to a cooler place first or reduce the watering first?

Singingirl96 · #**138** 10-04-2009, 11:23 AM

Hello All,
I'm sure you already addressed this, but I'm in MD, and I have been keeping my Golden aya and two den nobiles outside all summer. they did really well out there. They are along privacy fence, so they get shade, but no cover.
In comparison to last summer (I kept them indoors), the canes are more bulbous, more shiny, and generally healthier looking all together.
Other than when it was really hot, I didn't water them at all, I just let the rain do the job. They seem really happy that way.
Here is my question: The temp now is in the mid 60's and low 50's. When should I bring them in and stop watering them all together?

Also, last year my golden aya didn't give me any blooms. It shrived and lost all its leaves. I got a few new growths this year and I think I'm not going to halt water completely. What should I do?

Leisurely · #**139** 10-04-2009, 02:55 PM

Your nobiles will not be unhappy with lows in the thirties so long as they are protected from frost. If you were fertilizing, you should have stopped at the end of August. Watering should coincide with temps. If it is very cool watering should be reduced from now until November. The plants will appreciate all of the light that you can give them right now to ripen the canes. The primary objective is to keep them cool, bright and dry until you see new buds forming. Once the nodes have developed into obvious buds then you can resume normal watering. Watering too early will results in keikis and no flowers.

savor · #**140** 10-04-2009, 10:05 PM

Hedge,
May I ask what kind of orchids you have? This will help with the riddle of which comes first... cool or dryer.

This may not be what you are asking but as long as I'm here... For the decidious, once the leaves drop, such orchids are no longer transpiring moisture so they need little water uptake. Still for all the orchids that we reduce watering, we should keep an eye out to see if the pseudobulbs are showing any signs of shriveling. Then give just a taste "to wet their lips".
Lee