how to intiate spikes... - Orchid Board

addictedcountryman · #1 10-02-2008, 02:30 AM

so i have been growing orchids off and on for a few years, both successfully and unsuccessfully. what i have not been able to do yet is to promote spike growths. i know that the temperature and lighting play a factor. i have moved my plants from natural light to now under plant lights (about a foot up). i would appreciate some suggestions as to how long the light must stay on, if one light is enough for one 3X2' shelf filled with plants, etc. thanks

Ray · #2 10-02-2008, 06:56 AM

Before anyone can give you a reasonable answer to either question, we need to know what kind of orchids you're referring to.

Not all plants initiate inflorescences due to temperature variation. Some, as an example, respond to shortening day length.

As far as the light is concerned, again it depends upon the type of plants, as the light needs vary all over the map. The wattage and type/size of bulb makes a difference as well.

betwixtimes · #3 10-02-2008, 11:20 AM

Sometimes you just have dumb luck...like me.

If you can post images of your set up and tell us about your orchids, I think we could be more helpful.

addictedcountryman · #4 10-02-2008, 03:26 PM

Brassia NOID: May
Brdm. Shooting Star "Black Gold"
Bulb. Sumatrana
C. Chocolate Drop Jean Kellogg X C. Chocolote Drop Kodama
D. Crumenatum: July 17
D. Nobile Prince: April-June
D. mini. Lavender: May-July
Enc. Hanburi
Hwra. Lava Burst Puanani: May
Onc. Sharry Baby: March-May
Paph. Philippenense v. roebelinii
Paph. Venustum V. Alba
Paph. Raisen Pie: March-May
Phal Taisuco Crane x2: March
Phal NOID (Trader Joes): March-June
Phal. NOID
Phrag. Green Hornet x Phrag. Wallisii
Phrag. Paul Eugene Conroy
Rhynochoctylis Gigantia
V. Pine Rivers: April
Vanda Tricolor sauvis white lavender x2:
Asc. Princess Mikasa: June
Neofinetia Falcata 'Yodo No Matsu': August-
Schomburgkia Tibicnis : May
V. Kasem's Delight X Golamco Supreme X Acda Pudtan
Zygopedlium x4

My vandas and schomburgkia are outside.

isurus79 · #5 10-02-2008, 03:43 PM

I know that for some of my troublesome Cattleya types (complex hybrids and Laelia purpurata) I just basically stop watering them after the growth has matured. I let the back bulbs shrivel, but the new one(s) should stay plump. Maintain the watering level to where you do not let you new growths shrivel excessively. Let that happen for a month or so and you should see your sheaths start to swell. When you know for sure that you have flowers, start watering again. I have a Laelia purpurata flowering in October (ie. right now) because of this technique when normally these flower in spring.

Ross · #6 10-02-2008, 03:47 PM

Wow! what a list!

Paphs will iniate a spike when the new fans mature. I keep mine at really high light levels compared to other folks - like 2000+ FCs. All I can say is when they are ready, they are ready. Phals are a bit more problematic. Many Phals seem to like a chill prior to setting spikes. For me this isn't a problem as my house is kept at 62F during winter which serves as the chill period. My Phals bloom in the spring when temps start kreeping up. I have no advice as to the others.

addictedcountryman · #7 10-02-2008, 08:56 PM

wow thanks everyone, this is really helpful. ross, i purchased a neofinetia falcata in bloom and of course it has stopped, but I was wondering about the winter "dry" period? I purchased it from Jason Fischer and it was not potted traditionally. I have kept it moist (damp, more like it) but I have noticed that some of the roots inside the clear plastic pot are rotting. is this because there is no air circulation? Should I remove it from its plastic pot and keep the moss on it?
thanks.