Cattleyas in bloom but sick. Help!!!

[Serge]

Blc Toshie Aoki X Blc. Gold of Old "Waiomao"
I received them 1 month ago.It start developing those black spots.The black spot are not soft.
Is it just the new habitat shock? If i have to cut the black part, do i cut the bloom to.
They are not expose to direct sun.

[kiki-do]

Wow, I don't know! You say they are not exposed to direct sun and that is what it looked like to me at first glance. I had that happen to a catt and it was due to sunburn. Is that black on a sheathe? I can't tell. I know sheathes sometimes turn black. I wouldn't cut the bloom, but I don't have any rhyme or reason...I just wouldn't have the heart. I would just keep an eye on it and make sure it doesn't get any worse.
Serge, I would wait and see what others say. I'm not that savvy at this stuff.

[Serge]

Thank Kiki. No direct sun, but is to much heat could do that? I live in Florida, and we had temp. over 93 degree past weeks.


Serge

[SP2340]

Is that species adapted to Florida climate?

[Serge]

Sorry, It's a Blc Toshie Aoki X Blc. Gold of Old "Waiomao"

[D&S Mabel]

Be careful as I think, unfortunately, that you may have a case of black rot fungus there. I just battled this in several plants and it seems to be caused by too much water, humidity, warmth and a lack of air movement. This seems to crop up for me in August and September in Florida when the rains are really kicking in and, in between the rains, the air is still and humidity very high. With the flooding in our area from TS Fay, even more so.

It usually infects new growths and buds first (starting somewhere along the stem) then can move into the rest of the plant if untreated. The black spotches you see, along with discolored or dying roots are some of the symptoms I notice early on. Cattleya types seem to get this more then anything else. I ended up with 12 sick plants and lost 6 of them in the latest outbreak I had.

A web search on this disease will get you methods for controlling it. You will have to remove the effected plant parts, treat with a fungicide and repot if you want to save the plant. I've had to remove as little as a part of a leaf, to removing p-bulbs to stop the spread. Be sure to separate your sick plants from your healthy ones as this disease can supposedly be spread by touch, spashing water, etc.

I've started to use a systemic fungicide to control future outbreaks and got rid of all the humidity trays I was using (what as I thinking, I need to raise the humidity outdoors in Florida in the summer!?!?!?). I have also switched to move fast draining, less water retaining potting mixes. I think I may also need to run the ceiling fans on my covered porches where my plants are during those 2 months.

I hope I am wrong as I am not an expert. Good Luck.

[BikerDoc5968]

They say, "When in doubt, cut it out!" While my first impression, like Kiki, was sunburn. If the plant hasn't been adapted to the outside or heat, it doesn't take much to burn the leaves. But if you have a fungal problem, then I'd spray with RD-20 or Physan 20 and remove the damaged leaves. If the flowers are unaffected they can stay...I would think?! Make sure any tools used are bleached and cleaned before and after surgery!!!!!!

[justatypn]

D&S, you might feel your not an expert but you hit it right on. The humidity here in Fl lately has been way above what our orchids desire even with air circulation. Just yesterday I was tinkering with a few catts outside on the balcony, good air circulation and the same as the above s. Enough to make one angry, but taking away the trays will make a difference at higher than normal humidity.

With high humidity it does cause fungal infection. I would use physan 20 and cut the infected area using cinnamon on the fresh cut.

[Serge]

Thank you every body for the attention.

I will try to do the best with it. And i will give you news of the development in the next days.

Like i said before, if you need advise on construction,ask me. That's were i am good at.

Serge