Constant rot problems

[Ray]

I cannot tell from the attachment, but the "before" image looks awfully compact, with little room for air movement.

There could also simply be an issue with repotting.

When roots grow, they "tailor" themselves on a cellular level to function optimally in that environment, and once the have grown, they cannot change. If the environment changes, whether that be to compacting, decomposing, or just being repotted, those existing roots are immediately rendered sub-optimal, and will begin to fail. How rapidly that happens depends a lot on the degree of difference between old and new conditions.

That's why the best time to repot is just when new roots are emerging from the base of the plant, as they will grow optimized for the new conditions and support the plant as the old ones fade away.

[Mountaineer370]

It's hard to tell from the photos, but that potting medium does not look very airy. Can you provide a link to the Substral formula you are using? Looking it up online, their orchid formula says it's a mixture of bark, coconut husk, and peat moss. That's not anything I would pot a Phal in.

[heavensent]

Yes the Substral substrate is exactly that! Every orchid sold here comes in that kind of substrate, packed even more compactly... that's why I pot them this way, thinking they are used to it...

If I am to use less substrate, how do I stabilize the orchids? Do you myb have some pictures?

[Roberta]

If you have roots (even if not very good... you can keep the plant quite stable in medium bark. (If the velamin is rotten you can strip it off with your fingers, give a good wash under the sink faucet, the stringy root center will help stabilize the plant and passively hydrate it while it is growing new roots. (These are strong arguments for not cutting roots even if they don't look good) If you have no long roots, you can stabilize the plant with 2 or 3 strategically placed wood skewers for a Phal, or tie to stake for types that have a rhizome.

[Ray]

Plants like to be mechanically stable.

Soak the potting medium before use so it becomes pliable - it won't be much, but it will be softer than when it dries.

Make an unpacked mound in the bottom of the pot, set the root mass on top of it, then fill in with more mix, pressing down slightly to firm it up.

Anchor the plant in the pot with skewers jammed down into the medium, and/or with plastic coated rigid wire that you crimp over the pot rim.

[rbarata]

Originally Posted by heavensent

If I am to use less substrate, how do I stabilize the orchids? Do you myb have some pictures?

What you need is a mix with larger components in it (larger bark, for ex) so that there will be voids into the mix to allox air circulation ( and not less substrate, as you wrote).
As you said, at the early stages after repoting, the plant may be unstable but with time it will anchor itself without any intervention from you.
Just be careful to not move it more than necessary, and when you do, do it carefully. You can place a few pebbles on top of the medium, on key positions, to give it more stability.

[Mountaineer370]

Yes, to clarify my previous post, I was not suggesting you use less substrate (potting mix), but maybe a different type. Something chunkier, that provides lots of room for air movement. You don't want anything that tends to get compacted over time, and I suspect the peat in your mix could be of a fine enough texture that it will do just that. I'm not sure about the coconut husk. If it's actual chunky pieces, it's probably okay, but if it's the softer, finer stuff, I believe called coconut coir, that's not going to be optimal.

I use Orchiata bark, nothing else. It lasts for years without decomposing or breaking up. I use the large size for most of my Phals. Just be aware, though, that using 100 percent large bark will generally require you to water more often if you are used to using a more water-retentive medium.

Occasionally, if I have a plant that is very large and heavy, or one that has very few roots, temporary staking or stabilization with wires may be needed.

A couple other observations: The pot in your picture looks like it could use some more air holes. Also, you mentioned in your first post watering only every two weeks or so. The roots that can be seen through the sides of your pot in the photo are green. How long do they stay that color? They should turn a lighter, silvery color when they need water. If that's not happening, then I think your potting substrate is too tightly packed and the roots are not getting enough air.

[heavensent]

The pot on the picture was watered two days ago. They always turn whiteish when I water them.. I will try my luck with a different substrate to start with. Hope I can find a suitable one.

Thanks everyone!!

[MateoinLosAngeles]

Late here but if the rot happens on stems/leaves a fan does wonders. Plants in general, and orchids in particular, benefit tremendoulsy from air movement.

[Dalachin]

I would amplify ES's comments... most Phals do better warmer, especially when stressed and when they are trying to grow roots. 70 is the low end, getting them warmer by adding a seedling heat mat might help.