How do you know when a bloom is naturally fading vs when something is actually wrong?

[SakuraDrops]

Compare the blooms in this photo: Bloom comparison - Album on Imgur

Is this the natural way blooms fade?
If something is wrong, does it appear on the blooms? If so, what would be some signs that blooms exhibit that the plant isn't doing well? Spots or discoloration?

I want to add that, this orchid has been in bloom for months, and has new buds forming. I just never am sure if I should worry or not when the blooms start to look like this! Also, I do not mist blooms.

[Roberta]

Just looks like an aging flower. Look carefully at the back of the flower, and crevices where the petals are attached, to make sure you don't have a mealybug hiding out. They can prematurely age flowers and if you find one, zap it with a bit of rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab (Q-tip) But especially since that one is toward the bottom of the inflorescence, and it has been in bloom for a long time, likely just aging. Phalaenopsis flowers last a long time, but don't last forever. Many do produce new flowers at the end of the inflorescence as old flowers fade.

That being said, do examine the medium - if it is old/mushy/smelly you'll want to repot. You can repot a Phal when it is in bloom, and if you are gentle (don't knock it around) you can do it and the plant won't miss a beat. (If you do need to repot, just rinse off the roots, remove only medium that comes off easily, and repot. Don't cut even bad roots unless you have lots of good ones, just refresh the medium but don't be aggressive about removing old stuff that is stuck on, just leave it)

[SakuraDrops]

Originally Posted by Roberta

Just looks like an aging flower. Look carefully at the back of the flower, and crevices where the petals are attached, to make sure you don't have a mealybug hiding out. They can prematurely age flowers and if you find one, zap it with a bit of rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab (Q-tip) But especially since that one is toward the bottom of the inflorescence, and it has been in bloom for a long time, likely just aging. Phalaenopsis flowers last a long time, but don't last forever. Many do produce new flowers at the end of the inflorescence as old flowers fade.

That being said, do examine the medium - if it is old/mushy/smelly you'll want to repot. You can repot a Phal when it is in bloom, and if you are gentle (don't knock it around) you can do it and the plant won't miss a beat. (If you do need to repot, just rinse off the roots, remove only medium that comes off easily, and repot. Don't cut even bad roots unless you have lots of good ones, just refresh the medium but don't be aggressive about removing old stuff that is stuck on, just leave it)

Thank you so much Roberta, I had no idea mealybugs could hide there. Will remember the tips about the repotting.

One more question, the medium doesn't smell bad at all, it does have a very "green" smell though..is that normal? Or should it have NO smell? D: The plant is potted in some type of moss.

[Roberta]

Phals often come potted in sphagnum. Is the pot soft and flimsy? If so, very likely a candidate for repotting. Can you get a photo of the medium? If the pot is clear plastic, you can see whether the roots look good. If not s clear pot, more guesswork involved. If it looks at least marginally good, probably best to leave it for awhile. Fresh medium dries out much faster than old, so you would have to commit to more frequent watering. So if you can share a look at the medium (and base of the plant), then easier to give advice, There's no hard-and-fast answer, just options.

[SakuraDrops]

Originally Posted by Roberta

Phals often come potted in sphagnum. Is the pot soft and flimsy? If so, very likely a candidate for repotting. Can you get a photo of the medium? If the pot is clear plastic, you can see whether the roots look good. If not s clear pot, more guesswork involved. If it looks at least marginally good, probably best to leave it for awhile. Fresh medium dries out much faster than old, so you would have to commit to more frequent watering. So if you can share a look at the medium (and base of the plant), then easier to give advice, There's no hard-and-fast answer, just options.

The top of the pot is flimsy, but it is able to stand up on its own. Would it be okay to repot while it is growing now? It has new buds and a leaf forming. I can be extra careful, but I am afraid to disturb it too much. D:

Photos: Yellow Phal Pot - Album on Imgur

[Roberta]

That's definitely a pot that needs replacing. It also likely has just one drain hole in the bottom so doesn't drain all that well. Roots look great, though, so it isn't a rush. You have plenty of time to get the pot you want, and fresh moss, or bark, or whatever you want to use. I'd use a pot that is just a bit larger than that one. You will probably find that the roots in the center aren't in great shape, but the outer ones are fine.

Slide it out of the pot gently. It if doesn't come out easily, squeeze around the pot - that will tend to loosen any roots attached to it. Once you get it out of the pot, remove whatever moss comes off easily. You may want to soak it, that will free up more. But anything stuck to roots, leave it. Rinse under running water. Then into a new pot (likely about the same size, certainly not much bigger) You want a pot with holes - this is all about drainage. You'll receive differing opinions on how to manage the moss - some people like to pack it in firmly (and water less often), I like to pack loosely, to maximize air space. But I like to water. Personally, I actually prefer medium bark for Phals rather than moss. Then you really can't over-water, you get lots of air in the root zone. Your choice. There's no one right way. But you can repot a Phal any time - it is always growing, and putting out roots. Other orchid types such as Catts, you want to do it just as new roots are emerging, which often happens only at particular times of year, so much pickier about timing.

[SakuraDrops]

Originally Posted by Roberta

That's definitely a pot that needs replacing. It also likely has just one drain hole in the bottom so doesn't drain all that well. Roots look great, though, so it isn't a rush. You have plenty of time to get the pot you want, and fresh moss, or bark, or whatever you want to use. I'd use a pot that is just a bit larger than that one. You will probably find that the roots in the center aren't in great shape, but the outer ones are fine.

Slide it out of the pot gently. It if doesn't come out easily, squeeze around the pot - that will tend to loosen any roots attached to it. Once you get it out of the pot, remove whatever moss comes off easily. You may want to soak it, that will free up more. But anything stuck to roots, leave it. Rinse under running water. Then into a new pot (likely about the same size, certainly not much bigger) You want a pot with holes - this is all about drainage. You'll receive differing opinions on how to manage the moss - some people like to pack it in firmly (and water less often), I like to pack loosely, to maximize air space. But I like to water. Personally, I actually prefer medium bark for Phals rather than moss. Then you really can't over-water, you get lots of air in the root zone. Your choice. There's no one right way. But you can repot a Phal any time - it is always growing, and putting out roots. Other orchid types such as Catts, you want to do it just as new roots are emerging, which often happens only at particular times of year, so much pickier about timing.

Thank you so much.

Another question, is the quality of bark important?
Is there a "high quality" bark and a "lower quality" one? Or is it basically all the same? Also, why would you choose medium bark and not large?

[Roberta]

I like Orchiata bark. It is very long-lasting. Low quality bark (such as what you're likely to get at Home Depot, etc) tends to break down faster, have fine pieces that plug air spaces and stay too wet. So that's where quality comes in . For a Phal that size, I like medium bark, large is OK if you're going to water every day or so. (Catts, on the other hand, I'd lean toward large for a similar-size plant since they tolerate drying better than Phals do) It's a trade-off. Some people successfully use cut-up wine corks. Or lava rock. Many ways to do this. Your goal is humid air in the root zone, maintaining the level of moisture that you want while meeting your own needs for watering frequency. (If you are able to spend time with your plants every day, you can water more often and a rapidly-drying mix is great. If you travel a lot, you needs something that stays wetter),

As you get into this, you'll get a feel for what works for you. (Another reason not to rush, observe and learn). You can tweak the potting conditions so that plants with different needs can all be watered on the same schedule. For instance, in my back yard, I group plants that need a lot of sun in the same area. This includes Cymbidiums that like to stay damp and Laelias that need to dry out. All get watered by overhead sprinklers on the same schedule. How to do this? The Cyms are in plastic pots with small bark, which stays damp. The Laelias are mounted or in baskets with little or no medium, so they're dry a couple of hours after the sprinklers run. Result - all the plants are happy getting what they need, and I am happy to not have to figure out who needs what. So remember... keep in mind the goal (the "what is needed") for each type of plant, that will dictate the "how" and do it to make your life as easy as possible.

[estación seca]

Buds and flowers may drop early from:

• Not enough water;
• Poor roots that can't take up enough water;
• Change in environment, like moving from a warm, humid greenhouse to a cool, dry house;
• Being too near a heat or air conditioning draft;
• Mealy bug, spider mite or thrips attack, as Roberta mentioned;
• Unexpected sunburn, like after moving a plant someplace so you can see it in bloom;
• Wind.

[Leafmite]

Those flowers are really pretty.