Help with an heirloom - repeating a success

[Stefan Petersen]

Dear Orchidboard

Last year I got some excellent advice and revived a dendrobium, which I thought was a goner. That meant the world to me since the orchid was one of a very few things I inherited from my grandmother. It even blossomed after a few months tender care

The other thing I inherited was a phalanopsis which also seemed to be getting better after being on the brink with only three small leaves. But now I see a dark green/brown area on one of it's leaves. It got me worrying if it is somthing that might be an issue.

Do you have any idea, what the dark green area is and how I should treat it?

I keep it in a huge south facing window, but I have have drawed a light curtain in front of it so it isn't hit by direct sunlight. I live in Denmark where the sun atm rises at 05:00 and sets at 21:20. I cant decide if the sun is to intese through the curtain when the sky is clear or if it is too dark, when there are clouds in the sky.

I give it water every two weeks, where I put it in a clean bucket with water for an hour. Last year I was watering it more frequently this time a year (every 8th day). But due to illness and work I have against my wih kept it on the winter routine where it is only every two weeks.

[estación seca]

Are the affected areas softer than the other parts of the leaves? When was it last repotted?

It is very dessicated, but life has kept you from watering. In that size bark watering could be every few days.

[Stefan Petersen]

Originally Posted by estación seca

Are the affected areas softer than the other parts of the leaves? When was it last repotted?

It is very dessicated, but life has kept you from watering. In that size bark watering could be every few days.

Dear Estación Seca

I am sorry for a late reply. I thought I had posted immediately after your response.

First things first. I don't know if you recall. But you were actually one of two persons who helped out with my Dendrobium. And thank you very much. It even started blooming after following your great advice

The leave does not feel soft at all. If there is a difference it is ever so slightly. It was repotted last year. I will start watering it more often. Last year I did watered it by putting the pot in water (to the edge) every 8th day. It seemed to please it. It was after writing with you. It was looking way worse before, but grew a brand new leave, so it had 4 in stead of 3 leaves.

After talking to my dad I decided to water it less frequently in the winter time, since there is limited day light here in Denmark (our shortest day of the year is only 7 hours).

Would you recommend a different watering frequence in winter vs summer?

Last note. I don't know if it has any effect. But the roots of the phal does grow quite wildly out of the pot, and I experienced that some of the roots was like pasted to the pot. So after watering it I had a loose plastic bag betweein the plastic inner pot and the regular pot.

[Roberta]

That oldest leaf may drop. That's OK - the new leaves and new growth are what is important. Wild roots are natural - Phalaenopsis are epiphytes, in nature (in warm, tropical places like the Philippines) they grow hanging on trees with their roots in the air. We put them in pots to make them easier to manage in our homes and to keep them hydrated.

With days getting longer (and perhaps warmer in the house), growth will probably increase, and water loss through the leaves (transpiration) will probably increase too, so that it will dry faster. Watering should be based on the plant's needs, not a calendar. To determine that "need" you could use this little procedure: After watering well (let water flow through the pot, then drain) weight the plant on a kitchen scale or postal scale. The next day, weigh again, etc. When the rate of weight loss slows (not much more water to evaporate) it's time to water again.

If you have a space between the inner pot and a plastic bag, you create a zone of higher humidity - which the plant loves. So some of those roots go toward the humidity, which is fine. Phals do want "humid air" rather than "wet" so this is a bit like what it would get in nature. No worries...

[Stefan Petersen]

Originally Posted by Roberta

That oldest leaf may drop. That's OK - the new leaves and new growth are what is important. Wild roots are natural - Phalaenopsis are epiphytes, in nature (in warm, tropical places like the Philippines) they grow hanging on trees with their roots in the air. We put them in pots to make them easier to manage in our homes and to keep them hydrated.

With days getting longer (and perhaps warmer in the house), growth will probably increase, and water loss through the leaves (transpiration) will probably increase too, so that it will dry faster. Watering should be based on the plant's needs, not a calendar. To determine that "need" you could use this little procedure: After watering well (let water flow through the pot, then drain) weight the plant on a kitchen scale or postal scale. The next day, weigh again, etc. When the rate of weight loss slows (not much more water to evaporate) it's time to water again.

If you have a space between the inner pot and a plastic bag, you create a zone of higher humidity - which the plant loves. So some of those roots go toward the humidity, which is fine. Phals do want "humid air" rather than "wet" so this is a bit like what it would get in nature. No worries...

Thank you very much. I will most definetely try to use a scale and make sure that it has enough water. Great advice. Thank you

I noticed something odd on one of the otherwise green and healthy leaves. Underneath it there is some pearls that looks like small drops of water. But when I touch it it feels like sap from a tree. But I didn't know that orchids could produce something like that. When I touch it gently with my finger and slowly pull out it can be pulled into a string that is about an inch before it breaks.

I googled it. And it looks like there is something called happy sap that orchids can produce. It looked like it was completely harmless.

And I think it is. But then on all the websites that describes it they also try to show you have to tell the difference between the happy sap and something serious. And they all mention dark, brown wet spots on the leaves as a sign of bacterial infection. I am very sure, that the brownish area on one of the leaves is firm and dry. And the sap appear on another leave that is totally green. Do you agree, that it is probably just a coincidence and not related to bacterial infection, that I discover sap on another green leaves just as I wrote you about the other leave having a brown, dry and firm area?

[tmoney]

howdy,

well, i am certainly no expert but would agree with e.s. that it looks a bit dehydrated, and usually with our phals if that comes up its repotted at the first convenience. but since you said you water ever 2 weeks that probably isn't too surprising! if it were ours we would probly put it in fresh media and overall root inspection. the browning of the leaf may just be losing a leaf, but it does look a bit weird.

also, we pretty much never see the happy sap in the center of a leaf, top or bottom. it always shows up on leaf margins, usually toward the base, and on spikes. so seeing it in the middle of a leaf would give me pause and perhaps suspect some sort of pest. altho it could be your conditions are just better than ours and your plant is happier!!

anyways, i would throw in the idea of a repot. either way, best of luck!!

[Roberta]

"Happy sap" on stems not a problem, but lots of small bits on the underside of the leaf, maybe a problem...

Those many little drops of sap may be the sign of spider mites... they take little, tiny bites out of the leaf so the sap leaks out. Eventually the leaf gets a silvery appearance from all of the tiny pits. They destroy slowly but they destroy. And they are almost microscopic - you may be able to see them with a hand lens. I'd suggest spraying the undersides of the leaves with soapy water (drown them)... repeat in a week and a week after that. You can search the Board for "spider mites" or "spidermites" for more suggestions.