Outdoor Misters vs. Other humidity solutions - Orchid Board

HiOrcDen · #1 03-27-2023, 11:19 PM

So I have collected a lot of orchids. Haven't counted, but I've got well over 50.

Of course the, plenty of them will require extra humidity.

Would a mister be a necessity? If so, I have a question about mister prices. There are very inexpensive misters, such as on Amazon. While there are far, far more expensive ones.

My impression is that the expensive ones create more of a fog, than a spray of water, is this correct?

Are the inexpensive misters useful for maintaining humidity, in an outdoor setting, behind shade cloth?

Would using a mister, either cheap or expensive, considered a necessity for when things start getting dry in the warm months?

If I need a mister, should I use a timer, and how often, and in what points of the day, and for how long each time?

Are very big humidity trays good enough, again, outdoors? And if not enough alone, should I maybe use both, mister and humidity trays?

Again, remember that I have plenty of species that have high humidity requirements.

Are there any other solutions? For example one of the experts on this forum has told me double potting in clay pots does the trick (on that note are very cheap clay pots okay, assuming I don't break them?)

And again, if misters should be used, please address the sufficiency of the inexpensive misters, as would rather not make a huge investment.

And please discuss the misting schedule I should employ, if necessary.

Roberta · #2 03-27-2023, 11:51 PM

In my experience, it's really not a problem. I have lots of orchids that would like more humidity than they get, and they do fine. (I'm also in coastal southern California) Today the humidity was down to 21% for awhile. The orchids forgive. When it gets really hot and dry (today heat wasn't too bad) I increase the watering - even twice a day. When it is warm, watering in the evening gives the plants extra time to absorb water, Then once or even twice during the day, and everything stays sufficiently moist to be reasonably happy. And that also cools them down due to evaporative cooling.

Humidity trays are pretty useless even in an enclosed area. Outside, totally useless.

A fogger is useful in an enclosed area such as a greenhouse, I use it for temperature control and humidity is just a fringe benefit. But outside, just watering. I don't think the "constant mist" thing is necessary. If it's inconvenient for you to water frequently (daily or more), an automated sprinkler system to give things a good bath on a schedule can help. (I set one up, so that I can take a vacation)

Take a look at the Growing Areas page of my website. You'll get some ideas.

HiOrcDen · #3 03-28-2023, 01:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roberta

In my experience, it's really not a problem. I have lots of orchids that would like more humidity than they get, and they do fine. (I'm also in coastal southern California) Today the humidity was down to 21% for awhile. The orchids forgive. When it gets really hot and dry (today heat wasn't too bad) I increase the watering - even twice a day. When it is warm, watering in the evening gives the plants extra time to absorb water, Then once or even twice during the day, and everything stays sufficiently moist to be reasonably happy. And that also cools them down due to evaporative cooling.

Humidity trays are pretty useless even in an enclosed area. Outside, totally useless.

A fogger is useful in an enclosed area such as a greenhouse, I use it for temperature control and humidity is just a fringe benefit. But outside, just watering. I don't think the "constant mist" thing is necessary. If it's inconvenient for you to water frequently (daily or more), an automated sprinkler system to give things a good bath on a schedule can help. (I set one up, so that I can take a vacation)

Take a look at the Growing Areas page of my website. You'll get some ideas.

Okay hank you! I'm actually very glad you reminded me about your page! I will have another look at your growing area.

Regarding misters, is there a particular brand & model that you would suggest I use?

Does the mister use a reservoir of water? In which case, can I put the usual dilute fertilizer in the reservoir? (or whatever it's called lol) So then the leaves would receive the dilute fertilizer. I know that Phals actually like foliar feeding, but will the fertilizer harm the leaves of other orchids? (again, dilute fertilizer)

If the mister attaches to a hose fitting, in which case I'd imagine you leave the hose on, is there some kind of feeder that can be attached, to modulate fertilizer levels?

Also, I imagine you could use slow release fertilizer as well. On that note, are the slow release beads suitable for moss as well as chips and other particle substrates? Can or should I use the slow release along with liquid fertilizer, and if so at the full dosage of the slow release?

Oh one last question... of course I would think you water the orchids with chips more often than the moss, with the sprinklers. So do you separate chips from moss orchids, and use two different sprinkler systems on different schedule?

On that note, with respect to moss vs bark, I am wondering if Orchids will grow faster in bark chips. Am I right to speculate you might keep all of yours in bark & other particle, that is, since you suggest watering once or more daily? And if so, why bark vs moss? Is this for faster growth? I know that with Bonsai, a quicker drying, loose mix with more frequesnt watering does lead to faster growth; does this translate to Orchids?

Roberta · #4 03-28-2023, 01:35 AM

The misters are just low-flow nozzles on 1/4 inch tubing, that run like the rest of the sprinklers. So it isn't a system. With only 50 plants, a full system is really over-kill. These misters came with the house, so I just incorporated them into the plan, use them for the mounted plants. I could do just as well with a hose with a few plants. The misters only run for about 2 minutes a day.

If you want to use mist rather than "drench" just get a hose nozzle with different settings (Home Depot). But I think that for your situation, no need to do anything except regular watering.

I have my plants grouped mostly by their light requirement - shade lovers together, sun lovers together in a different area. So in the various areas, everything gets watered the same. (I have different sprinkler lines for different areas, because my yard is big) Since different plants have different watering needs, I make the adjustment with choice of medium. For example, in the "sun" area, I have Cymbidiums that need to stay damp and Laelia anceps that need to dry out rapidly. How to keep both groups happy? The Cymbidiums are in small bark in plastic pots so they tend to stay damp. The L. anceps hanging above them are in baskets with little or no media (maybe some large bark), or mounted. So with the same watering, they're dry in 2-3 hours. In the shady area (my patio) I have mounted plants (which dry out), plants in baskets with moss (stay damp but lots of air), and plants in pots with either moss or small bark depending on need. So... again, the whole area gets the same watering, the needs of the individual plants get managed by choice of medium. Small bark stays more damp, large bark dries faster. Plastic pots stay wetter than clay pots, baskets dry even faster.
(The "clay pots" are unglazed terracotta, the cheapest)

I fertilize manually, about once every week or two (or three). Orchids don't need much fertilizer. For that, for years I used a 2-gallon pump sprayer. Recently, I got a battery-powered sprayer because it was getting too hard for me to carry that sprayer all over my yard. (getting older). The only plants where I use time-release fertilizer are Cymbidiums and Catasetinae - both grow rather fast and need more fertilizer than the "gentle squirt" that everything else gets. So I don't try to combine watering and fertilizing.

As far as growth rate is concerned, it's different for different types. If general care is good, they'll all grow at the rate that is right for the type of orchid. A Den. speciosum may take 10-15 years from seedling to blooming size. A Catasetum produces new pseudobulbs, roots and leaves every year. (In spring you can almost WATCH them grow)

Watering frequency changes with the temperature and seasons - i winter I may water the Cattleyas every 3 days, the Cymbidiums and main patio area every 2 days, the mounted plants once a day. In summer, maybe every 2 days for the Cattleyas and daily for most of the rest. (And of course special handling for the Catasetums, no water at all in winter, heavy watering during the growing season of spring and summer) With all the rain we have been having, I mostly let Mother Nature take care of the watering.

HiOrcDen · #5 03-28-2023, 01:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roberta

The misters are just low-flow nozzles on 1/4 inch tubing, that run like the rest of the sprinklers. So it isn't a system. With only 50 plants, a full system is really over-kill. These misters came with the house, so I just incorporated them into the plan, use them for the mounted plants. I could do just as well with a hose with a few plants. The misters only run for about 2 minutes a day.

If you want to use mist rather than "drench" just get a hose nozzle with different settings (Home Depot). But I think that for your situation, no need to do anything except regular watering.

Thank you again. Please clarify a bit about the 1/4 inch tubing? So it is tubing that screws to the end of the hose? Then where are the nozzles that actually spray the water? Do they attach along the 1/4 inch tubing? If it is not terribly inconvenient, would you happen to recall the name of what you use, model/brand? I mean, what the accessory is called, that came with your hose.

Also, in general when watering, is there any harm in getting fertilizer on the orchids leaves? I ask, because of course it is faster to water by spraying all over the plants, than watering each individually to avoid getting fertilizer on the leaves.

Ray · #6 03-28-2023, 07:55 AM

Orchids, in general, are not particularly good about foliar feeding. Here’s a few things to consider:

As part of their water-retention strategy, many orchids develop a thick, waxy cuticle layer on the leaves, intended to slow water loss. That barrier also reduces uptake. Phalaenopsis have a particularly thick cutex.
Younger plants that have not yet developed that thick cutex wil take up nutrients more readily than will more mature plants.
The foliar absorption pathways are areas of plasmodesmata that tend to be physically associated with stomata. Orchids concentrate their stomata on the undersides of leaves, another evolutionary strategy to slow water loss.
Foliar uptake of nitrogen from urea is favored. Uptake of nitrates and ammonium compounds is not. Most orchid fertilizers contain the latter chemistry. The converse it true of the root system.

Roberta · #7 03-28-2023, 12:37 PM

Go to the "irrigation" section of your favorite big-box home improvement store (like Home Depot or Lowers) There will be a whole bunch of low-flow emitters (sprayers, misters, etc, in various configurations). There are adaptors that attach to hose fittings or pvc pipe fittings. That is also where you can get timers, sprinkler valves and "manifolds" that permit one to attach more than one thing to a hose bib (2 or 4). (the last may be in the "hose" section rather than where the irrigation parts are) If you can find a knowledgeable salesperson to help you, you can learn a LOT. If you know WHAT you want to do, they can help you with the HOW.

Fertilizer on leaves just leaves a residue, but it also mostly washes off with the next watering, and ends up in the medium. I just give everything a bath with the sprayer wand, knowing that what doesn't get to the roots right away, will get there eventually. I have 'way too many plants to fertilize "surgically".

estación seca · #8 03-28-2023, 12:51 PM

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Dimples · #9 03-28-2023, 05:13 PM

Dig and Rainbird are going to be two common brands at big box stores in Southern California. They’re both good quality and the microsprayers should last at least a few years.
Hunter is my preferred irrigation brand, I’ve found their products last longer and are easier to work with for me but they’re all very similar. In San Diego, Hunter products are commonly available at stores that cater to irrigation/landscaping specialists.

Also good to remember that anything that’s designed to produce a fine mist will have very small holes and they can clog in 1-2 years or less from hard water. Occasionally cleaning them with vinegar will help keep the ports open.