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  #11  
Old 10-07-2022, 01:00 PM
Relemitty Relemitty is offline
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PSA: now is the time to prepare for the season change Male
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Hi ES.
I lived in Phoenix 1997 to 2010 and loved how tropical plants grew outside as long as you gave them tons of water. I had Hibiscus growing as shrubs and blooming all summer.

Here in Oklahoma, everything tropical has to be in pots and brought in from end of October to March.
My hibiscus is in a plastic pot and I think the roots get too hot.
We had 26 days with temps over 100 F this summer which is unusual and IF I forgot to water every day the hibiscus would let me know by getting droopy leaves.

Since I am about to bring it in for the winter, I am going to repot in a terra cotta pot and look at some more moisture retentive soil.
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  #12  
Old 10-10-2022, 11:34 AM
c123anderson c123anderson is offline
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Default Wintering in the USA 7a Question

Thank you for this PSA for us Northern Hemis.

A quick search has not given me an answer, so I’m posting my question here, but please redirect the question if it’s been addressed.

I have read some miscellaneous advice about heat germination maps to help winter plants. Thoughts?

My setup is pretty novice: west-facing filtered glass window in my large master bath with fairly good airflow. Temps remain fairly steady as our indoor environment. Being near the window, though, I’m concerned that outside temps may make area slightly cooler.

My previous winter experience was ignore and everything was “fine” (forced a spike and propagation) with my hardy Phalaenopsis. Collection has grown dramatically, though, so I think the concerns are valid.

Previous (long ago) experience was using a grow light during winter. We are far enough north that our days are very long in summer (16-18 hours) and much short in winter (7-8 hours). I’m suspecting a grow light may help maintain some temps, too, but I’d love to get others’ opinions and thoughts on what works/doesn’t work.

And, while I’m here: I have some hand-me-down dendrobiums. Thoughts on reporting now? At least 1 looks “rough” (not sure if it’s dead!)
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  #13  
Old 10-10-2022, 03:19 PM
MCD MCD is offline
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PSA: now is the time to prepare for the season change
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c123anderson View Post
Previous (long ago) experience was using a grow light during winter. We are far enough north that our days are very long in summer (16-18 hours) and much short in winter (7-8 hours). I’m suspecting a grow light may help maintain some temps, too, but I’d love to get others’ opinions and thoughts on what works/doesn’t work.
Your situation (and climate) sounds pretty similar to mine; I had mainly noid/hybrid phals in the past and never did anything special in the winter, other than avoiding window sills because of the baseboards. Not much growth, but reliable blooms from late fall into spring/summer.

This year I have added many Phal species, primary hybrids and (species x primary), and I've setup a new cabinet with LED lights, programmed for 12h/day. Too early to know how things will go over winter, but with this particular setup, the cabinet stays about 5C/10F warmer than the room when the lights are on. The glass shelves that have lights under them also get warm, so the pots above get something similar to a seedling heat mat effect. I don't plan or want to add any humidity, but keeping an eye out to see if I'll need to do something for ventilation (fan, or keeping the doors open/ajar, etc.).
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  #14  
Old 10-10-2022, 03:47 PM
c123anderson c123anderson is offline
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Originally Posted by MCD View Post
The glass shelves that have lights under them also get warm, so the pots above get something similar to a seedling heat mat effect. I don't plan or want to add any humidity, but keeping an eye out to see if I'll need to do something for ventilation (fan, or keeping the doors open/ajar, etc.).
Hi MCD, I like the cabinet idea. Some of my recent acquisitions are seedlings, so I am unsure how tolerate they will be of temp fluctuations. Your idea of the glass shelves could be good for a heat mat effect, too. My plants are on wire racks for ventilation.

My climate is drier, so I have to be conscious of humidity, which is why my plants live in the master bathroom.

In college I had a watering tray and a grow light, and my dendrobium seemed to thrive in that condition (worst winter recorded in the area, too).

I guess I'm just wondering the value of heating from below versus the ambient heat from the light above. We do get a little drier in the winter, too, so I have humidity monitors to make sure the humidity levels don't drop too low.

Really it is just the thought that adding too much "stuff" and making too many adjustments will actually do more harm than good. If they're happy now, should I make larger changes or smaller tweaks?
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  #15  
Old 10-10-2022, 05:52 PM
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tmoney tmoney is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c123anderson View Post
Thank you for this PSA for us Northern Hemis.

A quick search has not given me an answer, so I’m posting my question here, but please redirect the question if it’s been addressed.

I have read some miscellaneous advice about heat germination maps to help winter plants. Thoughts?

My setup is pretty novice: west-facing filtered glass window in my large master bath with fairly good airflow. Temps remain fairly steady as our indoor environment. Being near the window, though, I’m concerned that outside temps may make area slightly cooler.

My previous winter experience was ignore and everything was “fine” (forced a spike and propagation) with my hardy Phalaenopsis. Collection has grown dramatically, though, so I think the concerns are valid.

Previous (long ago) experience was using a grow light during winter. We are far enough north that our days are very long in summer (16-18 hours) and much short in winter (7-8 hours). I’m suspecting a grow light may help maintain some temps, too, but I’d love to get others’ opinions and thoughts on what works/doesn’t work.

And, while I’m here: I have some hand-me-down dendrobiums. Thoughts on reporting now? At least 1 looks “rough” (not sure if it’s dead!)
howdy,

well, take my advice wortha grain, but we don’t do anything special for winter, other than bag tenting some seedlings and turning on the heat an hour before watering. we try real hard not to use anything extra with lights and all that.

as for the dendrobiums, there are different kinds, and we only have a couple. the outdoor ones we just left outside last year and they have done great. i wouldn’t repot them now, even tho ours looked like a crazy monster when we got it last fall. the keikis all did great when split off in march. it’s a hybrid. our dendro nobile type noid came inside about a week ago and is about to flower.

the only special things we do is try to wash dusty leaves to maximize light intake during the dark months, and move everything closer to the windows

Last edited by tmoney; 10-10-2022 at 05:55 PM..
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  #16  
Old 10-10-2022, 06:10 PM
c123anderson c123anderson is offline
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Originally Posted by tmoney View Post
as for the dendrobiums, there are different kinds, and we only have a couple. the outdoor ones we just left outside last year and they have done great. i wouldn’t repot them now, even tho ours looked like a crazy monster when we got it last fall. the keikis all did great when split off in march. it’s a hybrid. our dendro nobile type noid came inside about a week ago and is about to flower.


Wow! I couldn't imagine dendrobiums outside where I'm at (Washington state, USA). With our snow .... so you being in Dusseldorf, just didn't think that would work. Hmmm.

I assume by "a crazy monster" you meant that the roots were overgrown. I'm not seeing a lot of roots above surface on my den. spectabile; just a long root or two below.

I still don't think you're a noob -- or an absolute noob. Thanks, again, for your thoughts!
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  #17  
Old 10-10-2022, 06:38 PM
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Roberta Roberta is offline
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Originally Posted by c123anderson View Post


Wow! I couldn't imagine dendrobiums outside where I'm at (Washington state, USA). With our snow .... so you being in Dusseldorf, just didn't think that would work. Hmmm.

I assume by "a crazy monster" you meant that the roots were overgrown. I'm not seeing a lot of roots above surface on my den. spectabile; just a long root or two below.

I still don't think you're a noob -- or an absolute noob. Thanks, again, for your thoughts!
Now, there are Dendobium and then there are Dendrobiums. It's a huge and varied genus. So the ones from tropical latitudes at low elevations need warmth all year, and typically need to be watered and fertilized all year. But there are LOTS of Dendroibium species that come from the Himalayan foothills or high elevations in southeast Asia, or from northern Japan or Taiwan, that need a cold jolt to bloom. If very cold, dry is also helpful in getting them through the winter. Some of them will tolerate frost and even light snow. So when you say "Dendrobium" it's important to be specific. And investigate the species, or the parents of the hybrids, to learn what each "expects.

I am reminded of a story told by Fred Clarke of Sunset Valley Orchids. He had a Den. falcorostrum (in the same group as Den speciosum and Den kingianum). He had been pampering it in his greenhouse where it was starting to get quite large, but year after year nary a flower. He finally decided, "kill or cure" and put it outside. It doesn't usually get down to freezing at the nursery location, but winter nights get into the mid- to high- 30's F fairly often, and may occasionally get to freezing for a few hours. Behold, it bloomed beautifully the next spring. Do that to a Den spectabile or one of the Den-phal types or the antelope type and you'll kill it. But the ones that originate in temperate areas with seasons, expect and need the chill.
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  #18  
Old 10-10-2022, 07:06 PM
c123anderson c123anderson is offline
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Now, there are Dendobium and then there are Dendrobiums.
And my ignorance and inexperience shows!

I think my success with past and present dendrobiums happened more with luck than with talent.

So if I put out a dendrobium (assuming it would tolerate the changes, etc.), what about pests? Do you treat before and during, or treat afterwards?
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  #19  
Old 10-10-2022, 07:28 PM
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Nobody is born knowing this stuff! That's one of the neat things about orchids, there's a lifetime of learning.

Since I live in a lovely temperate climate (mostly frost free but cool winters and warm summers) I am able to grow most of my orchids outside. I really don't have much problem with pests... probably due both to excellent air movement from breeze almost every afternoon, relatively dry, lots of garden plants for them to munch on.

For your situation, where you need to bring things inside in winter, read the advice of the many Board members in the same situation. I suspect that you'll want to check for pests before you bring things in... you don't want them in the house! And in an enclosed area you have to stay vigilant because nasties that do get in can spread a lot more easily than they do outside.
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  #20  
Old 10-11-2022, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by c123anderson View Post
And my ignorance and inexperience shows!

I think my success with past and present dendrobiums happened more with luck than with talent.

So if I put out a dendrobium (assuming it would tolerate the changes, etc.), what about pests? Do you treat before and during, or treat afterwards?

fo sho! hence, part of my PSA

yes, all my ficus trees come in and other plants as well, they go into our bedroom for quarantine, but after they take a shower with me. literally. i take them into the shower (mild, warm water) and spray liberally with a mild soap solution. i let the soap wash down into the medium and then just let water run thru for quite awhile till the runoff is clear and i don’t see suds on the media surface. and a major looking thru all foliage for klingons. this gets repeated a couple times and the whole process takes a couple weeks. then they stay in quarantine till i feel satisfied they are pest free.

obvs, the girl thinks im a little off my rocker.
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