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  #21  
Old 12-01-2021, 08:36 AM
Shadeflower Shadeflower is offline
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I know every year there are different theories on what makes phals bloom and it always seems to end up back at temperatures.

Temperatures do not affect phals flowering!

In fact giving it 12 hours of light in winter might work on warm growing phals but only because the plants have been tricked into thinking it is spring.

If it works consistently every year then that is great but not if it's just a one off method that tricks and then stresses the orchid because it isn't actually spring.

So why does it always revolve around temperatures?

Because there is a very simple reason. Nurseries do use temps to control flowering in phals.

They don't use temps to trigger flowering, they use temps to delay flowering till it is the right time and then they reduce temps thus no longer inhibiting flowering (If I remember constant day night temps above 26 degrees inhibits flowering)

So once the right time comes the temps are lowered and the phals flower.

This does not mean they were initiated to flower by lowering temps and doing so in the home would not have the same effect unless you were growing your orchid in very hot conditions.

My phals are triggered by day light hours regardless how warm or cold they are - as long as they are kept below 24 degrees which is no issue here in the UK

Does that mean all phals will consistently rebloom as long as temps are not inhibiting flowering?
Not necessarily, it does depend on their care and the light they receive but if cared for perfectly with enough light then yes they would rebloom every year even at a warmer 22 degrees C

link to the very good article camille once showed us:

https://www.floricultura.com/media/3...-2016-2_en.pdf

edit: The picture looks really promising. I woudn't expect any flowers this year but if the same care is kept up it should be strong enough by autumn next year.

Last edited by Shadeflower; 12-01-2021 at 04:53 PM..
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  #22  
Old 12-01-2021, 06:24 PM
Uh oh now addicted Uh oh now addicted is offline
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Thank you all for your advice. I honestly am really pleased this orchid is happy. But after watching it grow new leaves and roots over this year I was hoping for a flower spike - but more leaves and roots is also good!

I think maybe I confused it? We didn't have a long sunny summer, and September and October were quite gloomy here. Possibly when I put the grow lights on I made it think it was spring? I don't know!

Whatever the reason this one doesn't want to spike, all the orchids are looking great with the lights on and everything else - most are growing new roots or leaves or both, which I'm really happy with as most of them were rescues so I expected them to take this year off!

Thank you everyone for your advice, it really has helped. I'll update if anything exciting happens!

Last edited by Uh oh now addicted; 12-01-2021 at 06:43 PM..
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  #23  
Old 12-01-2021, 10:06 PM
Shadeflower Shadeflower is offline
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sorry I made it sound worse than I meant it to. I have heard lots provide 12 hours of light throughout winter and that isn't a bad thing for phals, in summer light hours actually increase to 14, even 16 hours per day.
Increasing the light most certainly helps in gloomy winter conditions. I for example add 6 hours of quite strong light to supplement some of my phals.
Just keep up the light and the plant will think it is receiving one really long summer and should have enough energy stored up.
I don't know if it helps but that is how I view my orchids, like little factories constantly building new cells and storing energy. In order to build the cells it needs light, air, water and nutrients. If the rootzone stays too wet then the roots won't be able to exchange gases as well, if light is too low, not enough energy will be received, if you forget to water then the plant starts losing energy, if it is lacking in certain nutrients then growth can be affected just like if a car factory didn't get a delivery of car seats on time. It doesn't matter if it gets additional doors, without the seats the production line gets held up.
Anyway good luck with yours. They do require some patience but that is why I just bought lots more lol. That way instead of waiting 1 year for the next flower spike there is always something going on... Not that I am trying to fuel your addiction or anything.
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  #24  
Old 12-02-2021, 09:52 AM
Uh oh now addicted Uh oh now addicted is offline
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I don't need any help with that - since I wrote this post originally I've got another 4 for exactly that reason... but they're very small, so my argument is that they only take up the space of 1 big one...
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  #25  
Old 12-16-2021, 05:45 PM
Uh oh now addicted Uh oh now addicted is offline
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I don't want to celebrate too early... but... is this what I hope it is????
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  #26  
Old 12-16-2021, 05:48 PM
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If you get as happy over new roots as I do, you're in luck. Healthy roots lead to a healthy plant which leads to healthy blooms. But I'm pretty sure you're looking at roots.
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  #27  
Old 12-16-2021, 05:58 PM
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Noooo!

I mean - yay it's happy and everything (getting sick of saying that...)

I know the one on the left is a new root (the 4th one...) but this one on the right looks different - sort of thin and narrow pointy? The other roots all looked round and like a swelling bump.
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  #28  
Old 12-16-2021, 05:59 PM
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Orchids teach patience... keep us posted.
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  #29  
Old 12-16-2021, 07:06 PM
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it's too blurry to identify properly, but I am leaning towards flower spike.
A root looks more like a baby's dummy. Symmetrical. That has a bit of a fan shape going on. It's too blurry but I'd tip on flower spike over root.

The location, directly below the leaf speaks for flower spike and now that I looked properly we can actually see a root tip growing right below it to compare and it looks vastly different so I will still say a flower spike (or a possible keiki)

Last edited by Shadeflower; 12-16-2021 at 07:13 PM..
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  #30  
Old 12-16-2021, 07:15 PM
Mr.Fakename Mr.Fakename is offline
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I agree, looks like an early spike!
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