Possible sign of salt burn on Phal?

[Nicolasdperez]

Originally Posted by Ray

The texture of the leaves may suggest your water is quite hard. Maybe what you’re seeing isn’t fertilizer salts, but excess dissolved minerals in the water.

The hardness of the water for my city ranges around 137-211 according to the water district reports. I know some growers say <145 ppm is ideal; so should I just flush my pots more often?

[estación seca]

I think your water is fine for Phals. Watering frequency depends on how fast the water evaporates from the pot and is taken up by the plant. Variables include medium particle size/ air space between particles; plant size, growth rate and type; ambient temperatures, and relative humidity. If you note the weight of the plant right after you water it and the weight when it's dry you can check dryness by lifting the pot.

[Nicolasdperez]

Update:

The leaf is now yellowing where it was wrinkled. I have flushed twice with distilled water and have not fertilized since I have made the original post. It is in flower, has a new leaf forming, and none of the other leafs seem to have the same issue. Should I do anything? I want to make sure this doesn’t happen to the other leafs. Thank you for your time.

[Roberta]

The other leave look fine. That leaf may just be on the way out - whatever damaged it, very likely, was local. If it was heat damage of some weeks ago (very possible based on observations when you originally posted) it can take some time but that leaf will probably drop off. The new leaf looks good, as do the other leaves.

[Nicolasdperez]

I have flushed every watering since and let it stay dry for about 1 day in between waterings. However, the condition seems to worsen as a leaf on the bottom is now showing signs of yellowing (poor lighting but it looks much more like overwatering as opposed to salt burn). Should I just repot it in well draining medium in a clear pot with slits? I think it may need better aeration and I do not want to lose this little Phal.

[Nicolasdperez]

P.s.

Also the medium just looks really damp as I watered this morning. It has been about 8 days since I last watered. The pot felt light and registered as a 1 or “dry” on my moisture meter before I watered again.

[Roberta]

What is your potting medium? If it is 8 days and still wet, the mix is likely bad, smothering the roots. You need a well-draining mix so that the roots get air.

[Ray]

Moisture meters are pretty much worthless in orchid media. Don’t rely on it.

[SouthPark]

I agree about the media. Loose moss of can create a sludgy root drowning condition. It might be a good idea to check the roots - just in case.

Also take a close look at the leaves to make sure there are no attacking insects --- and/or tiny mites.

With the pics ------ if possible - try for 1024 x 768 pixel images --- which is maybe around the maximum that orchidboard allows.

[Nicolasdperez]

Originally Posted by Roberta

What is your potting medium? If it is 8 days and still wet, the mix is likely bad, smothering the roots. You need a well-draining mix so that the roots get air.

My media is moss. Yes, that’s what I was thinking. I have previously read that when the pot is wet for more than a week it is problematic. I am going to repot it in the charcoal I made earlier.

---------- Post added at 07:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:11 PM ----------

Originally Posted by Ray

Moisture meters are pretty much worthless in orchid media. Don’t rely on it.

I have had similar experiences. However, I have found that it can be pretty reliable in moss given that there are not a lot of air pockets or other forms of medium. I do know that using it on charcoal, leca, bark, or anything with lots of air pockets is pointless though.