The correct name is Neomoorea irrorata. The plant was first named Lueddemannia irrorata, and later moved first to Moorea then Neomoorea. It picked up the name wallisii when it was moved to Neomoorea but that was a mistake; it retains the first specific name given.
IOSPE says:
low-elevation, hot-growing plant;
wet year-round with even fertilizing all year;
hot to cool temperatures;
should be kept moist through the growth phase and less after the growths have matured.
Other sources show it as an intermediate, mid-elevation grower. These pages are no longer available at their original locations, but can be found at archive.org:
Neomoorea wallisii
Ionopsis: Krum Z. Sotirov
Read all these pages. I'm only summarizing them:
Hot-growing;
Intermediate temperatures;
Moderately bright light;
Maximum sunlight short of leaf burn;
Medium light;
Wet year round;
Somewhat moist mix, drier in the winter;
Damp but not wet, lots of water and organic fertiliser while in active growth and a dry winter;
Regular water and fertilizer in the summer;
Brief, cooler, dry and shady period in the winter;
New growths appear in autumn, but do not develop until the warmth of summer;
Ensure minimal disturbance of the plant.
Years ago somebody told me it should be able to grow well in my summer heat. It died when it got into temperatures over about 110 F / 43C. I decided not to try it again until I had a cooler growing space.
The plant I have now came from Ecuagenera in July 2020. It seems to have done well with lows on winter nights around 55 F / 12C and summer days up to 85 F / 30C, occasionally higher.
I read they don't like to be repotted. I have it in a wide, shallow terra cotta dish with small- to medium-sized pumice as the medium. This is so it has room to grow and doesn't need to be repotted too often. It gets watered thoroughly every morning with an automatic sprayer on a timer. Pumice doesn't break down, retains some moisture yet allows air at the roots. I chose that over LECA because this container with LECA would dry down to quite some depth each day in my heat, despite daily watering.
During a few days this summer when my automatic watering failed and it headed towards dry some of the leaves wilted and died.
The photo shows the pseudobulbs, not the leaves. They are about half the size of hen's eggs. The yellowing to brown leaf is from an old growth. So far it has not broken more than one growth at a time. I think I need to fertilize it more. It is slower growing than most of my other orchids. Now that I reread the above articles, I probably should fertilize it a lot more.
By the way, there were a lot of excellent articles written by Schmidt-Ostrander on the Canadian Orchid Congress Web site. They are no longer there, but you can find them on archive.org:
Articles on Orchids