Roberta, thank you so much - this is exactly the explanation I was looking for! What you described is what's happening with my phals - about a half of the roots within each pot are growing actively, while the other half (the older ones) are firm and still turn silvery, just do not have green "active" tips. There is no rot, softness or anything like that. But because I've overwatered and had fungal problems before, I was concerned that half and half was meaning that there were still fungus problems lingering somewhere - just my paranoia, I suppose ))

And your comment on the sympoidals with thinner roots is also much appreciated. I was just thinking about my den. nobile today - the plant is starting a new growth cycle, the old roots are white and firm, turning green once they are watered, but, obviously, not active after the rest period. And I was wondering in what condition other growers' den's roots end up after the winter rest (if the plants get one). So, you gave me the answer before I asked the question!!!!! :biggrin:

Deciduous Dens like the Den nobile group are even more extreme in favoring the new growth and roots over the old. The old canes are the reserve. In spring, the prior year's canes (with or without leaves) are the ones that are likely to bloom. But the older canes provide the energy both for the blooming and the new growth. Of course, none beat Catasetinae for reinventing themselves each year. Year old roots are still somewhat useful, older than that they're mostly dead. It stores up its energy in the old, leafless pseudobulbs, and goes from nothing to a full grown plant in the summer, then repeats the process.

Roberta, I think you've covered the questions. I will also just agree, roots are not always in active growth.
It's not necessarily anything to worry about.

Obviously lots of growing roots is better but orchids are not always in active root growing mode, they can stop growing roots for months at a time too. Phals generally less so but phals experience long transport stress in my experience.
So first year expect a phal to adapt to its new home.
Second year expect lots of new roots. Third year expect increased growth and flowering.

Now if things progress at a faster pace that is awesome but from my experience phals take a long time to recover from any form of stress and that is the time frame that is average for phals I'd say. At least some active root tips is always a good sign and in a warmer climate than mine phals will grow faster.

Also worth noting is that I never worry about what the end of a root looks like. The worst case is it goes mushy and needs to be removed but orchids seem very adept at discarding a non-functioning root so even if the orchid loses a root here or there it usually does not affect the orchid and it just grows fresh new ones. So a black root tip is nothing to worry about in my opinion and happens all the time compared to for example a black spot developing on the leaves which is always more concerning.

Excellent comments shade. I will add that - for some growers (including me) that use opaque pots, we aren't even able to see what the roots are doing (or how they're doing) inside the pot. Visual indicators.

But definitely can get a sense of how the orchid is going by looking at the leaves, and bulb etc ----- the health of it.

Dear Roberta, Shadeflower, thank you so much! I now feel much better about my plants - as well as more equipped for further observations ))) It really helps to know how things actually work - from people with experience!

Dear SouthPark, what you are referring to is Mastery to me!! I am still so early in my orchid adventures that just the thought of not being able to see inside the pot plunges me into panic mode )))))))))))))))) But I am certainly very hopeful that one day I will be able to "eye" things even without clear pots ))