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  #1  
Old 07-21-2021, 10:39 PM
Nicolasdperez Nicolasdperez is offline
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Yesterday I repotted a Cattleya with new growth; however I am unsure if I may need a bigger pot to facilitate the new growth. As you can see in the picture, the growth forms in a line and the new growth is hovering over the side. It had a really robust root system and this was about as much space I could make for the new growth; Will this suffice? Thank you for your time
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  #2  
Old 07-21-2021, 10:47 PM
SouthPark SouthPark is offline
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The pot size is just fine from what can be seen. Just got to watch it with the sphagnum. In general - firmly-packed sphagnum (but not so firm as to destroy or crush all the roots) can wick water around fairly evenly. But loose sphagnum can build up watery sections and has more of a chance in root drowning.

For catts that don't have roots that are adapted to watery conditions (starting from a young root age) ------ it is probably not uncommon to see mature roots not make it --- in loose wet sphagnum that is. Some growers may report success ------ depending on the growing environment. But good to mention anyway.
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  #3  
Old 07-21-2021, 10:55 PM
Nicolasdperez Nicolasdperez is offline
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I was considering putting this one in bark (like my other cattleyas) until I saw how robustly the roots had grown in moss. I believe it might be put outdoors eventually so that should help prevent it from being waterlogged, but until then I will keep watch. Thank you for all of your help
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Old 07-22-2021, 12:01 AM
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I would use a pot that would permit the current and one future growth to develop fully inside the pot, not hanging out.

Sphagnum is good in low-humidity areas if youn learn to water differently. Start by rapidly running water just over the top, not soaking it. The water distributes evenly, leaving the moss just damp. Repeat when the top of the moss is crisp-dry.
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Old 07-22-2021, 12:36 AM
Paphman910 Paphman910 is offline
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You should have repotted in a wider diameter pot to allow 2 years growth. Sphagnum moss is fine but I generally put a layer of lava rock at the bottom of the pot, then fill with large bark and then top dress it with moss.
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Old 07-31-2021, 11:05 PM
Nicolasdperez Nicolasdperez is offline
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this better?
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Old 07-31-2021, 11:27 PM
SouthPark SouthPark is offline
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Nicolas ------ looks ok! But just checking to see if your new pot has enough drainage holes - for nice drainage.

Not every growing area requires good drainage ----- but if good drainage is beneficial for your area, then just check on that.

Also - is that a clay/ceramic pot? If the roots grow so much in the pot ----- then, in the future, it's possible growers can have a hard time getting the orchid back out ----- without damage the pot that is. But if you're ok with that, and if the drainage is good. Then ok.

Also - check the bark. If it is super dry, then the bark needs to be adequately wetted in advance. Otherwise watering dry bark will be like water running off a duck's back ----- straight through the pot (for good drainage pots) ------ and orchids can dehydrate if that happens.
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Old 08-01-2021, 12:09 AM
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I can't tell the position of the plant - you want to put the old part of the plant directly against one side of the pot, with the new growth having as much room as possible in front of it. There will be no growth from the old part, so you don't need to leave it any room. The downside of using a decorative pot is that when it is ready to repot in two or three years, you may have to destroy the pot to get it out. (Always better to destroy the pot than to damage roots if you have to choose)
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  #9  
Old 08-01-2021, 01:08 AM
Nicolasdperez Nicolasdperez is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthPark View Post
The pot size is just fine from what can be seen. Just got to watch it with the sphagnum. In general - firmly-packed sphagnum (but not so firm as to destroy or crush all the roots) can wick water around fairly evenly. But loose sphagnum can build up watery sections and has more of a chance in root drowning.

For catts that don't have roots that are adapted to watery conditions (starting from a young root age) ------ it is probably not uncommon to see mature roots not make it --- in loose wet sphagnum that is. Some growers may report success ------ depending on the growing environment. But good to mention anyway.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthPark View Post
Nicolas ------ looks ok! But just checking to see if your new pot has enough drainage holes - for nice drainage.

Not every growing area requires good drainage ----- but if good drainage is beneficial for your area, then just check on that.

Also - is that a clay/ceramic pot? If the roots grow so much in the pot ----- then, in the future, it's possible growers can have a hard time getting the orchid back out ----- without damage the pot that is. But if you're ok with that, and if the drainage is good. Then ok.

Also - check the bark. If it is super dry, then the bark needs to be adequately wetted in advance. Otherwise watering dry bark will be like water running off a duck's back ----- straight through the pot (for good drainage pots) ------ and orchids can dehydrate if that happens.
Yes, my pot happens to have drainage holes. I do not mind breaking this pot at all too so I guess all is well My bark is still dry and I have not pre wet it; Should I soak the orchid in the sink so that way the bark will be able adequately uptake water in the future? Thank you for all of your help.

---------- Post added at 09:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:03 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roberta View Post
I can't tell the position of the plant - you want to put the old part of the plant directly against one side of the pot, with the new growth having as much room as possible in front of it. There will be no growth from the old part, so you don't need to leave it any room. The downside of using a decorative pot is that when it is ready to repot in two or three years, you may have to destroy the pot to get it out. (Always better to destroy the pot than to damage roots if you have to choose)
I made sure to put the old growth as close to one side of the pot as possible, allowing room for new growth. Thank you for all of your help once again.

---------- Post added at 09:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:05 PM ----------

Also, the main root system was tightly wound around some sphagnum moss which I did not bother to touch. Should I water a couple of days after the bark dries in order to make sure no rotting occurs where there is moss? Or will it not really make a difference since most of the moss was packed with roots?
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  #10  
Old 08-01-2021, 01:51 AM
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I would not worry too much about that moss caught in the middle. The roots of the old part of the plant (which likely are the ones tied up with the moss) will eventually die anyway, and the new roots won't be in there, they will be in the "good part" with bark. So basically, nurture the new growth and don't worry about the old.
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